cv boot or bearing???
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silviaDRAG
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:59 pm
cv boot or bearing???
I was reading in the forum and wondering if a newbie could replace the cv boot? and if I bought it new how much would it cost? also I people say it is the bearing that is messed up on my 240sx and I should replace that if it is how much would that run and could I just pick that up at an autozone? last if anyone could tell me what is wrong with my car that could help or which I should really fix first or should I do it all together? My problem with the car is that sometimes when I go in reverse I hear a horrible scraping and sometimes when I go forward. It seems to be coming from the rear right of the car. if someone could help with my problem it would be greatly appreciated.
CV boots should not be replaced. If your CV boot has cracked and the grease leaked out, you are now driving your car with an ungreased CV joint. CV joints with boots on them are not re-greaseable. If the problem is indeed your CV joint, then replacing the boot is not doing a complete job, and will not fix your noise. The entire axle shaft must be replaced. In the most extreme of scenarios, the joint will break and you'll be stranded, so get your car to a reputable shop that you trust to do good work. Either that or to the dealer. If you aren't sure about if you can fix/replace a CVaxle, and/or a bearing assembly, then you need to take it to a professional.
I would urge you to take it to a shop so they can at least diagnose the problem you are having.
I would urge you to take it to a shop so they can at least diagnose the problem you are having.
I have the same scraping sound in reverse. Near as I can tell, the CV boots are intact on my car. Nor is it a wheel bearing. You would hear that at ALL speeds, not just in reverse.
I believe the sound is the rear brake pads binding up. I only hear it when I've put on the e-brake and left the car to sit for a while. And I've done an empirical study by leaving the car parked just in gear (someplace safe, of course) and then gone back to it, voila, no more scraping sound. So someday I have to get off my lazy keister and adjust the handbrake.
Check your rear pads and adjust the handbrake before you get into replacing CV joints and bearings. A bad CV joint or bearing will be noticeable all the time, not just in reverse.
I believe the sound is the rear brake pads binding up. I only hear it when I've put on the e-brake and left the car to sit for a while. And I've done an empirical study by leaving the car parked just in gear (someplace safe, of course) and then gone back to it, voila, no more scraping sound. So someday I have to get off my lazy keister and adjust the handbrake.
Check your rear pads and adjust the handbrake before you get into replacing CV joints and bearings. A bad CV joint or bearing will be noticeable all the time, not just in reverse.
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silviaDRAG
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:59 pm
adjustment?
what do I check for when looking for the the cv joint or the bearing and also how do I adjust the e-brake exactly I was really needing to adjust that to because when I pull up for the park the e-brake goes way to high for the brake contact the rotors.
Get underneath the rear of the car and look towards each rear wheel hub, you will see an accordion-style rubber boot. If it is intact, and doesn't appear to be leaking, then chances are it's fine. If it's broken or you see grease emerging from it, then it's going south and needs to be replaced.
As for bearings, that involves removing the rear hubs. When you look at the bearings, they should be well greased and not have metallic flakes floating about. As I said before, I don't think you have a bearing problem, a bad wheel bearing lets itself be known pretty easily, in my experience.
To adjust the handbrake, pull it up...underneath the plastic boot, there is a small hole (facing towards the engine). In that hole there's a small hex nut that adjusts the handbrake travel. The manual specifies 6-8 clicks travel is normal. If you have more or less average clicks than that, turn the nut until you're within that range.
I believe mine has too many (like 12-14 clicks) so I need to adjust mine down.
As for bearings, that involves removing the rear hubs. When you look at the bearings, they should be well greased and not have metallic flakes floating about. As I said before, I don't think you have a bearing problem, a bad wheel bearing lets itself be known pretty easily, in my experience.
To adjust the handbrake, pull it up...underneath the plastic boot, there is a small hole (facing towards the engine). In that hole there's a small hex nut that adjusts the handbrake travel. The manual specifies 6-8 clicks travel is normal. If you have more or less average clicks than that, turn the nut until you're within that range.
I believe mine has too many (like 12-14 clicks) so I need to adjust mine down.
Could be...could be...
I tightened up my e-brake and fixed my sound. I also found that if I pump the brakes a few times after starting the car for the first time, it resets the pads in the calipers and the sound doesn't occur. So mine WAS actually the pads binding to the rotors. Ha ha! I actually fixed something. I'm going to buy myself a beer now. Or six.
I tightened up my e-brake and fixed my sound. I also found that if I pump the brakes a few times after starting the car for the first time, it resets the pads in the calipers and the sound doesn't occur. So mine WAS actually the pads binding to the rotors. Ha ha! I actually fixed something. I'm going to buy myself a beer now. Or six.