Friends:
am about to replace the left side CV joint/tansaxle on my '97 Maxima. I'd like to replace the transmission's output shaft seal as part of the job, of course, but RockAuto lists at least 3 different shaft sizes! Anyone know how to identify these details? Is there a master grid of say, Trans numbers with appropriate part numbers or sizes such as this?
Anyone know where I can find the seal 'guide tool' as referenced in the manual, or do you all skip this?
...and thanks for your great notes on this site - you've all been very helpful!
Thanks, Lou
CV Transaxle Seal Sizes?
Re: CV Transaxle Seal Sizes?
Lou, welcome to NICO.
As for the axle shaft seal, get the part direct from Nissan. That way you don't have to worry about getting the wrong seal.
Don't worry about the guid tool, you can just as easily use a similarly sized socket to press the seal into place.
As for the axle shaft seal, get the part direct from Nissan. That way you don't have to worry about getting the wrong seal.
Don't worry about the guid tool, you can just as easily use a similarly sized socket to press the seal into place.
Re: CV Transaxle Seal Sizes?
maxhopper -
Tks for that input. I was actually asking about a protective guide tool which installation instructions suggest - presumably protects the new seal from the sharp splines of the transaxle. Anyway, I was ready to simulate this by cutting up a thin-walled water bottle, or similar, but really didn't need to.
Was able to - very carefully - get the splined length back in the transaxle case with no contact against the seal. Worked great!
Easily managed to press for the seal with the round edge of a very large socket.
Now I've got new problems with this car - like I can't start it! (Other problems, other posts!)
Tks for that input. I was actually asking about a protective guide tool which installation instructions suggest - presumably protects the new seal from the sharp splines of the transaxle. Anyway, I was ready to simulate this by cutting up a thin-walled water bottle, or similar, but really didn't need to.
Was able to - very carefully - get the splined length back in the transaxle case with no contact against the seal. Worked great!
Easily managed to press for the seal with the round edge of a very large socket.
Now I've got new problems with this car - like I can't start it! (Other problems, other posts!)
Re: CV Transaxle Seal Sizes?
I agree with Max about using Nissan seals. I've had hit and miss results with an aftermarket brand named National. Also, once you remove the axle, then a new seal should be installed as the risk of leaking on the 2nd installation is good from what I read. Seals for automatics seems to slide in by using my fingers. A large socket matched to the outer seal (solid) edge will work for sure.
For the manual transmission, I've found I cannot press in the seal by just using my fingers. I made a tool that is long enough to extend out to the wheel area by using PVC pipe (sized to match the outer seal solid area) with a coupling to keep the edge from fraying -- then get a helper to tap the pipe at as I guide it in by referencing positions like 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and etc..
For the manual transmission, I've found I cannot press in the seal by just using my fingers. I made a tool that is long enough to extend out to the wheel area by using PVC pipe (sized to match the outer seal solid area) with a coupling to keep the edge from fraying -- then get a helper to tap the pipe at as I guide it in by referencing positions like 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and etc..
Re: CV Transaxle Seal Sizes?
I think I may have generated some confusion here; wasn't talking about pressing the seal in, I was talking about a 'spline protection' tool, which the manual references, but which no one seems to have.
No matter, using a lot of care, I doubt the splines ever even contacted the seal.
And I've been using Timken replacements - they fit perfectly! Thanks to all for your help here on the forum.
No matter, using a lot of care, I doubt the splines ever even contacted the seal.
And I've been using Timken replacements - they fit perfectly! Thanks to all for your help here on the forum.
-
NutriaforBreakfast
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:41 pm
- Car: Nissan Maxima 1995 VQDE engine
Re: CV Transaxle Seal Sizes?
I put in a drivers/left side CV axle two weeks ago. They gave me the wrong size
seal from Oreilleys. Luckily the old seal was still good so I didn't change it out.
Yes get the seal from Nissan.
The NIssan parts department recommended I get CV axles from other vendors
outside Nissan as well. Nissan shows the shafts are about $300 each while the
other vendors are around $60 each. They didn't even try to sell me one.
When ordering the CV axles you need to know if the car has LSD (limited slip differential)
and/or ABS brakes. I gave Nissan my VIN# and they said they couldn't tell me whether
it did or not (VIN not helpful). They said I needed the transmission plate # for the
LSD reference but I think that is covered up by other stuff under the hood.
You have to be really careful making the "stab" into the transaxle as that cv joint is
heavy and cumbersome. I wrapped up the rubber boots in rags with electric tape to
avoid cutting them on cotter pins and such. MIne actually went in and out ok-just had
a lot of problems getting the axle nut off.
The directions in the shop manual actually advise you to remove the passenger/right
cv axle first then remove the left one. I guess I might do it that way if the left one
won't come out.
seal from Oreilleys. Luckily the old seal was still good so I didn't change it out.
Yes get the seal from Nissan.
The NIssan parts department recommended I get CV axles from other vendors
outside Nissan as well. Nissan shows the shafts are about $300 each while the
other vendors are around $60 each. They didn't even try to sell me one.
When ordering the CV axles you need to know if the car has LSD (limited slip differential)
and/or ABS brakes. I gave Nissan my VIN# and they said they couldn't tell me whether
it did or not (VIN not helpful). They said I needed the transmission plate # for the
LSD reference but I think that is covered up by other stuff under the hood.
You have to be really careful making the "stab" into the transaxle as that cv joint is
heavy and cumbersome. I wrapped up the rubber boots in rags with electric tape to
avoid cutting them on cotter pins and such. MIne actually went in and out ok-just had
a lot of problems getting the axle nut off.
The directions in the shop manual actually advise you to remove the passenger/right
cv axle first then remove the left one. I guess I might do it that way if the left one
won't come out.