cv boot torn,can i re boot or need new axle
cv boot torn,can i re boot or need new axle
helo i have a 95 a-32 maxima auto,its puked the grease out of the pass side outter(closest to hub) boot.can it be rebooted or should i just get another axle?it is a new injury and its not making noise,also the rip is small at this time. also ive not done a fwd cv r&r before just the rwd ones on turbo zx's and 240sx's this appears a lil more involved.any input ?:help
you can just reboot it.
1] with the car on the ground ,remove your center cap on your wheel and remove the cotter pin on the axel shaft nut. 2] take a half inch 2 foot breaker bar with a 36mm or 32 mm soket on it and loosen the nut for the axel.3] loosen the lug nuts and lif the car off the ground. remove the tire.4] near where the strut mounts to the spindle the brake line for the caliper is attached with a fork clip,remove it.5] if you have ABS remove the 10mm bolt(s) holding that cable to the strut6] remove the 2 bolts holding the spindle to the strut. 7] at this point the spindle and lower control arm should have dropped and have somewhat free movement. with the axel nut fully removed try hitting the axel back in through the spindle.( this may require some soaking with rust penetrate depending on how rusted the splines are.) WARNING: use a rubber or plastic mallet to knock it through if you use a metal hammer you will distroy the CV joint threads.8] once you have it removed from the spindle you will need to knock the end joint off.slice the boot so it will knock off freely. now get a big a$$ metal hammer[ 3lb sledge works well] and hit the joints outer egde to knock it off the axel shaft.9] Reboot the axel pack the grease that came with the new boot into the cv joint and position the cv joint on the end of the shaft so it is perfectly lined up. It will slide on about 5 or so mm and stop against the retainer ring. This is the hardest part of this job you need to be 100 % sure that retainer ring is going to compress when you smack the end of it to knock it back on. best way to do this is make sure the gap in the retainer ring is pointed upward. make sure the ring is compressed enough to not be roller over the splines at the bottom. Basically that ring should be in the gap all the way around the axel and no light should be seen between the ring and the axel.
from this point on it is simply reassemble everything.
1] with the car on the ground ,remove your center cap on your wheel and remove the cotter pin on the axel shaft nut. 2] take a half inch 2 foot breaker bar with a 36mm or 32 mm soket on it and loosen the nut for the axel.3] loosen the lug nuts and lif the car off the ground. remove the tire.4] near where the strut mounts to the spindle the brake line for the caliper is attached with a fork clip,remove it.5] if you have ABS remove the 10mm bolt(s) holding that cable to the strut6] remove the 2 bolts holding the spindle to the strut. 7] at this point the spindle and lower control arm should have dropped and have somewhat free movement. with the axel nut fully removed try hitting the axel back in through the spindle.( this may require some soaking with rust penetrate depending on how rusted the splines are.) WARNING: use a rubber or plastic mallet to knock it through if you use a metal hammer you will distroy the CV joint threads.8] once you have it removed from the spindle you will need to knock the end joint off.slice the boot so it will knock off freely. now get a big a$$ metal hammer[ 3lb sledge works well] and hit the joints outer egde to knock it off the axel shaft.9] Reboot the axel pack the grease that came with the new boot into the cv joint and position the cv joint on the end of the shaft so it is perfectly lined up. It will slide on about 5 or so mm and stop against the retainer ring. This is the hardest part of this job you need to be 100 % sure that retainer ring is going to compress when you smack the end of it to knock it back on. best way to do this is make sure the gap in the retainer ring is pointed upward. make sure the ring is compressed enough to not be roller over the splines at the bottom. Basically that ring should be in the gap all the way around the axel and no light should be seen between the ring and the axel.
from this point on it is simply reassemble everything.
ok im in the middle of this ,and this is one giant grease pie!anyways after i put the joint back on and it goes on 5mm or so then rests agianst the retainer ring then i whack it,how far dose it need to go on dose the ratianer ring go all the way throught the splines on the joint about a 1.5 inches or so ?? or when i look down in there how much of the splines should i ba able to see (on the axle part)
about a 1/4 inch of the splines will still be visable. when you hit it it will have a feel to it that it cleared the ring. Hard to describe this since it is all feel but it would have been tension then almost imediate release as it slid on the shaft. one hit would have been all that was really needed to knock it on. As long as you didnt have to repeately beat on it as hard as you can you should be ok.
You do have the boot on already right!
You do have the boot on already right!
yep i got it it was that dang ring but i finally pulled my head out and noticed the extra rings in the nissan bag put a new on on and away i went thanks for all the help. i just wasnt sure since i really didnt see inside there that well when i took it apart becuase of all the grime and then fighting the ring i just thought it should be going smoother and i should ask although you did say that that part of the job would be the hardest btw how tight should that axel nut be ?