Deck install Q's

Post all your Nissan electronics, car audio and stereo questions here!
cyyoung2000
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Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 2:47 pm
Car: 91' Q

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I've searched and I couldn't really find exactly what I needed. I jus need to know what I need to install a new deck for the 91 Q w/ the stock Bose system. Like adapters, harnesses, kits...etc...I know each speaker has its own little amp so im not sure how thatll work out. Can't really afford great speakers so I'm jus wanna keep them stock for now. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!

If I were to install speakers in the front, is it possible to keep the stock speakers in the back? just wondering.....

Modified by cyyoung2000 at 8:23 PM 2/18/2007
Modified by cyyoung2000 at 8:24 PM 2/18/2007


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PoorManQ45
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I'll recommend new speakers

A new deck will give you more features, but wont affect sound quality.

Please change the speakers. Heck, It'll only cost a minimum of $100 for all the speakers.

carcrazyguy
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 2:39 pm
Car: 89 240SX SE, 94 300ZX, 94 Q45

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PoorManQ45 wrote:I'll recommend new speakers

A new deck will give you more features, but wont affect sound quality.

Please change the speakers. Heck, It'll only cost a minimum of $100 for all the speakers.
Why would you recommend this? cyyoung, simply buy a system adapter, plug it in, and be done with it. These are usually $30-40 at retail, I sell them for $20, and you can likely find them used for that or maybe even less. You will also need a pocket below the radio or something to fill the extra din slot...which is no big deal. A lot of my customers put the rare Nissan in-dash cell phones in the lower pocket for looks...which is why I keep a few around...or you can simply order the Nissan 300ZX / 240 pocket for about $25 from the dealer, or $15 used.Then, your car's harnesses will stay intact, and you can then still keep your Bose speakers and amps, which absolutely will sound better than $100 worth of off-the-shelf speakers hacked into your previously unmolested car.Lets not forget that your time is worth something too, and on top of that, nothing (door panels, etc.) will ever be as virgin tight once you start pulling panels, etc.However, when the time comes that you have Bose amp failure, then you will possibly want to change speakers...but until then there is little motivation to do so.

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PoorManQ45
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carcrazyguy wrote:
Then, your car's harnesses will stay intact, and you can then still keep your Bose speakers and amps, which absolutely will sound better than $100 worth of off-the-shelf speakers hacked into your previously unmolested car.
Incorrect. I'll recommend the Roadmaster 6.5" speakers for the front and 6x9s for the back. You can get a pair of each at walmart for $20.

I used these before. They sound amazing for what they are! You lose a little bass, but you make up for it in spades when it comes to midrange and highs.

Hell, you don't even need a different amp. The bose amps will work fine with they speakers.
carcrazyguy wrote:Lets not forget that your time is worth something too, and on top of that, nothing (door panels, etc.) will ever be as virgin tight once you start pulling panels, etc.
Just so you know, I can cleanly have the rear deck off in under 5 minutes. The doors in a little over 5 minutes.

This means no damage!

Also, when I reinstall panels they look EXACTLY or even better then they did from the factory. The secret is to use either spray adhesive of clear silicon/liquid nails(clear) when needed.

Don't discourage this person from actually improving the sound quality

carcrazyguy
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Is that a joke or are you serious? If so, I apologize for the following in advance, as I may have read it wrong. But if not:

So you obviously don't like the sound of Bose. Yes, it is a little "warm" for some listeners that are used to bright car audio, and I am not saying that a better system cannot be built...but seriously..."improving the sound with Roadmasters"? WTF X 10

The front drivers in the Q45 are the exact same drivers in $1500 Bose 901's. Also, the enclosures are tuned and ported for the drivers to exacting specs, as well as the amplifiers being tuned in the pre-amp stage exactly for the acoustics of the car and naturally for the drivers and enclosures themselves, as well as being attenuated for the driver's output and 1 ohm impedence. Roadmasters, well, need I say anything?

I think maybe you are just looking for an argument or messing with me...either that or you have no ear for sound quality and truly believe audiophiles, acoustic engineers, and lab researchers are all on crack, but the kid in the automotive department at Wal Mart on 2nd shift knows best, or did you come up with this alone?

BTW, this is a Q45 we are talking about.

Sure, they are cheap now, but these were once a $40K car. Why treat it like a Ford Escort? I absolutely disagree with people that do this, and have seen this quite a bit of this lately as Infinis, 300Z's, and similar cars are now affordable to everyone (initally anyway). In other words, just because it costs the same (initally) as your average beater car, I feel it is wrong to cut corners and half *** anything. If someone buys a Q45, J30, etc. just because it is a hella car for $2500, but cannot maintain and treat it like what it was meant to be...well I think that is just wrong.This is just my opinion, and this is a (somewhat) free country, so you can recommend anything you want. I can only hope there are others on this forum that also feel the Q45 is still worthy of more than your aforementioned hack and will back me up. If not, oh well...I stand alone, but am proud to do so as I still think the Z32, Q45, and J30, etc. are still some of the best cars out there, regardless of age or initial price, and there is no way I would simply hang some ill fitting, off-the-shelf speakers in place of correctly working Bose speakers for no reason that I can fathom.

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PoorManQ45
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carcrazyguy wrote:The front drivers in the Q45 are the exact same drivers in $1500 Bose 901's.
This is correct. Unfortunately I have experience with the 901s. I recently restored a pair. I also had to restore the EQ(yeah, that box that comes with them is the only thing that makes then even remotely listenable). I gave them 200w RMS(they supposedly like power. Anyways, long store short. They sounded like crap when compared to pretty much ANY two way speaker.
carcrazyguy wrote:I think maybe you are just looking for an argument or messing with me...either that or you have no ear for sound quality and truly believe audiophiles, acoustic engineers, and lab researchers are all on crack, but the kid in the automotive department at Wal Mart on 2nd shift knows best, or did you come up with this alone?
Haha, have you ever talked to a bose "engineer" Nope, neither have I. Believe me, I've tried. You know what you get? A marketing specialist! Bose does not engineer their products. They are now in the audio world to simply make money. Believe me, they have the resources to make amazing speakers, but you know what, they choose to make great SELLING speakers.

I bet you have never heard the roadmaster speakers before. I bet you don't understand why I recommended them over a really crappy whizzer cone instead. Unlike ~75% of the mass marketed car speakers these actually have a dedicated midrange driver. I have a set of focal 165A1 components in my car, and the midrange on them isn't as clear as on the roadmasters. A friend a set of MB Quart two way components in kickpods in his truck. These do not have the midrange of the roadmasters. Do you see the trend?

I come from the home audio world! Our standards are MUCH higher then car audio standards. When either building or buying speakers/subs we shoot for a razor flat frequency response. I have heard the Mackie 824 studio monitors. These have a flatter response then speakers 10x their price. They sounded absolutely amazing. This is why I recommend the roadmasters.
carcrazyguy wrote:
BTW, this is a Q45 we are talking about.

Sure, they are cheap now, but these were once a $40K car. Why treat it like a Ford Escort? I absolutely disagree with people that do this, and have seen this quite a bit of this lately as Infinis, 300Z's, and similar cars are now affordable to everyone (initally anyway). In other words, just because it costs the same (initally) as your average beater car, I feel it is wrong to cut corners and half *** anything. If someone buys a Q45, J30, etc. just because it is a hella car for $2500, but cannot maintain and treat it like what it was meant to be...well I think that is just wrong.
I understand that. If you feel that way then you need to go into the Infiniti Q45 section with your guns blazing and try to take on the senior members that slapped a pair of 12s in the back and called it a day! I bet you don't think very fondly of doing such a thing either.
carcrazyguy wrote:This is just my opinion, and this is a (somewhat) free country, so you can recommend anything you want. I can only hope there are others on this forum that also feel the Q45 is still worthy of more than your aforementioned hack and will back me up. If not, oh well...I stand alone, but am proud to do so as I still think the Z32, Q45, and J30, etc. are still some of the best cars out there, regardless of age or initial price, and there is no way I would simply hang some ill fitting, off-the-shelf speakers in place of correctly working Bose speakers for no reason that I can fathom.
I understand where you're coming from, but from the initial post I got the feeling that the guy wasn't looking to spend much money. This is why I mentioned upgrading the speakers. Weather you want to believe it or not the speakers I recommend ARE an improvement. But hey, it's like you said, we can have our own opinions.

Lets compromise then. IIRC a Set of Infinity Components in the 6.5" size can be had for ~$100 right now at crutchfield. I'd recommend making the plates and sticking these in the door with a cheap ~50w rms amp.

Just to make sure we're on the same field herecarcrazyguy: Do you know who actually designed the audio system in the <94 Q45s?

Also, note that the 94Q45 and newer have a tweeter in the A-pillar. Could this be a subtle admitance by bose that a single driver just doesn't cut it?

carcrazyguy
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PoorManQ45 wrote:They (Bose 901's) sounded like crap when compared to pretty much ANY two way speaker.
Thousands of audiophiles are all crazy and you are the voice of reason. Bose, the con artist of a company (according to you) paid off all stereo magazines for decades, and put ecstacy powder in the 901 series speakers which was emitted as the speakers move so that customers think they sound nice.

Quote »have you ever talked to a bose "engineer" Nope, neither have I. Believe me, I've tried. You know what you get? A marketing specialist![/quote]You are showing that you also know nothing about business.You are right, engineers don't answer the 800 numbers, did you really expect that? What reality are you living in? Bose products for out cars were designed and built in Japan almost 20 years ago. When you call, you get an $8 per hour call center person in America who only has current brochures and a mild database - the same info you can get likely get online. Expecting them to know anything about the engineering specs of an older product is like calling Nissan's 800# and expecting them to know engineering principle of your Z car.

Quote »Bose does not engineer their products. They are now in the audio world to simply make money.[/quote]That is a pretty silly thing to say. I am not saying Bose is great, but they did put quite a bit of engineering into their car systems from the era in question. I have learned this from my dealings with the systems for the past decade, whether it is from rebuilding amplifiers or computer modeling used when reworking the existing enclosures. I could go all techo on this, but it will surely go over your head, especially since you think Bose is simply a con operation and was able to trick most major auto manufacturers all these years into putting their systems in the top of the line vehicles. You not only know more than the engineers at Bose, you also know more than all of the designers, engineers, and planners at Nissan, Acura, Mazda, etc. If you really believe this then I guess there is not enough text in the world to help.

Quote »I bet you have never heard the roadmaster speakers before. I bet you don't understand why I recommended them[/quote]

It has very little to do with the brand you recommend, yet it has to do with my studying many years of enclosure modeling, speaker properties, etc. I am sure you do things in your work or hobbies that I know little about, but the difference is that I will not be offended by it, or argue blindly just to be right or have the last word. I don't care what brand is in question, there are so many reasons why I said what I did...which I will spare the forum of since it is stuff that would bore the pants off of people here. The original post was for a guy that simply wanted to add a deck...and you went all "Bose conspiracy" on him, recommending him to hack up his car. You can do and believe what you want...I only hoped to avoid you spreading this.

Quote »Also, note that the 94Q45 and newer have a tweeter in the A-pillar. Could this be a subtle admitance by bose that a single driver just doesn't cut it?[/quote]On a slightly different note, most of the 94 Q changes were universally panned by all major media at the time. Regardless, I have a 94 in my family fleet and have not personally owned a previous Q45, but I have yet to see a favorable review for the mild redesign, and the 90-93 were the darlings of the automotive press and engineering core for its segment. Regardless, to each his own, as both are incredible cars.

Actually if you would read back issues of Car Stereo Review (the industry standard sister publication to Stereo Review) the reason for adding the tweeters was due to customer feedback. Sure, maybe Bose was a little overzealous initially assuming Americans would want overly warm sounding car stereos that emulate refernece quality home stereo, I will admit.

Bottom line: I never said Bose was great, I simply was making the point that the existing system when working corrently is decent, and hack speaker "hanging" will degrade the system from there. It has little to do with the brand, yet has to do with a speaker's reaction to specific enclosed airspace, bandwidth tuning from specific length and diameter of porting, and isolation of standing waves, 3 of the more obvious things that are lost when you simply drop a speaker in the door of the Q.There is so much more to it than that, plus that is way oversimplified, but I am sure you will not even get that much, so I will back off and let you hammer on with more Bose conspiracy or at least for the sake of getting the last word no matter what I say.

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PoorManQ45
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carcrazyguy wrote:
Thousands of audiophiles are all crazy and you are the voice of reason. Bose, the con artist of a company (according to you) paid off all stereo magazines for decades, and put ecstacy powder in the 901 series speakers which was emitted as the speakers move so that customers think they sound nice.
I'll admit, bose DID make decent products in the 80s.

The problem is that speaker design has come so far in the past ~20 years.

Why don't you try writing into stereophile(the ultimate audio reviewer currently) and ask them to do a comparison between teh 901s and similarily priced products.

Look at the offerings from paradigm, axiom, hell, mackie(pro audio studio monitors). These are some of the leaders in the price range of the 901s.

What bose has going for it now its historical greatness. They have not come out with a great product in over 15 years. Their cubes ride the coattails of the 901's success in the 80's.

BTW, you'll be hard pressed to find many audiophiles that rave about the 901's. Every 901 owner that I've seen/known(over 10) have their speakers set up improperly for ANY kind of speaker. They do not have them in a dedicated room with the sweet spot precisely measured. They use them for background noise!
carcrazyguy wrote:That is a pretty silly thing to say. I am not saying Bose is great, but they did put quite a bit of engineering into their car systems from the era in question.
Psst, I asked you a question: Who engineered the system in the pre-94 Q45s?

Answer: Mcintosh! Clarion made the HU(widely known).
carcrazyguy wrote:I could go all techo on this, but it will surely go over your head, especially since you think Bose is simply a con operation and was able to trick most major auto manufacturers all these years into putting their systems in the top of the line vehicles.
Actually the Bose systems in newer GMC vehicles that I've heard are pretty good for a stock system! A stock system is 9/10 times a compromise. It is rare that they properly design the system for maximum quality. Usually it is a compromise of SQ and SPL. With SQ decreasing VERY fast as SPL increases(pre-94 q45s have this problem)

BUT, I like the Mark Levinson, Harmon Kardon, and B&O systems in luxury cars such as lexus, BMW, and mercedes. IIRC Jaguar is actually teaming up with B&W for an audio system! The B&W will more then likely be the best, but I'll hold my opinions until I heard it.
carcrazyguy wrote:On a slightly different note, most of the 94 Q changes were universally panned by all major media at the time. Regardless, I have a 94 in my family fleet and have not personally owned a previous Q45, but I have yet to see a favorable review for the mild redesign, and the 90-93 were the darlings of the automotive press and engineering core for its segment. Regardless, to each his own, as both are incredible cars.
Psst... I had a 92 Q45! I know what I'm dealing with here.

Due to the single driver system you get a TON of intermodulated distortion when you turn the volume up. Yes, it is OK at low volumes, but the instant you turn it up the sound goes to poop.
carcrazyguy wrote:It has little to do with the brand, yet has to do with a speaker's reaction to specific enclosed airspace, bandwidth tuning from specific length and diameter of porting, and isolation of standing waves, 3 of the more obvious things that are lost when you simply drop a speaker in the door of the Q.There is so much more to it than that, plus that is way oversimplified, but I am sure you will not even get that much, so I will back off and let you hammer on with more Bose conspiracy or at least for the sake of getting the last word no matter what I say.
Go ahead. Try me. I do not recommend trying to put a speaker in the pod that bose made. I recommend using a speaker that is designed for ~1~2ft^3. Which just happens to be the airspace of every single door, AND every single aftermarket speaker.

I understand fully the need for a proper enclosure tuning. What we're talking about is essentially a sealed box to infinate baffle(leaks to the outside). As you obviously know when dealing with this type of enclosure minor, sometimes even large, increases in air space does not make more the 1~2 dB of difference in output. Group delay is already incredibly low that it doesn't even make a difference.

You mention standing waves: This is NOT an issue inside a door. The door is pretty flat on one side and curved on the other. This diminishes standing waves in the first place.

Standing waves in the car are almost non-existent when it comes to teh main speakers(not counting a sub). Every part of the interior is either covered in carpet, curved, etc...

I understand very well the difference in speakers and their necessary enclosure/tuning sizings.

I have been studying acoustics for over 6 years. Practicing for over 3 years. When I say study I mean studying all the physics laws that apply, thiel and small's white paper researchings, polar response, you know, minor things like that.

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PoorManQ45
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BTW, sorry to the original poster. I didn't mean to go off on you like that.

I simply don't like when peaple change just one part of their system.

If someone wanted to add a sub to the stock system I would have given them the same response.

carcrazyguy
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PoorManQ45 wrote:I'll admit, bose DID make decent products in the 80s.The problem is that speaker design has come so far in the past ~20 years.
True, but dropping in pair of cheap coaxials is not any improvement by any stretch of the imagination...read on.

Quote »Who engineered the system in the pre-94 Q45s. Answer: Mcintosh! Clarion made the HU(widely known). [/quote]I have all of the back issue of CD/MT/RT too, and obviously have repaired Clarion built Bose / Nissan decks for many years. I don't want to argue silly **** like that as well as discuss your obsession with burning 901's. My initial reference simply meant the car comes with quality speakers, already set up, so why mess with it? That went SO over your head and you turned this into a brand name war. Either way, you are showing your true colors...you simply seem to have some bias toward Bose as a brand...which is surely coloring your hearing, LOL. Simply put, the factory system is decent, and free...why encorage people to hack it up with some bs?

BTW, guess you know more Mac and Clarion too BTW? You say they made junk so why are you on a forum and not showing the engineering world how stupid they while accelerating the process of technology? I am sure they would fire you if they saw this thread anyway, assuming you could sell some stodgy H&R person all of your technobabble initially.

Quote »I recommend using a speaker that is designed for ~1~2ft^3. Which just happens to be the airspace of every single door, AND every single aftermarket speaker.[/quote]What are you saying, drop a 15 in the door Seriously though, using the door panel as the enclosure is a cheap fix at best. Sure, automakers in lower end cars have used this technique for decades since audio is a low priority, but it nets poor results at best.The door panel has leaks galore at virtually every seam and becomes literally open-air once the windows are rolled down, and is typically several times the correct internal volume for, say a 6.5 driver which is truly designed for much less than that (plug parameters into a modeling program if you doubt me). Worst of all, every metal piece inside the door panel resonates creating that hollow "in a barrell sound".

This is all assuming we are speaking a factory door speaker installation where the face of the woofer is back mounted in some way airtight against the grille, top mounted, or having some bracket that provides such a seal as is the case with the 240SX or the 89-94 Maxima for example.

However, as I will bet you were speaking of...simply making or buying some flat brackets and "hanging" a speaker in the door panel with a gap between the door panel pass through (grille area). This will get no benefit from the door's interior as an enclosure, will allow the front and back wave from the speaker to collide (a huge no-no) and on top of that allows noise and moisture from inside the door into the interior.If I truly thought you meant building a properly sized, sealed wood or fiberglass enclosure for a pair of aftermarket front drivers then you might have something...but I feel you simply meant what I said before...you know the "Ebay bracket" quick fix that is common for the 240 drifter crowd. I just cannot see you molding front enclosures for anything, especially Roadmasters.

Quote »When I say study I mean studying all the physics laws that apply, thiel and small's white paper researchings, polar response, you know, minor things like that.[/quote]Assuming I believed that, why aren't you aware of laymans laws of basic speaker technology. Seriously, you can't see the forest for the trees (or however that goes). I guess I have to remember everyone on the internet is a Doctor, Lawyer, Engineer, exactly 6 feet tall, owns lots of show cars, and quite a few years older or younger depending on the situation.

Quote »I do not recommend trying to put a speaker in the pod that bose made. I recommend using a speaker that is designed for ~1~2ft^3. Which just happens to be the airspace of every single door, AND every single aftermarket speaker.[/quote]Where did you read or get that? Seriously, run a modeling program on a driver. Also, you can contact the manufacturer to get the ideal volume and the range in most cases. But I guess you know more than them too?

Anyway, your right...why use a speaker that would be in the ideal range for the existing enclosures to produce accurate sound when you can take your chances with whatever you feel like slapping in? I guess that would be boring. That was sarcasm, btw?

Quote »I understand fully the need for a proper enclosure tuning. What we're talking about is essentially a sealed box to infinate baffle (leaks to the outside). As you obviously know when dealing with this type of enclosure minor, sometimes even large, increases in air space does not make more the 1~2 dB of difference in output.

However, every seam at a door panel is a gap, and output is only a very small part of the picture. Plus, we are not talking about a 2 cubic foot walnut enclosure either...yet a leaky door panel full of metal. I am sure this will also go over your head, but if you will notice, any high quality competition system of any quality will use enclosures for their main drivers at great pains to do so. I guess they are on crack too? You need to tell them the error of their ways.
I understand very well the difference in speakers and their necessary enclosure/tuning sizings. I have been studying acoustics for over 6 years. Practicing for over 3 years. When I say study I mean studying all the physics laws that apply, thiel and small's white paper researchings, polar response, you know, minor things like that.


So why would you in any stetch of the imagination say anything you have so far? What site are you pulling terms from anyway? That is a dangerous game as someone might just happen upon this thread that will call your bluff...seen it happen before.
Modified by carcrazyguy at 4:48 PM 2/24/2007

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PoorManQ45
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If I were ever to meet you in person I would politely ask you to punch my doors as hard as you can.

I'm now talking about a Buick Station Wagon that I drive.

I will bet you $1 that you'd break your hand before you dented my door

I worked for a dealer that sold dynamat. So I go it dirt cheap. I have done the doors with a total of three layers. To on the inside of the exterior panels, and one layer on the side that the door panel mounts to.

I've knocked on 2x4s that weren't as solid.

I was assuming that we were talking about someone that knew enough to seal as many gaps as possible(only one left would be window).

Lamens Laws? Got me there. Never heard of it.

I usually go by things like Hoffman's "iron" law.

Psst... You can put a decent 8" driver in the doors. Like the Adire audio Koda 8. When dynamated as I've done this driver will perform amazingly.

-Brien

PS I have my engineering degree. I'm currently working towards my EE and Acoustical E degrees.

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PoorManQ45
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Oh yeah, I highly doubt that you've ever taken the door panels off of a G50 Q45. If you had then you would know that there is NO room to make an enclosure in there

carcrazyguy
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cyyoung2000 wrote:I jus need to know what I need to install a new deck for the 91 Q w/ the stock Bose system. Like adapters, harnesses, kits...etc...I know each speaker has its own little amp so im not sure how thatll work out. Can't really afford great speakers so I'm jus wanna keep them stock for now. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!If I were to install speakers in the front, is it possible to keep the stock speakers in the back? just wondering
Lets try this again. Hmmm, you said you can't afford great speakers and want to keep them stock for now? Anyway, to say again, that is fine...get a system adapter, a pocket, and an antenna adapter, and you are finished. All of these will cost you between $30 and $50, and hour of your time, tops.So the good news is you don't have to install anything you don't want to, or that's bad news depending on who you are Poorman absoultely ignored this or didn't care about the original question enough to respectfully answer it without editorializing.So on that note, in a perfect world a moderator would cut out all posts except the question and the actual answer...wishful thinking.

Quote »PS I have my engineering degree. I'm currently working towards my EE and Acoustical E degrees.[/quote]I have a Ferrari, a doctorate of everything, and I own Microsoft, as Bill Gates is merely a figurehead.Seriously though, if you are telling the truth, I guess I have to remember that, say, 10 hours of reading and studying are probably equivalent to 30 minutes of hands on experiences in many medium...car stereo is an example of that. If you were to get your MECP certification first for example, you might learn more about car audio in a month than any other method, as I would recommend this to anyone that wants a future in such things, and home audio is heavily related in many ways, particularly speaker applications. An analogy of this would be studying to be a mechanic out of a book and / or in a classroom versus working at an actual place of business or a tech school environment where you can be hands on with vehicles.

On another note, try the kind of stuff most of us did as kids and the basic stuff will make more sense...for example, take a home speaker, listen to it, then pull the woofer and hook it up. Then mess with the driver mounted in different things, places, etc. I know this sounds silly, but it is the absolute basics that you seem to have skipped at some point in your journey to omnipotence.

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Defiant
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Whew, that was simple.

Anyways, my Roadmaster head unit is still happily feeding my Bose speakers through the Scosche adapter, decoding SD cards, MP3 CDs and thumb drives for about a hundred bucks, all-in. True that I listen to crap, but what the hell, it's in a car. The sound system's just to drown out those annoying sirens.

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PoorManQ45
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Defiant wrote:Anyways, my Roadmaster head unit is still happily feeding my Bose speakers through the Scosche adapter, decoding SD cards, MP3 CDs and thumb drives for about a hundred bucks, all-in. True that I listen to crap, but what the hell, it's in a car. The sound system's just to drown out those annoying sirens.
Oh yeha, were the one of the ones looking for a HU that could handle more then a couple hundred songs on the USB or SD card?

How is the HU working for you? Do you like the layout.
carcrazyguy wrote:
Lets try this again. Hmmm, you said you can't afford great speakers and want to keep them stock for now? Anyway, to say again, that is fine...get a system adapter, a pocket, and an antenna adapter, and you are finished. All of these will cost you between $30 and $50, and hour of your time, tops.So the good news is you don't have to install anything you don't want to, or that's bad news depending on who you are Poorman absoultely ignored this or didn't care about the original question enough to respectfully answer it without editorializing.
Yeah, I did miss that he said that in his first post. I apologize.

Just to note: like I said before, if you would have posted about wanting to add a subwoofer(usually somethign excessive) to the stock system I would have given you the same response.

Carcrazyguy: What I am trying to prevent is the mindset that jsut doing minor changes like changing the HU will produce an increase in SQ. Same goes for adding a sub. The HU gives more features, the sub gives obnoxious bass relative to the rest of the frequency range.

Of course you can agree here, right?How many people have you seen that will drop a ton of money on their subs, but not even change the stock whizzer cones? I've seen hundreds.

I am trying to discourage this.

bigreese
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:59 pm

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What kind of system adapter do you need. I went to bestbuy today and they said there was no to add a new cd player without rewiring the entire car.

carcrazyguy
Posts: 401
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 2:39 pm
Car: 89 240SX SE, 94 300ZX, 94 Q45

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bigreese wrote:What kind of system adapter do you need. I went to bestbuy today and they said there was no to add a new cd player without rewiring the entire car.
There should be a law against places like that. The sad part is that even when the convince people of such things, they don't actually rewire anything, yet they simply hack off the existing harnesses, and haphazardly hang new speakers (yet charging for reqwiring). I guess the problem is that for whatever reason they assume that the 19 year old at CC or BB knows all about car stereo, when in fact he only is instructed to do the most profitable thing. Then again, if he was that knowledgeable, he would not be working for $7 per hour at an "assembly line" stereo superstore.Anyway, there are several on the market...Scosche, Soundgate, Peripheral, Install Edge, etc. Which one you need will be determined by your car. Let me know what you have and I will see what I have in stock. If I have nothing for your car, you can always get these items at retail prices from Crutchfield or similar.

DrewQ45
Posts: 2020
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 2:01 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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Squealing/screeching of the speakers is caused by bad caps in the bose mini amps and would not be rid of simply by changing HU.

If keeping stock bose speakers with new HU, I suggest disconnecting the individual amps and running new speaker wire directly to the speaker. They'll sound great if your HU has decent power. Nissan harness will be helpful for quick connection of radio, otherwise get a multimeter and figure out the wires.

carcrazyguy
Posts: 401
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 2:39 pm
Car: 89 240SX SE, 94 300ZX, 94 Q45

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DrewQ45 wrote:If keeping stock bose speakers with new HU, I suggest disconnecting the individual amps and running new speaker wire directly to the speaker. They'll sound great if your HU has decent power. Nissan harness will be helpful for quick connection of radio, otherwise get a multimeter and figure out the wires.
Gotta love forums. Why do I say that sarcastically...don't do this. The Bose speakers are 1 ohm on the 90-96 Q45, and other Bose vehicles from the late 80's early 90's era. Connecting a deck directly will usually cause clipping, poor sound, and shortened deck output life. If nothing else, you will loose sound quality and the deck will always run hot, but that is the best case scenario. Aftermarket head units are designed to work with speakers from 4-8 ohms...so even a 2 ohm load would be half of the bottom of the range, much less 1 ohm. Cone control is decreased as impedence drops, so even if none of the other issues mentioned above occured, you would also put additional wear on the speakers with such a method.

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PoorManQ45
Posts: 16676
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 5:13 pm

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^^^ Listen to that.

Change the damn speakers!


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