D21 Clutch Master Cylinder removal?

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
SarahConnor
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:57 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan D21 XE

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Need to swap my clutch master cylinder and seeking advice on how to undo the left bolt. The master cylinder is recessed under the lip of the firewall so that a wrench can touch it, let alone is there room to turn one. It's snug next to the break booster so a socket won't fit over the bolt as it knocks into the break booster. When I look inside the truck next to clutch I see the other side of the studs are flat... no bolt on other side to undo.

Anyone have any advice? Do those T studs pop out or are they welded in? Would like to know what others have done lest I mess up the hydraulic system. From what I understand should be an easy thing to remove but I don't know how people get around this hard to reach bolt without dismantling the brake booster.

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macgiver
Posts: 1625
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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mac here, This method I've worked on hard to reach Injectors on my J30 , amongst other "tough ones". You get a skinny "wood type Chisel" , approx 3/8" to 1/2" wide & long enough to reach the nut ,screwdriver is typically used but it slips many times = frustrating - whearas the sharper edge of chisel "catches ,and bites" the nut ,or screw or whatever your trying to "hit loose" . So you are positioning it on an "edge" of the nut -hitting w/hammer BLASTER will obviously help , but it it makes it slip ? You gotta try FIRST W/NO BLASTER ! :yesnod (Blaster is ,you know a hdw. loosener in a spray can) . Now you can just continue this ,it WILL probably work , and hit it till ready to drop or better yet you can "finger it out" the rest of the way. And to put it back the same way - be at ease that that m/cyl 's mtg. ear does NOT have to be Super tight ,yeh ! :rotfl Glen 2/19/2018

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Crows foot will work the best to break it loose. Time consuming. If the cylinder isn’t leaking I would replace the slave cylinder first. Also when you order the cylinder make sure you go by the vehicle vin number & the date of manufacture. They changed the style in the middle of the year. 1996 & 1997. Both will bolt up, but the clutch won’t work unless it’s the exact one.

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Before you remove the cylinder disconnect the line hold your finger over the line & have someone press the pedal. If brake fluid appears the cylinder is probably ok. Repeat the process several times

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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12mm - Crows foot & a wobble extension will work Go online - SK 45168 extension. Look at the end that’s the type of end (wobble) that will work. Any brand will work doesn’t have to be SK. Hard to get the nut started after the new cylinder is installed.

macgiver
Posts: 1625
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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Right that nut going back on,I forgot to mention those telescoping magnets are great for that , good point whomadewho ! :cool:

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Looking at the photos the cylinder doesn’t appear to be leaking unless it’s leaking inside the cab? Anything’s possible but it isn’t a part that has a history of going bad? Real common to have a bad slave cylinder.

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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If you replace the clutch cylinder. Just an opinion I would replace the slave cylinder also.


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