DE stock block re-assembly

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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Hi, I bought a very clean, smooth running KA with ~120k on it several months back. Since then I'v torn it down to assembled block(meaning everything is off, but crank/rods/pistons are still in). I had planned to have it fully checked/machined and install forgies. Long story short I'm broke, eager to drive my 240, and would like to just run stock for a while(going to pick up another block to build up after I get 'er running)

My question is this - can I get away with simply re-assembling the motor? Of course I plan to replace critical things external to the block, like pumps, timing components, etc, but I don't want to go all out with machine work(on this block). The block has set now for ~6months, without oil. My dad looked at the crank bearings when I got it, and said that they looked OK for an engine with that mileage. Should I bother sizing bearings? I plan to install new seals BTW.

From the information I was given from the previous owner, the eng. never burned or leaked any fluids. I have not turned the crank over since the oil has drained - however I did move a piston when checking the mains myself. Also there are bits of broken-up carbon on top the pistons - do I need to worry about scoring the walls?

Thanks! I'll try to be more verbose later this afternoon.-Jamie


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eddiec
Posts: 966
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 11:01 am
Car: 91 S13

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i'd say as long as you left the bottom end alone you can put it all back together. you'll need new gaskets and what not, but thats it. and as long as the old h2o pump and oil pump worked, then dont bother til you get the new block to build up.

slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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I gave the 'ole man on the hill' a call to see what he suggested. Unfortunately, he said that putting an engine back together that has been sitting is a bad idea. In his experiance (with big blocks and such back in the day) doing so will result in an engine that burns oil like crazy - even if it ran perfect to begin with. I guess I just had my hopes up. He said *minimally*, replace bearings and rings, hone, 'mic crank and rods, and check for planeness on block surface... <shrug> Looks like I'm still gonna be out $2-300....

I am still taking suggestions, I just wanted to report one that I was given.

Thanks,-Jamie

250sx
Posts: 84
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2004 3:21 am

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As long as no moisture or any kind of dirt touched the motor its ok to put everything back together.

slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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Well that's the thing, it's been down to shortblock for a while, in a non-insulated garage. It stood on a stand, but still exposed. I finally just got the nerve tonight and called up Palmer Engine's. They're a local joint that has a decent track record within the town.

I basically just told them I wanted pricing/suggestions on a stock rebuild for the block - hot-tanked(iron block), paint, deck, hone, re-ring the pistons, check the crank/rods, size bearings, and short block assembly. A basic ballance would be nice too. In a nutshell I just asked them to offer their suggestions where needed.

They admitted to wanting to convince me to buy new pistons for it, and I'm considering... I'm thinking about getting from BRC(IIRC). They are located in FL, and last I heard, custom forgies were only $450 or so.

We'll see - depends on their findings.

~Slip


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