Dealer Brakes Vs. After Market
Dealer Brakes Vs. After Market
I just got a qoute for $150.00 dealer ans $120.00 after Market not including rotor cutting.
Re: Dealer Brakes Vs. After Market (Edubbz60)
what are you trying to say? a quote for what?
Re: Dealer Brakes Vs. After Market (Manok)
True...what parts are we talking about here?
OEM is not the best, no but some no-name brand is cheaper and worse.
I have a set of EBC pads & rotors waiting to go on in the next couple of months...
OEM is not the best, no but some no-name brand is cheaper and worse.
I have a set of EBC pads & rotors waiting to go on in the next couple of months...
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Re: Dealer Brakes Vs. After Market (Double E)
OEM pad compounds are actually the only compounds tested to match exact vehicles, all the aftermarket companies just slap their generic compounds on a copy of oem backing plate and call them performance pads.
US unlike EU and Japan does not require aftermarkets to meet any standards much less oem standards for stopping distances.
Most aftermarkets cannot meet oem cold wet stopping distance on applications from 60 mph.
Buyer beware!
US unlike EU and Japan does not require aftermarkets to meet any standards much less oem standards for stopping distances.
Most aftermarkets cannot meet oem cold wet stopping distance on applications from 60 mph.
Buyer beware!
-
szh
- Posts: 15932
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
- Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.
Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Re: Dealer Brakes Vs. After Market (Q45tech)
Exactly the reason why I stick with OEM pads ... and recommend doing the same to everybody here.
Changing the rotors to a non-OEM brand is okay though, as long as the weight (i.e., the Iron density) is as good or better than OEM. The weight of the rotor is important because too low a weight/density will not be able to provide the heat capacity needed to remove heat from the pads, etc., during braking.
Z
Changing the rotors to a non-OEM brand is okay though, as long as the weight (i.e., the Iron density) is as good or better than OEM. The weight of the rotor is important because too low a weight/density will not be able to provide the heat capacity needed to remove heat from the pads, etc., during braking.
Z