Hey everyone i have a question. In the last year just 2 times happens(today was one of them) that the traffic was horrible, about 1 hour in a half at 5mph and suddenly I accelerate and the rpms goes up but the car didnt move as fast as it should. I turned the car off completely, start again and everything was perfect again. The last time was about 4 months ago, the same heavy traffic and hot days. The oil was changed about 2 years ago(about 70,000 miles)
Everything happens from stop or almost no speed. After restart everything is perfect, no issues.

Sounds like maybe the tranny is juddering (belt slip) when it gets hot. There will be judder codes in it if so, P17F1 or P17F0. P17F1 means slip was detected but not severely, sometimes fresh fluid will address it or it may need a new Valve Body. P17F0 is a death code, it almost always means the belt is already damaged and the tranny is shot. Most free parts store scans can read the TCM and tell you if any codes are present. The TCM also has an "overheat record" called CVT-A/CVT-B, but very few common scanners can read that. There's an app called CVTz50 that can let you look at the TCM yourself using a 'Droid phone and a bluetooth-OBD dongle.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed May 10, 2023 7:44 pm

Sounds like maybe the tranny is juddering (belt slip) when it gets hot. There will be judder codes in it if so, P17F1 or P17F0. P17F1 means slip was detected but not severely, sometimes fresh fluid will address it or it may need a new Valve Body. P17F0 is a death code, it almost always means the belt is already damaged and the tranny is shot. Most free parts store scans can read the TCM and tell you if any codes are present. The TCM also has an "overheat record" called CVT-A/CVT-B, but very few common scanners can read that. There's an app called CVTz50 that can let you look at the TCM yourself using a 'Droid phone and a bluetooth-OBD dongle.

Thanks a lot really good info. If there is no code is something else to check?. Or just use the rogue cause it drives perfect just this 2 weird moments.

First change at 70K is pretty late, you need to do it at ~30K intervals if you really want it to stay healthy. Even if you don't have 30K on it since the change, you might want to consider doing another one just to get some more of that old stuff out. There are also some better fluids out there than NS3, based on customer feedback I'm particularly partial to Eneos Eco. It exceeds NS3 in almost all specs, runs much quieter, and it's about the same color as NS3 (it won't apply in your case, but that avoids rude warranty questions).

I did amsoil CVT oil change.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Thu May 11, 2023 7:30 am

First change at 70K is pretty late, you need to do it at ~30K intervals if you really want it to stay healthy. Even if you don't have 30K on it since the change, you might want to consider doing another one just to get some more of that old stuff out. There are also some better fluids out there than NS3, based on customer feedback I'm particularly partial to Eneos Eco. It exceeds NS3 in almost all specs, runs much quieter, and it's about the same color as NS3 (it won't apply in your case, but that avoids rude warranty questions).

Thanks, btw did you change also the filter and other parts?

AMSoil is also excellent, it's only my second choice because it's red. Its specs are fabulous and it runs quiet.
The filters are probably okay, but the best way to judge that is to drop the pan and clean it out. There will be a thin layer of black gunk in the bottom, that's normal. You'll also find a bunch of very fine metal shavings stuck to the magnets. As long as they're all very fine (half a millimeter or less in width) then just blow out the screen and call it good. If you find any larger metal debris, then change out the paper filter too, and flush out the heat exchanger.

By the way there is 2 filters one on a metal caee and another one like engine oil filter. I never change that.

Been using the same mini-paper filter in the behive going nearly 14 years.

Did change the strainer once back in the day.

Both engine and transmission running smooth as butter still.

But always aware that my original cvt transmission may implode one day because of its age.

Fortunately, So far so good.

I’ve been blessed with the cvt crapshoot lottery so far!

Tomorrow will change the fluid and 2 filters we will see how everything looks. Check for any codes and none on the system.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Thu May 11, 2023 9:47 am

AMSoil is also excellent, it's only my second choice because it's red. Its specs are fabulous and it runs quiet.
The filters are probably okay, but the best way to judge that is to drop the pan and clean it out. There will be a thin layer of black gunk in the bottom, that's normal. You'll also find a bunch of very fine metal shavings stuck to the magnets. As long as they're all very fine (half a millimeter or less in width) then just blow out the screen and call it good. If you find any larger metal debris, then change out the paper filter too, and flush out the heat exchanger.

Well my oil pan magnet were with some micro residue/shaving metal both, but not metal debris or large parts. The valve body filter was kind of clean, the same the paper filter, anyway i replaced both with new OEM parts. No metal parts/debris inside, kind of surprised me because almost 100,000 miles. The amsoil oil was not too dark was clear and has about 30,000 miles. So everything is new and hope the best.

Little shavings on the magnet are completely normal, that's where they go to die. Fluid in a CVT pan is very slow moving, so almost everything settles out there. That's why the paper filter is usually good for life, because after break-in it really has very little to filter.

I had no shavings on my magnets, just the "mud"; clutch material.
No filings, no glitter, no shavings or grit.

The oil cooler filter is there to prevent any corrosion inside the heat exchanger, or radiator exchanger, from getting into the transmission. That paper filter is NOT a lifetime filter. Nissan wants you to change it every 50/60k miles, or after an overhaul or rebuild, then after 50k miles. The radiator side must also be cleaned out.



This video shows the "coffee" filter replacement, and he also explains it is not found in the service manual, and no torque specs on the bolts, but are the same as the trans pan bolts.

While the vehicle is an Altima, it is the same RE0F10D trans.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 2:06 am

I had no shavings on my magnets, just the "mud"; clutch material.
No filings, no glitter, no shavings or grit.

The oil cooler filter is there to prevent any corrosion inside the heat exchanger, or radiator exchanger, from getting into the transmission. That paper filter is NOT a lifetime filter. Nissan wants you to change it every 50/60k miles, or after an overhaul or rebuild, then after 50k miles. The radiator side must also be cleaned out.



This video shows the "coffee" filter replacement, and he also explains it is not found in the service manual, and no torque specs on the bolts, but are the same as the trans pan bolts.

While the vehicle is an Altima, it is the same RE0F10D trans.

I was surprised that my local dealer told me that if i eant to change the filters with then, they wiill not responsable if something happens to the cvt, they even told me that filters doesn't need to be changed. BTW I saw is about 8nm of torquenon the oil pan?

Yep, 7.9nM, 70 lbs/in. Nissan puts almost all their torque specs into the exploded drawings, see TM-205 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 5%2Ftm.pdf

So the local dealer told you that if you want to change the filters with them, they will not be responsible if something happens to the cvt.

So what will happen if they did change the transmission filter to a fresh new one? That it will happen to last longer?

I guess the local dealer will only do oil changes as long as their not responsible if anything goes wrong with the engine.

Changing that filter is purely a matter of preference if you've kept your fluid fresh. On a clean tranny it's tits on bull to change it, on a neglected one with a lot of crap and shavings it's a good idea (as is back-flushing the heat exchanger and lines). I'm definitely calling BS on that dealer, Nissan doesn't make any recommendations about it that I'm aware of. In fact, if you search "filter" in the TM sections for any '10D tranny, the only hits you'll get are for the coffee filter (yes, coffee) recommended for checking fluid quality and metal debris.

casperfun wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 6:14 am

So the local dealer told you that if you want to change the filters with them, they will not be responsible if something happens to the cvt.

So what will happen if they did change the transmission filter to a fresh new one? That it will happen to last longer?

I guess the local dealer will only do oil changes as long as their not responsible if anything goes wrong with the engine.

I was like are really saying that?. Crazy.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 6:32 am

Changing that filter is purely a matter of preference if you've kept your fluid fresh. On a clean tranny it's tits on bull to change it, on a neglected one with a lot of crap and shavings it's a good idea (as is back-flushing the heat exchanger and lines). I'm definitely calling BS on that dealer, Nissan doesn't make any recommendations about it that I'm aware of. In fact, if you search "filter" in the TM sections for any '10D tranny, the only hits you'll get are for the coffee filter (yes, coffee) recommended for checking fluid quality and metal debris.

If the belt is started to worn out, it should be residue of metal on the filters and oil pan magnet?.

Like I said, some amount of small shavings is normal. When a belt starts to have issues, the initial wear is always at the edges that contact the pulley, and that immediately results in larger shavings or even chunks. That stuff rarely gets out of the pan, but when it does, it can result in clogging both the paper filter and the heat exchanger. That's why the size of what's stuck to the magnets matters. If you didn't find anything larger than 1/2 mm and there was no glitter in the fluid, quit worrying.

xtrailmty wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 5:31 am

I was surprised that my local dealer told me that if i eant to change the filters with then, they wiill not responsable if something happens to the cvt, they even told me that filters doesn't need to be changed. BTW I saw is about 8nm of torquenon the oil pan?

8nm is about 70.8 in-lb (round up to 7 ft-lb), so that's about right.

Also, I found something else out that is pretty cool, if you wanted to
expand the trans fluid capacity of the Rogue.

The Murano trans pan is deeper, and has a valley in it for the Murano
filter inlet. You could buy a Murano filter kit, and trans pan, and get another
2 quarts volume in the transmission. The bolt pattern is the same for both
the D and E trans. However, yeah, the E pan is deeper and holds more
fluid.




I guy I know has a '17 Murano, and he told me he took six quarts out of his,
and I did not think that was right, as I only got four from mine. After
I saw the difference in the pans, I now know he DID get six from his.
So, if I ever come across a Murano pan, I will get the Murano filter kit and
increase the volume of fluid. Will also reduce temps just a little..

I also just got a Dipstick from Amazon for $12
Three cartridge filters for $20
The metal clad seal is $6 from Nissan.
Beck/Arnley Filter comes with it for $16.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 6:48 pm

Like I said, some amount of small shavings is normal. When a belt starts to have issues, the initial wear is always at the edges that contact the pulley, and that immediately results in larger shavings or even chunks. That stuff rarely gets out of the pan, but when it does, it can result in clogging both the paper filter and the heat exchanger. That's why the size of what's stuck to the magnets matters. If you didn't find anything larger than 1/2 mm and there was no glitter in the fluid, quit worrying.

I had absolutely none, just the typical clutch material mud.
I had more on my Camaro and Mustang magnets than what I
had on these three littler ones. There was no evidence that
the trans filter was done, at least up to 11/19/2022. I have
all the paper records too. Steady oil and filter changes.
No "Transmission" serviced items.

That doesn't mean there isn't debris in the rad side of the cooler.
The service manual says to clean that out when the trans is
overhauled, rebuilt, or replaced. If there are 1mm or larger
shavings, not to reuse the cooler with the overhauled, rebuilt,
or replaced trans, replace that too.

xtrailmty wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 12:19 pm

If the belt is started to worn out, it should be residue of metal on the filters and oil pan magnet?.

The CVT8 (10D) has a heavy duty belt:

The 10D is a stronger more heavy duty style push belt and has 423 steel plates.

This one doesn't wear as fast as the thinner one did. I read somewhere that
initially, during a break-in time, you wold see some filings on the
magnets. SO, either mine was changed at one point, or are prettly
lucky thus far. It's starting to whine or whir at low RPMs, and I hope it is not
the reduction gear bearings.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Sat May 20, 2023 12:13 am

The 10D is a stronger more heavy duty style push belt and has 423 steel plates.

This one doesn't wear as fast as the thinner one did. I read somewhere that
initially, during a break-in time, you wold see some filings on the
magnets. SO, either mine was changed at one point, or are prettly
lucky thus far. It's starting to whine or whir at low RPMs, and I hope it is not
the reduction gear bearings.

After break-in, neither one of them will actually "wear" if the fluid is well-maintained and there's no overheating. Fresh CVT fluid from any manufacturer has more than enough film and shear strength to completely prevent metal contact under practically any circumstance. Problems happen when old fluid meets heat and shear force, and the big improvement in the '10D belt isn't just strength, it also has a larger heat shed area (the non-contacting portions of the belt). In any case, there are always initial shavings after break-in, but usually little or none after that if the magnets are cleaned and the fluid kept fresh. So yours was evidently cleaned out at some point.

Vis the noise, are you using NS3? It's a good fluid, but from a noise standpoint, definitely not the best. My customers using AMSoil and Eneos all agree that their trannies run noticeably quieter after changing over, and while I can't personally vouch for other brands, I've heard good things about Castrol and some others. So you might simply want to try a different fluid.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 11:50 pm

Also, I found something else out that is pretty cool, if you wanted to
expand the trans fluid capacity of the Rogue.

The Murano trans pan is deeper, and has a valley in it for the Murano
filter inlet. You could buy a Murano filter kit, and trans pan, and get another
2 quarts volume in the transmission. The bolt pattern is the same for both
the D and E trans. However, yeah, the E pan is deeper and holds more

That is pretty freakin' cool. I have a few customers who tow with Rogues and some extra fluid capacity would be a definite improvement. I don't think all the '10E pans have identical contours, is that the '17 Murano pan, or do you have a p/n for it?

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat May 20, 2023 4:58 am

is the noise, are you using NS3? It's a good fluid, but from a noise standpoint, definitely not the best. My customers using AMSoil and Eneos all agree that their trannies run noticeably quieter after changing over, and while I can't personally vouch for other brands, I've heard good things about Castrol and some others. So you might simply want to try a different fluid.

Yes, it is NS3. I work in a performance shop, so I am careful to read what is
required. I am using Castrol, and the specs are NS1, NS2, and NS3.

The whir is there at IDLE while in Park Neutral, or Drive, and goes up with engine RPMs,
till it goes away at about 1500 RPM. Sounds like a Whiny power steering pump,
but not as loud.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat May 20, 2023 5:18 am

That is pretty freakin' cool. I have a few customers who tow with Rogues and some extra fluid capacity would be a definite improvement. I don't think all the '10E pans have identical contours, is that the '17 Murano pan, or do you have a p/n for it?

Yeah, it looks like the slanted sides are opposite each other.

The slanted side on the rogue is on the left, facing the wheel side.
Looks like the Murano pan slant is on the right, facing the oil pan.
Like they're mirror opposites, but man, I would like to see if
there is one that does fit that is deeper.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Sat May 20, 2023 9:57 pm

The whir is there at IDLE while in Park Neutral, or Drive, and goes up with engine RPMs, till it goes away at about 1500 RPM. Sounds like a Whiny power steering pump, but not as loud.

Put a steth on it, that might not be the tranny. The overrunning clutches on all late model Nissan alternators are infamous for a variety of buzzing noises. I've also heard auto-tensioners make some pretty bizarre noises on occasion. If you do hear it at the bellhousing, it has to be in the Torque Converter sprag clutch or the front pump. Nothing else in the tranny is spinning in P or N, so that pretty much leaves out everything downstream of the pump.

PowerslavePA wrote: ↑

Sat May 20, 2023 10:17 pm

Yeah, it looks like the slanted sides are opposite each other.

The slanted side on the rogue is on the left, facing the wheel side.
Looks like the Murano pan slant is on the right, facing the oil pan.
Like they're mirror opposites, but man, I would like to see if
there is one that does fit that is deeper.

We have them open and apart in various states on the shop floor all the time, I'm going to start looking and comparing. In the mean time, the biggest problem with fluid breakdown is heat, and the biggest problem with heat is that the damn beehive never stops pumping it into the system even when the tranny is hot enough to fry eggs. Our buddy Macgiver put a manual coolant cutoff valve on his Juke to kill the stupid thing when he drives into the mountains, but I actually designed an automatic one that I'm selling. I shared the development cycle with the crowd in this thread...
mountains-cvt-did-the-oil-cooler-instal ... 74-30.html

I don't want to be accused of free plugs so I won't post a sales link, but if you routinely do mountains or tow anything, it will definitely help with the fluid deterioration problem.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun May 21, 2023 6:12 am

Put a steth on it, that might not be the tranny. The overrunning clutches on all late model Nissan alternators are infamous for a variety of buzzing noises. I've also heard auto-tensioners make some pretty bizarre noises on occasion. If you do hear it at the bellhousing, it has to be in the Torque Converter sprag clutch or the front pump. Nothing else in the tranny is spinning in P or N, so that pretty much leaves out everything downstream of the pump.

I know it's the transmission. I work in a performance shop, I know how to
diagnose. It is coming from under the variator cover. I thought maybe
it was the alternator, but it's down too low, on the driver side. Alternator
is on the passenger side. It also has nothing to do with timing components.

These transmissions are so thin, even the noise coming from where it appears to
be coming from, whatever it is, it will be before the clutch pack on the
driven pulley. It goes away at 1500 RPM and up. So it isn't the reducer gear
bearing, because it's not spinning when the vehicle is stopped, idling.

When or if it gets louder, I will press on with diagnosing it.

Will probably be doing that external filer today...