decided to go sr20det
-
808customz
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:35 pm
decided to go sr20det
i've been reading here on the forums for quite a while and finally decided to write. i was originally gonna go KA24det untill i got a bargain of a lifetime, nothing i wont pass up. i got a redtop s13 sr20det for $150, yes...$150, i got the complete longblock, including dump and down pipe, intake pipe, ECU, upgraded coilpacks, harness, and the dohc PS lines from the dohc car. mine is the sohc ka. the only catch is i gotta find a transmission. the turbo has minimal shaft play so i'm gonna be upgrading to a gt28r, i'm sure its a direct bolt on to the log mani for the t25. (please correct me if i'm wrong). the person i got it from said that the pistons etc were cleaned up , but i dont know if i should believe, i'm thinkin of using eagle rods and arias pistons, or some sort of rod/piston combo. should i replace the water pump also? what are your suggestions? i cant reacall everything ive read, so please direct me to the correct link if it has already been covered. and the last question is how much power will i be looking at with 14lbs on my setup? so i can get the right FMIC. thanks in advance and sorry if this post is long
-
duffman1278
- Posts: 6816
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
- Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!
-
808customz
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:35 pm
Re: (duffman1278)
i'm dead serious...$150..i got conformation from a friend that that exact motor was running in another car before i got it, the person i got it from said he was over it because he could not find an sr20 trans and just bought a car with an sr20 already installed...i found that stock power out of the sr20det red top at 13-15 lbs boost as max 250, what about if i had a t28 with stock tunning or the rod/piston combo?
-
Hijacker
- Posts: 14373
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Max boost you should be running on the T25 should be 12-13. If you go past that you seriously kill the reliability of the turbo and you move out of its peak boost range. Also, if you do the math (assuming that each pound of boost does indeed net you about 7-9 hp), running 12 psi should be equivilant to 245 crank hp. That is the max limit of the fuel injection, not the bottom end.
When you see people blowing motors up, it's because they didn't take the time to properly install a good fuel management setup. They slapped a turbo on and cranked the boost up. The stock MAF stops giving accurate readings right around 250 or so and the stock injectors give up the ghost right about the same time. When that happens, the motor runs dangerously lean. And I don't care what pistons you have, a lean fuel mixture will destroy just about anything you put in there.
Now, $150 is a sweet deal, but if I were you, I'd consider tearing into it just to inspect the bearings for play. This might be my cynical nature, but if I were to get a block for $150, I would assume it's got issues. Unless I knew the seller personally and could trust him. But you'd be best off doing a compression test and then consider ripping the oil pan off for a final inspection.
When you see people blowing motors up, it's because they didn't take the time to properly install a good fuel management setup. They slapped a turbo on and cranked the boost up. The stock MAF stops giving accurate readings right around 250 or so and the stock injectors give up the ghost right about the same time. When that happens, the motor runs dangerously lean. And I don't care what pistons you have, a lean fuel mixture will destroy just about anything you put in there.
Now, $150 is a sweet deal, but if I were you, I'd consider tearing into it just to inspect the bearings for play. This might be my cynical nature, but if I were to get a block for $150, I would assume it's got issues. Unless I knew the seller personally and could trust him. But you'd be best off doing a compression test and then consider ripping the oil pan off for a final inspection.