Cvt delayed engagement all of a sudden

[Dosmastr]

2011 Rogue sv 158k miles

Just got a call (haven't driven it myself yet)
From a start it creeps and creeps, sometimes seemingly ignoring the accelerator, sometimes revving up and then "catching"
Does it on every start from stop. Was fine yesterday.
A few miles up the road it seemed to improve somewhat.
But then barely backed out of a parking spot....

No lights on dash yet.

I changed the fluid at 120k with genuine Nissan, the old fluid looked and smelled close to the new fluid.
Did the plugs and cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor a couple thousand ago.


How screwed am I?

[Dosmastr]

And now the traction control light and traction control OFF lights are illuminated.

Reverses 10ft and then halts. Have to put in drive and go forward a little to reverse more

[VStar650CL]

Forward and reverse on the '10A tran-nies both employ the belt. Sounds like either the belt has gone south or there's no pressure to work the pulleys and clutches. Unless you've lost fluid without realizing it, all the possibilities are pretty catastrophic. Bad belt, bad pump, or bad Valve Body.

[Dosmastr]

It just started today, only happens from stop, long as rolling, it's not near as bad. Once it does "catch" I'm told it's normal.

Gpt was sure it's the output speed sensor lol...
On interrogation it says the traction control lights are what give confidence but I know how wrong it can be.

I'll try to get my code reader on it tonight if I can find what I did with it.
Speedo I'm told is functioning normally.

How do I narrow down which part is most likely the failure?

[VStar650CL]

CVTz50. You need to see what the line and pulley pressures look like.

[Dosmastr]

OK, test drove myself.

I have a p0703 code for brake switch when I pull transmission codes. Also brake lights don't appear to be responding.
Is there some kind of lockout which doesn't let you ruin something by standing on both pedals? (or it thinks you are)

It creeps backwards just fine at idle, but when you give it gas it's like hold up something is wrong. When given throttle in reverse Engine seems to both not respond but also very slightly bog down.
I got out on the road and stepped on it, did seem to lack power.

Also, in neutral it seems like it like it takes extra time to Rev up when the throttle is pressed a bit hard. Maybe I just never noticed. Idk. No noises.

Pressures not sure I pulled the right ones but according to obd2 link line pressure baseline is 0.8 but it went up over 6.
This was a trip around the block, parked shut off, restarted , reved to 4k and then pulled pids.

I was driving so I couldn't focus on it but I didn't noticed the secondary speed sensor values changing from what they plausibly could be given speed. It gives the value in RPM so that's hard lol.

[VStar650CL]

Is there some kind of lockout which doesn't let you ruin something by standing on both pedals? (or it thinks you are)

Lol yep, no Nissan CVT will let you go anyplace with the brake pedal pressed. There are two throws on the pedal switch which work opposite one another, sounds like both throws on your switch are stuck. Probably the switch's internal return spring broke. Try a new switch.

Your line pressure is a little low but the TCM still has good control of the secondary, so that shouldn't be preventing it from normal operation. That primary pressure can't be right, but maybe that's a scanner artifact. Try clearing the P0703 after a new switch and see what happens.

[VStar650CL]

Oh, hey, check your brake light fuse too, since the bulbs are out. P0703 implies the BCM thinks the A throw is working, which is kind of weird because A should be for the lamps, B should be for the BCM and ABS.

[Dosmastr]

I messed with the switch and did get it to momentarily work.
I had to take it out and clean it a 3 or 4 year's ago because car was acting wierd (probably like this lol)
This time I'll replace.

I remember last time the two circuits agreed, not were inverted. Both said on or off depending on state.

One other oddity, often the first run of the day it feels like on reverse it just isn't.... Idk how to explain. It's kinda like you need to give it more gas than you should to move but I don't feel the car shifting upwards like would happen if the parking brake was a little stuck (plus you feel it let go when hit the pedal)
Then going forward it's a little of the same until maybe 5mph is broken and it feels like it clocks into gear kinda sorta.

I did find one other post with a similar comment but there wasn't a resolution. I'm wondering if it's the rear diff. It seemed like the one front wheel was not spinning the speed it should as Wifie backed out a few days ago, it's a rock parking spot. But TCS light isn't coming on during those.
This is a much longer running issue which uh... Maybe there's some connection?
https://www.nissanclub.com/threads/loud ... up.267484/

Saw another comment talking more like I am here but not finding it yet.


As for lowish pressure, could It be explained by maybe being under filled when I changed the fluid?

[Dosmastr]

Brake light switch tested OK but I still replaced it.
Code didn't self clear but misbehavior has stopped!
So I cleared it lol

Thank you again so much!

[VStar650CL]

You can't test those switches except by using two ohmmeters and a lot of screwing around. What happens is that the side for the lamps has a relatively high current load, the side for the BCM and ABS is a signal line which carries almost no load. Over time, that can eat away the lamp side contacts to the point where they're no longer synchronous with the other side. When one side reads "on" but the other still reads "off", that's when stuff starts throwing codes. Why they made the tran-ny dependent on the lamp side (which fails frequently) and not the signal side (which fails almost never) is a different question. In engineering terms, that's a silly mistake, but it's a mistake which has been repeated for years over the entire Nissan product line. Go figure.


Anyway, happy to help and glad you got it resolved.

[Dosmastr]

You can't test those switches except by using two ohmmeters and a lot of screwing around.

Yeah I just did simple continuity test and it seemed OK.
But that's far from operating conditions - as you explained

They can't change it, changing it would admit it was a problem, and then they are liable LOL (cries)

[VStar650CL]

No, actually, I'm pretty sure the problem originated because of trying to interface Bosch ABS's with Hitachi TCM's and ECM's. The units have different input requirements and the simplest (although obviously not the best) workaround was a synchronous DPST switch. Now the basic design is embedded like a tick across the whole product line, so changing it would be big bucks and a lot of coordination. Sometimes getting designs to production using multiple vendors just works out that way.