Well i have heard and read somewhere on here that ingesting small amounts of ATF into your motor will clean it out pretty well. Well my KA is reading MUCH MUCH higher than it should and its because of carbon buildup.
Instead of using that stuff that you let sit on teh piston tops, I thought i'd try the ATF thing first since its only like $2. I know its supposed to be sucked in teh motor, but I looked and did not find any vacuum lines in the intake manifold AFTER the thottle body. Am I missing them or is there some other way peopel do this?
THanks for any input and/or help
de-carbonizing with ATF?
the brake booster line or the line from the pcv valve.
just dont let it suck up alot.
what i do when i clean out the combustion chambers is place a small funnel on the brake booster hose or pcv hose and slowly pour in the ATF or MCCC or water.
it should take no less than 2 minutes to go through a quart of fluid. thats being safe. you could go twice as fast, but if you mess up and suck up too much fluid, it will be very detrimental to the motors health. [hydrolocking]
when i use mopar MCCC, i just spray the whole can into the funnel if the car can take it without stalling.
just dont let it suck up alot.
what i do when i clean out the combustion chambers is place a small funnel on the brake booster hose or pcv hose and slowly pour in the ATF or MCCC or water.
it should take no less than 2 minutes to go through a quart of fluid. thats being safe. you could go twice as fast, but if you mess up and suck up too much fluid, it will be very detrimental to the motors health. [hydrolocking]
when i use mopar MCCC, i just spray the whole can into the funnel if the car can take it without stalling.
it works to an extent. definately wouldnt be my first choice.
i would use water before i used ATF. mopar combustion chamber cleaner is definately the best choice. 8$ a can at a chrysler dealer.
BG is very good, but ive seen better cleaning from the MCCC. we have the full line of BG products in our shop, but i dont use any of them except for the 44 fuel system cleaner. and i pass that up if i have redline fuel system cleaner around.
i would use water before i used ATF. mopar combustion chamber cleaner is definately the best choice. 8$ a can at a chrysler dealer.
BG is very good, but ive seen better cleaning from the MCCC. we have the full line of BG products in our shop, but i dont use any of them except for the 44 fuel system cleaner. and i pass that up if i have redline fuel system cleaner around.
really? I have used MCCC before on dsm's and I didnt opt for it cause its expensive and I always used like 2+ cans :p
I read somewhere someone having great results with the ATF. I know it wont evaporate but it will burn. I don't know if water will work with this and I dont raelly know waht rate of water is safe to put in...
I got a quart of ATF, do you guys recommend I stray from my priginal idea and try water first? how much? thanks!
I read somewhere someone having great results with the ATF. I know it wont evaporate but it will burn. I don't know if water will work with this and I dont raelly know waht rate of water is safe to put in...
I got a quart of ATF, do you guys recommend I stray from my priginal idea and try water first? how much? thanks!
use the same amount of water that you would ATF.
the water will evaporate on contact with the pistons and steam clean the inside.
im trying to think of a good analogy for how much water to use. i would say 2 cups of water will do the job.
just pour it in slowly. as long as your not pouring it in at once, it will be fine. figure it should take you 2-3 minutes to use the two cups of water. thats being very safe.
the water will evaporate on contact with the pistons and steam clean the inside.
im trying to think of a good analogy for how much water to use. i would say 2 cups of water will do the job.
just pour it in slowly. as long as your not pouring it in at once, it will be fine. figure it should take you 2-3 minutes to use the two cups of water. thats being very safe.
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s13sr20chris
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well, it least water is free. its a good first step.
i would run a can of cleaner through the motor next [vacuum line] and then pull the plugs and soak the cylinders overnight.
next day, run the car for a few minutes and then change the oil.
if that doesnt clean it out, you could always pull the head and use a can of brake cleaner and a paint scraper. but thats the hard way.
i would run a can of cleaner through the motor next [vacuum line] and then pull the plugs and soak the cylinders overnight.
next day, run the car for a few minutes and then change the oil.
if that doesnt clean it out, you could always pull the head and use a can of brake cleaner and a paint scraper. but thats the hard way.
Ive run a can of cleaner through already before I got new plugs. I am going to pull the plugs in about another week and see if they look normal. 235psi is pretty dang high IMO :p Though it really doesnt effect driveability (idle isn't perfect) its still there and it makes me mad 
Maybe I should just leave it for the extra ponies its givin me ...
Maybe I should just leave it for the extra ponies its givin me ...
might be a good excuse for a water injection setup :-) i would not just pour in water though, its free yea but theres alot of stuff that could go wrong. maybe if you put it in a spray bottle and sprayed it into the throttle body with the intake off. you could do that or just get yourself a can of seafoam which is designed for this cuz your not so cheap that you cant spend 6$.
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
- Contact: