D/S actuator or not??

[slipnfall]

Hi folks, I bought a DEI-brand alarm/keyless entry/remote start, and am just gathering some specific's while it's being shipped. First, I *assumed* the driver-side door in my '92 240 did not have an actuator. However there's one shown in my FSM. Is this different between trim models? If I unlock my passenger door, the D/S does not unlock. Of course it may not be working properly.

If I do, is it better to use the control signal to the timer unit, or bypass the timer(and use the alarm unit's pulsed output). I guess if I bypassed the timer I would probably need relays. Apparently this is a single-wire lock/ul system: pulse to ground to lock, and open to unlock.

In the case that I don't, I bought an actuator anyways(only $7-I'll use it on the trunk if I dont need it). Will this actuator properly unlock the P/S door? Also there were no details about the actuator in regards to current draw: 'think I can use the 'active speaker' power wire to supply power to the actuator?(amps were removed).

Thanks! I'll try to make a write-up as I install it.

-Jamie

[slipnfall]

Ok so it turns out I must have an actuator in the driver's door: there are many conflicting posts here... anyways... I listened closely to the door, and there's definately an actuator in there.

So now the question is on the control. This apparently is a single-wire system. To unlock, you pulse ground on the control signal. To lock, you leave the signal 'floating'. My alarm brain only has pulsed outputs though, in both polarity configurations(ie +lock/-UL on one wire, and -lock/+UL on another). It also has a second -UL output.

The problem I see is the pulsing: even if I use a relay, if I pulse ground to unlock, how do I lock??(I would have to 're-open' the ground connection that was already released opened from the pulse). Do I have to latch these signal inputs to the lock timer control module?

Does this make sense?