DARN INJECTOR SCREWS!

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Jesda
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How do you remove those annoying little philips head screws that hold the fuel injectors in place? I tried a philips head screwdriver, banging the screwdriver in, everything. The screw is slightly stripped now.

Wes suggested banging a slightly wide flathead screwdriver in. I thought about filing off the sides of the screw to make it fit into an 8mm socket. I sprayed WD40. I did a rain dance. I prayed to every version of God there was. I even asked Satan to help me out just to make sure I covered all the bases.

Any ideas would be more than welcome.


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Jesda
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Also, these are injectors 1 and 2 up front. No plenum removal required.

squeefoo
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Try it with the engine hot. Also you might try cutting a slot with a hacksaw for use with a large flat bladed screwdriver, try putting an adjustable wrench on it to help twist with lots of down-pressure. Don't go too deep with the hacksaw or the head may split when you twist it. Sears makes something that grabs the cross from inside, might be worth a look. Also making the sides flat so a small wrench or adj. wrench will fit (at least on the fronts) might work. If you hit it with a hammer on the very top real hard the cross will collapse slightly so the Phillips will fit again, with a side benefit of shocking it loose. Did you spray the underside of the threads too? Maybe you forgot the Roman screw god it helped Archimedes.

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Jesda
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Here's how I did it. First, I said to myself I would NOT go to bed until ONE screw broke free. I took a 5/18 (I think thats what it said) back end of a wrench and hammered it (using the butt of a socket screw driver for impact) until it wrapped itself around the screw. Then I turned it.

I've been working at this for a LONG time. Im going to drink tonight and celebrate. Sometimes, happiness is about the small victories.

DAEDALUS
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Next time try an impact screwdriver.

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pito11213
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I just used a stubby philips and put my body weight to use as torque until the scew popped loose. I couldnt do the other though since you cant really get in there to do it right.

I think once you take them out look into replacing them with hex nut screws there has to be a replacement out there for it. Hardware store maybe?

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Jesda
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Googling for impact screwdrivers got me this:

and this:

Which one should I purchase?

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aaronl
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I would replace them with stainless steel socket head cap screws. Check out this page in McMaster Carr catalog. Most of the phillips head screws in the engine bay are 6mm. The hex head screws that a 10mm wrench fits on are also 6mm.

http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=2934

Get the impact screw driver you hit with a hammer. This is a standard tool for motor cycle repair guys.

aaronl

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Yeah. Cheap imported ones only cost $5 and do a good job.

3rd Q
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Jesda,I've replaced 28 injectors between my 3 Qs and the best thing I've found for those pain in the butt original screws is a small vise grip plier with an angled nose. Works great on removing the injectors as well. I found mine at Menard's. Makes under-plenum work with all those hose clamps bearable, too. I picked up my replacement screws at the hardware store. Make sure you get a longer length- the stock screws are too short to grip the threads on the shoulders of the fuel rail. Apply a thin coating of vaseline to the new O rings to help them seat easier and slowly wrench it down while alternating sides frequently- otherwise, it's way to easy to pinch an O ring and you'll have to do it all again! Good luck!

Paul

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elwesso
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Off topic, but paul, are you going to post those pictures.....


Cdon851
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All motorcycle shops sell inexpensive hand impact drivers.You place the specially hardened bit on the screw and bang the other end with a hammer.

maxnix
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3rd Q wrote:Jesda,I've replaced 28 injectors between my 3 Qs .... Apply a thin coating of vaseline to the new O rings to help them seat easier
Thought petroleum lubricants on the O-rings were a real no-no according to TexasOil.

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maxnix wrote:Thought petroleum lubricants on the O-rings were a real no-no according to TexasOil.
Can't see why a thin coat would harm anything, sure wouldn't do anything to the O-rings. Enlighten me.

PS: I can never get those impact drivers to work on anything.

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Jesda wrote:Which one should I purchase?
The second one.

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Q451990
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I used vice grips, then replaced with Hex Head. I've had some luck with oversizing the phillips screwdriver head and putting a lot of weight on them. I replaced all of mine back in the TJ days, and he had hex head replacement screws in stock and shipped them with the new injectors - he said all of the techs. complained about the phillips head screws too. I'm sure Joe has them around too - lots of injector replacements in AZ.

Heath

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Q451990
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Oh, and Jesda... That big metal hammer has no business around brittle aluminum intake parts - especially when you're frustrated

Heath

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Jesda
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Looks like I'll be spending some cash at Sears. Thanks guys!

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aaronl
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with out getting trashy we all know it goes in better with lub. there is a specific lub for "O" rings....don't go deep without it.http://www.marcorubber.com/o_lube.htm

and as the pic says , on the same site is "super lube".

As for the impact driver and bad results...the impact loosens the fastener then you use your screw driver or what ever. You use the impact to break the "freeze"

aaronl

3rd Q
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maxnix wrote:Thought petroleum lubricants on the O-rings were a real no-no according to TexasOil.
Head tech at the dealer suggested it. No ill effects in 10 years of driving Qs.

3rd Q
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elwesso wrote:Off topic, but paul, are you going to post those pictures.....
Hope to tell my illustrated chain guide story to you all this weekend.

DAEDALUS
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3rd Q wrote:
Head tech at the dealer suggested it. No ill effects in 10 years of driving Qs.
The O-lube is petroleum-based and not intended for use on o-rings made of silicone, butyl or ethylene propylene 'cause it will deteriorate seals made from those materials. I would think the gasoline would wash away any vasoline on the inside of the seals. Their other product is probably water-based. Anyone know what the factory injector seals are made of?

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aaronl
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I didn't post this one, but will since it came up on the same web site I listed above here is the Super Lube for "all polymers".

http://www.marcorubber.com/o_lube.htm

DAEDALUS
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Great vendor link. Just happened to be playing with a fuel rail this week. For reference, the screws are M5x.80 thread, and are 18mm long. Hopefully the heads are about the same diameter as OEM. You can get a bag of 100 18-8 SS screws for $11.55 from that link. Or save a few bucks and get 20mm screws--not like they're going to bottom out in a thru-hole.


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