[youtube]https://youtu.be/VcYdSNK2lEc [/youtube]

I have been having all kinds of issues with what I believe to be my CVT for the last 8 months or so. I cannot get any help from the dealership. I have been trying to show them information and videos that I found on the internet. My car is BACK in the shop again as of Wednesday and I took my own videos this time along with providing them with the NTB14002 (Nissan Tech Bulletin) information regarding the installation of a cooling kit to protect against going into fail safe/limp mode. I haven't heard back from them yet, 2 days later. The "Check Engine Light" comes on, and they keep telling me that the code error that keeps coming back is related to low battery voltage and that all they need to do is charge the battery and everything will be fine. They refuse to acknowledge any other issues because they cannot replicate the issue. I have told them repeatedly that unless they intend to take my car on an extended road trip, drive it on a lot of hills or during extended high temperatures, that they will not be able to replicate it on their trip around the block. I do not know what else to do to get them to listen and correct the problem. I have actual footage of my car malfunctioning. Oh, and by the way, I'm a female...any suggestions here? I need to get this resolved. My car is almost not drivable most of the time now. And I definitely cannot take any road trips. It's a 2012 Nissan Juke SL and has about 88,000 miles on it. It's crazy what happens. One minute, the gas is all the way to the floor and the tach won't go above 3, and the speed doesn't go above 50mph and there's NO torque or power at all. The next minute, the RPM's are up so high, up into 5 and 6 and still can't get above 60 mph...and it sounds like it's going to blow up! But, if I stop and turn the car off for 5 minutes or so, it's like everything resets, cools down, goes back to normal like nothing ever happened! CVT Poltergeist!!!!

I've had the CVT go into the "fail safe" mode 3 times over the 110K miles I have on this 2011. Every time was from getting bored and going into the manual shift mode. Letting it sit for 5 to 10 min resolves the issue.

I now avoid manual mode like the plague. Although the fluid level and color are good, I'm going to drop the cvt drain plug and refill with that very expensive Nissan CVT fluid before the end of 2015. Same for the antifreeze too.

I finally got their attention with my videos. I got a new transmission. All replaced under warranty with no hassle this time. I'm pleasantly surprised. My car is running like new. The car had issues all along that they blew off until it finally got to this point. So, I'm hoping the new transmission will eliminate the problems and that the one I had was just faulty. I can say that I have learned a lot though. So, if I start having issues, I know exactly what to look for, what to do, and how to get it resolved!

Hi, I have a 2013 Nissan Juke with a CVT and I just started experiencing similar issues. My car just stopped accelerating all together. It refused to go above 2500 rpms and couldn't gain any speed even on level ground. I took it in and they are telling me that the computer isn't showing them any issues and that my car is fine. I'm still under warranty but from what I saw you post and what I've been experiencing it looks to be the same issue. Was there anything outside of a brand new transmission that you can do to fix this?

I bought a used 2011 Juke with 106k. During the test drive and even up to a week after owning it everything was fine while driving around locally, then I decided to take it on a trip about 100 miles away when this ugly beast reared its head. It went into fail safe/ limp mode on the way home. I was only about 20 miles from the dealership I bought it from so I stopped to show them the problem. Needless to say by the time they got to it the problem was gone because it had time to cool down. I hear there was a warrantee up to 120k extension on 2010 and lower but mine is dated 1-11 so I'm hoping to get it checked and hopefully it' has the 10 power train fingers crossed anyway. I'm glad yours was repaired/replaced. Hopefully I'll have a bit of luck with mine. Thanks for posting your info. Have a wonderful weekend.

Did you purchase an extended warranty on your Juke? If not, you most likely do not have powertrain warranty remaining. Did you have the dealership run a diagnostic on the CVT?

Well i have 139,000 on my 2011 juke sv awd . I did a drain and fill of the cvt and the trans felt much smoother after. I did it at 130k the green light green fluid had turned black like used engine oil. I did this because i noticed a whine and it solved the problem . Never limp mode . I feel 60k is a good interval

I personally did mine at 60k (when I got the car), but would recommend every 30k for drain and fill. There is a filter inside the beehive cooler and a strainer in the pan. If I had a car with over 100k (especially if it had old fluid in there), I would think it best to swap them out.
http://www.autozone.com/filters-and-pcv ... 0_382366_0
http://www.autozone.com/filters-and-pcv ... 0_352620_0

I have a 2013 juke, CVT with 97,400 miles. It has gone into safe mode two different times, both on trips over an hour drive time. Wouldn't accelerate over 60mph. Same type of issues a number of members have posted about. I have not had the check engine light or any lights come on. I took it to a transmission shop, pulled code P0744, torque converter. Also said cvt fluid is dirty. My question is should I have the fluid changed before jumping into replacing the CVT or am just I looking at getting it replaced? Also I was told changing the fluid could make issues worse??

Possibly, dirty fluid is one of the possible causes of that code.

I would change out the transmission fluid first, especially if you have not done so before. Use Valvoline CVT (available on Amazon) to save money. Just do a drain and fill:
- Drain the fluid out through the transmission drain plug
- measure how much comes out
- fill up a bit less (say half a quart) than that through the dipstick tube
- Warm up the transmission and then add to the full mark on the dipstick

Make sure not to overfill the transmission. Some transmissions were filled on the high side from the factory, so you may end up putting less in than you took out. Overfilling will put it into failsafe. Make sure you use NS-2 compatible CVT fluid (even a small amount of ATF will ruin your transmission). And do not let a transmission place talk you into a "flush".