Damn over heat creeping up on me!

[USMCgetsome]

Ok things i've done.

NEW STOCK WATER PUMP(installed back in march)NISMO THERMOSTAT 62.5 C(2 weeks ago)KOYO RADIATOR(since 2003)12IN PULLER FANS(1 month ago)

problem. I'm fine driving. Come off driving and i get to 80c then to 85c sittin and this is with the fans on. I literally have to drive it before the temp will come down. Yes the fans are in pull mode and sucking a good amount of air. Changed coolant with a bottle of redline water wetter and royal blue purple ice or whatever its called. NOTHING IS WORKING. man i'm soo pissed. it's gonna go in the junk yard at this rate!

what am i lookin at here. Head gasket? nothing is leaking from the head oil or coolant. man i'm soo lost.

I will admit i've never popped off the coolant plug and drained the block. also, it feels like the koyo is never full. there's always a little gap that i have to keep filling. but no leaks in the car.

also, checked timing markers friday night and all the dots line up to the lines/markers. But the cam angle sensor still wants to be all teh way advanced to make 15btdc.

I'm tapped out fellas. my technical knowledge is tapped.

[RB20DETodd]

well since its happening when your sitting, you need a batter stationary setup, ie a better radiator/fans that flow more cfm's water wetter, and be sure to bleed the coolant system good, try i search, i say that in a non search button monkey way haha, but there is lots of info, but if you have the koyo dual core, then get better fans i think it might be possible to fit some 2, 13'' fans spal makes them, or 2, 14'' fans, zirgo ones are good.

BLEED THE SYSTEM!

I have a COPPER OEM Koyo replacement radiator, and it rocks maybe concider ditching the bling radiator for one, its hot out here every day of the year and i have never over heated since. COPPER>aluminum
Modified by RB20DETodd at 2:35 PM 10/22/2006

[karmakaze]

well since its happening when your sitting, you need a batter stationary setup, ie a better radiator/fans that flow more cfm's water wetter, and be sure to bleed the coolant system good, try i search, i say that in a non search button monkey way haha, but there is lots of info, but if you have the koyo dual core, then get better fans i think it might be possible to fit some 2, 13'' fans spal makes them, or 2, 14'' fans, zirgo ones are good.

BLEED THE SYSTEM!

I have a COPPER OEM Koyo replacement radiator, and it rocks maybe concider ditching the bling radiator for one, its hot out here every day of the year and i have never over heated since. COPPER>aluminum

Modified by RB20DETodd at 2:35 PM 10/22/2006

i second that. the copper koyo rocks!

[USMCgetsome]

ok found one of my puller fans was dying out. wasn't sucking enough air. I still don't think this is gonna solve the problem.

[RB20DETodd]

ok found one of my puller fans was dying out. wasn't sucking enough air. I still don't think this is gonna solve the problem.

what kind of fans are you running?

[karmakaze]

i think you have air somewhere in the system.

[Carl H]

sounds bout how my cooling system was going...thing wouldnt cool down unless i started moving again.get some big nasty pullers they should do the trick, spal makes some beast 12" fans but they are a touch thick.

[USMCgetsome]

had some dual 12's from FUELED PERFORMANCE (guy is on the market place)

zerothread/192279

that's them. Anyhow, one quit on me. I don't know when. Researched today and got a new one that pushes 2100ccfm 12in. So, still think there is more to it than the fan. I'll let u guys know. There might be some air in the system. i do not know how to purge it other then open up the radiator cap and watch it flow as the thermostat does it's thing.

thanks for the info fellas.

carl h - what fan setup did u roll with?

[monkeyofdrift]

you guys think a aftermarket oil-cooler would help with the temp problem, I know that my RX-8 has 2 of them, cuz the rotary gens. alot of heat, the thing I notice about these RB's are they love to collect heat, so i'm guessing air ducts, vented hoods, radiator plates etc., just anything that will cool down.

man, I'm about to find a way to add another dual fan, make 4 fans total, lol maybe one in the front and the back of the radiator.

[USMCgetsome]

damn. my stagea motor didn't come with on oil cooler. Was thinking of getting one. Let me know what you guys think.

running 15 50w just changed oil friday.

[monkeyofdrift]

damn. my stagea motor didn't come with on oil cooler. Was thinking of getting one. Let me know what you guys think.

running 15 50w just changed oil friday.

I'm thinking about getting an oil cooler, when I start doing the turbo upgrade. I'm trying to figure out which oil cooler can I put on the RB, or is it universal.

[kouki-gymkhana]

Dude, I have the same cooling mods and I was seeing 75 C at idle and 85 C with the A/C on with a blown HG. Something is definitely amiss with your setup. I would do a formal leakdown test to make sure the HG is not blown. Also, the best way to PROPERLY bleed the cooling system is from the highest point in the circuit which IS NOT the rad cap. Look closely at your intake manifold and you will see a bleeder screw. Back that puppy out, put on the radiator cap and start the car, you should see quite a bit of air and bubbles coming out and once the coolant flows in a steady stream, tighten up the bolt and you should be good to go. This is probably why you are never fully able to get your Koyo full of coolant. Also, you may be losing coolant into the overflow tank since you have been running so hot. This is another reason why the rad always seems to be missing some coolant. Ideally, you'd swap out the overflow tank for a sealed expansion tank that will allow bidirectional flow of the coolant so it can return to the rad once the car cools down.

Good luck! I'll be putting my motor back together next week (after being down with a blown HG for 6 months!)

[240z4u]

I have simaler problems. One junkass puller and a stock S14 rad. That badboy WILL start to overheat if it sits too long in 100+ temp days. Runs super cool at cruise though, I made some ducting that made all the difference.

I am thinking the copper koyo (heck the price is right). I also want to setup my fans as pushers just due to space. I know its not ideal, but if i can keep cool with pushers in chicago im happy.

Not to threadjack, but when I crack open my bleeder screw, I always get a mix of water/bubbles. It kinda gurgles and shoots out! Is this normal? Maybe something else is awry.

Thanks - Evan

[USMCgetsome]

Ok will use that damn screw. I did notice it building bubbles at the back cylinder when the motor was off and getting above temperature. I figured it was because it was hot. Anyhow, motor runs fine if it is a blown head gasket and i do not show any coolant or oil leaks. I will have a leak down test done by this weekend.

[kouki-gymkhana]

Yeah, my engine ran like a top despite the then undiagnosed blown HG. It never spat white smoke out of the exhaust, ran poorly, or demonstrated coolant in the oil but sure enough when I used a block tester, WHAMMO, I had carbon monoxide in my coolant so the HG was blown. This was confirmed when I sent the head out to be planed and they told me it was actually warped in 2 spots. The point to all this is that a blown HG on these motors may not present with all the classic signs that one would expect like I mentioned above.

[USMCgetsome]

heard bubbles being made towards the rear of the vehicle #6 in the back. the coolant line underneath the intake manifold. So, that's where i'm at. They were made when the vehicle was shut off. so no bubbles made when motor off.

[USMCgetsome]

It's been in the 60's here. So i've been running the car lately pretty hard. did the suggested purge and let out the air bubbles. Idles at 70c and cruising 66-70c. Running hard was at 77 and would come back down to 66c. I still think something is wrong but it's been working.

[Tictakman]

hey when i had mine it was runnin hot until i bled it better.

What i did and what worked was jacking up the front of the car way up...turn it on and let it warm up and burp all of it out.

[kjlindgr]

What's wrong with idle temperatures of even 85C? That's only 185F which is right where most aftermarket fans are set to kick on at. I'm not seeing an issue here.

[Darius]

I think he is concerned because he put a cooler thermostat in and is expecting it to operate at that temp. I don't understand why a cooler engine operating temp is an "upgrade", but NISMO knows best.

I have a stock Z32 thermostat in with the stock KA (A/T) radiator and one Permacool pusher (~960 CFM) fan operating. My other fan didn't work out of the box or my wiring came apart. I haven't had temperature problems, but it hasn't gotten warm here since I've been driving it.

Could your thermostat be sticking closed?

[USMCgetsome]

the problem was that the motor would not stable. Motor temp would come down when driving to 78 then at a stop light or traffic would not stable to 85. Would just keep going to 90c or higher. I'm happy with the nismo t-stat it keeps me regular now at 82c or lower. Even at a stop light.