Dampening Help!!!

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
redtop240
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:20 pm
Car: 92 240 RB20 Coupe

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Hey newbie to the whole dampening game, I just went with a set of KYB AGX's and HR lowering springs, eveything else on the suspension is stock. What is reccomended to run on the settings, I have 1-4 in the front and1-8 in the rear. Obviously the higher the number the stiffer, but how should I set it up? So do I want it to be softer in the rear for drifting and the drag, or what? Or do you keep it the same all around? I currently have a 92 240 w/ a RB20. Thank you for all the help.


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adrianfromthecastle
Posts: 18849
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 5:36 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx
Location: California

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stiffer for drifting, softest for drag. As far as DD, its all up to what you feel is comfortable. Play around with the settings.

redtop240
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:20 pm
Car: 92 240 RB20 Coupe

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So the theory I am guessing if u can tell me if I am right is Softest for the Drag so I dig and have no wheel spin, and stiffest for drifting so the car breaks loose around corners, i thought vice versa, I guess I was wrong

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adrianfromthecastle
Posts: 18849
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 5:36 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx
Location: California

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honestly, I think the spring rates will play a bigger roll in determining wheel spin and what not. Softer the spring rate = better for drag. Stiffer the spring rate = better for drift. Damper settings are more or less in regards to the desired rebound.

DiF
Posts: 45
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:50 pm
Car: 1962 Chevy. 2004 Adorable Little Civic

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In a nutshell. there is no set way for setups. its just a crapload of trial and error. no 2 cars are alike

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crackler
Posts: 1145
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:45 pm
Car: ZOMG JDM TYT3

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DAMPERS are for controlling the oscillation of the car and the unsprung (wheel) assembly. IIRC to control the cars oscillation you adjust the rebound, to control the wheel you adjust bump. I could have that back wards, but I think that is how it was explained to me. But the AGX's are single adjustable, and I think it is rebound adjustable. So you are controlling the expansion side of the shock. That is assuming I haven't gotten everything sdrawkcab, which I have been known to do. on my 240 W Koni's I ran the front about 2:1 compared to the rear for AutoX. So if I had it full hard in the front, they where half out in the rear. half out in the front then the rears where a quarter out. And adjust them according to how much grip is available. This is for a "competition" type of scenario, not for DD. for daily driving and a good starting point for grip at least see my comments below. IDK with the AGX's since they have different numbers of clicks front to rear.

Here are a few tips to help get it set up.

Find a good and bumpy road.set all four shocks to full soft, drive down road, notate how the car reacts.adjust all four socks to full hard, notate how the reacts, and what felt different than compared to the soft setting.Adjust front full hard, rear full soft, drive again. . . adjust fronts full soft, rears full hard, drive again. . . adjust all for to the middle setting, drive again. . . full hard front, middle rear. . . middle front, full hard rear. . . full soft front, middle rear. . . middle front, full soft rear. . .

You get the idea.

Run the car in as many configurations as possible to see how the cars reactions / ride changes given the shocks set a certain way.

Where you want to get the car to is a point to where when the tires go over a bump, they compress, then expand back out the exact amount needed. You don't want the shocks so hard they can't contract fast enough, and you have to buy a new grill, on the other hand, you don't want the car wallering around on the springs uncontrolled.

The car should hit the bump, the wheel should come up, the wheel should go back down, and then the oscillation of the car and wheel both stop at the same, or as close to the same time as possible. nothing more nothing less. Then you can fine tune it for what ever type of track event from there. Think of the spring as an oscillator that will expand and contract uncontrollably until it has the proper force (dampening) applied to it. And the shock is what dampens that oscillation, and the knobs are what controls/changes the dampening force / characteristics.

hope that helps.Clear as mud now????


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