DE head

[90lkn4swp]

Are those lifters i can see in the pic put right under the cams?

http://www.back-yard-productions.com/C9.jpg

[Nathan]

Indeed they are, they are also called buckets, or a number of other things Here's how the DE cam, lifter, valve setup works: http://abbysenior.com/mechanic...3.jpg

[90lkn4swp]

Well this is exactly why i wanted the CA but now i have another reason to go KA-t thanks

[02_silver_wagon]

Well this is exactly why i wanted the CA but now i have another reason to go KA-t thanks

Why, may I ask?

[Nathan]

It's a very stable head design. Unfortunately, because of the KA's bore and stroke, it still doesn't like revving all that much. The piston speeds are just too high. I dont think I'd want to take a built bottom end over 8000rpm no matter what. If this sways you back towards the CA you might be interested to know that while people always think the CA rev's really high, the stock tach is usually a good bit off, the factory rev limit in the computer is somewhere around 7400 but looks more like 8000 on the tach, not much higher than the KA's

[90lkn4swp]

i switched from domestics when i learned how they build their engines with lifters pushrods rockers then valves all the extra moving parts rob power and create friction i dont like this

i wanted the CA for its head design with the cam directly above the valves i thought that was why it revved so high but i guess i was wrong

i also thought that the DE had the same head design as the E so i still hadnt made up my mind now i find out it is exactly what i want and .6 litres bigger than the CA so im boosting my KA

[90lkn4swp]

just read your post nathan thankseven more reasonim sold

[90lkn4swp]

does someone make shorter conecting rods for the KA?

[WDRacing]

You can get a destroke kit from a machine shop. I think Paeco makes one, or can if you ask.

WD

[90lkn4swp]

what about the setup deviousKA was creating?modified l20b crank and z24 rods and pistons?wouldnt this be a much cheaper route and i couldget the higher revs that i want

[Nathan]

The only problem with that is I think it requires a LOT of machine work done to the crank which would quickly add up. That is, if you want to keep the KA block. He has some other project cooked up with an L20 block if I remember right. Personally, I dont see a need to change because the KA can make plenty of power without revving past 8000.

[machinehead]

I think anyone who needs more then 8000rpms is nuts. i'd be happy with 7500 or possibly 7000.

[90lkn4swp]

so nathan your saying the KA could safely rev to 8000?is this with or without the stock stroke?

also i would like to balance the crank and remove some exess weight but would bullnosing even be necessary to reach 8000?

ive been looking at dyno sheets and it looks like i might not even want to rev to 8000 seeing as how peak torque is at like 4-5000 so id have to shift at like 55 just to hit it wouldnt i?

[C-Kwik]

Why would you want shorter rods? Then you'ld have to have pistons with a low wrist pin location. The stroke does not change by changing the rod length. Too short a rod, and the piston may pop out inside the block.

As far as revving a KA to 8000, the stock motor will not be able to handle it. Most KA race motor builders say it starts to vibrate excessively at about 7500 RPM. The harmonics are just not suited for revving past this. You can try, but you'll probably spend a lot of money trying. Even the NASPORT KA's that can rev this high are not built with long term reliability in mind. 7000 RPM is plenty to work with. With the right cam you cam move the peak torque to a higher RPM, keep drivability and reliability, and better yet, with a well matched turbo, you can make some serious power.

[90lkn4swp]

I was thinking about the GT25R from garrett with a .64 a/rbut i dont know when it will start to boost with an a/r that high i

i read .48 will give boost down low in the rpms but wont it stop being efficient revving up to 7000?

im still a little confused with the turbo i think ill buy it last i still have 7 months left here in korea so im just going to assemble my own kit back home and install it when i get stationd in the U.S.

i dont know why i was thinking shorter rods i would have to get a custom crank and longer rods but there would be soo much engineering envolved

i just want to be safe in case someone in my family drives my car when im gone and gets a little crazy just some insurance

[WDRacing]

The KA is a 4 banger stroker motor. Its what V8 guys do to a 350 small block to make a 383 or better. The KA was built with low end torque in mind. In stock trim with a good set of cams and the proper turbo 7000 will net plenty of HP and "Q". I was thinking about going with a high rpm KA awhile back, there is a large thread about it. But I decided the expense was to much. I was going with alot of titanium and alot of machine work.

The best thing about the KA is the broad band which you can harness power from. A set of cams and a good turbo will give you 3000-7000 worth of very useable rpm range. You really don't even need cams in most cases.

The GT30 is a better turbo then the GT25 for the KA.

WD

[Nathan]

I said 8000 just as an absolute max for a built bottom end, I wouldn't plan on it staying together for too long either if it saw that rpm very regularly. I know I set my rev limiter at 7000 because it's the most I would ever want to rev too, just no point revving higher, especially not without a serious cam upgrade. Is the GT25R on a T2 or T3 turbine?

[90lkn4swp]

WD do you have a compressor map for the GT30? i cant find one on the net.

would there be an increase in the cubic inches if i were to bore the ka .020 over or would it be such a small amount i shouldnt worry about plugging it in with the equations?i would figure this out but i dont know the formula for finding the cubic inches of a given engine.

thanks