CV axle change

[BrianG]

I'm going to tackle both CV axles. It started with a pulsing feeling in the brake pedal. I knew this as the rotors beginning to warp and they needed changing. My 2001 pathfinder has 148k miles on the clock and I thought it was about time for new rotors and pads. I pulled the wheel off and started looking around and noticed some grease splatters in the wheel well. Crap! I looked at the CV boot and it had a 2in tear in it. Crap! I looked at the other side and same thing.. Crap... I ordered two new complete CV axles from O'reilly's. I'm not worried about the job just a little confused about getting them out from under the truck. I've read in the service manual that I should remove the bolts from the transverse link fixing nut and bolts, the ones that attach to the under body. This is to allow more room to pull the CV axle out. Now I've also read in another forum where they recommend removing the three bolts holding the ball joint on the lower part of the knuckle spindle. I've also read one guy stating that all he did was turn the wheel all the way to in one direction to wiggle the axle out. I don't want to disconnect anything that might not go back together easily.

So, which is the easier and recommended procedure?

*Update: I changed both CV axles, both rotors and new pads. It took with breaks and cleaning all the parts about 10hrs. The service manual was helpful and I followed it pretty much step by step for the drivers side. I mixed up some steps on the other side because it made more sense to me. I tried to wiggle it out every which way I thought of but it just wasn't happening. I unbolted the forward bolt and just loosened the two rear bolts on the drive link to get the axle out. I needed to use my 24in breaker bar since the torque on them is 100 ftlbs. It's a lot of work but if you've got the time you'll save a boatload of money doing it yourself.. If you have any questions I'd be happy to answer...

[maxmileage]

Did this job a few months ago. If you go with the proper method of dropping the lower control arm then be sure to replace the bolts with new ones. In fact, any bolt under there that is removed should technically be replaced. I have done mine without dropping the arm out. It is tight but can be done. I would recommend following the procedure in the service manual if it is your first time getting under there. But, the quickest way is to remove the two bolts holding the steering knuckle to the struts and let it hang out on the lower ball joint. It WILL be a tight fit but works that way just fine. Keys to easy install are. unbolt and hang brake rotor on the spring, remove ABS sensor gently(it is probably in there pretty tight and it doesn't have much to grab onto, be careful with it) MOST IMPORTANT ON INSTALL OF NEW CV, DO NOT FORGET TO TAKE THE WASHER OFF YOUR OLD CV AND PUT IT ONTO THE NEW CV! There is one for each side on the inboard side of the axle. The washer will either come out when you remove the old axle or it could be left behind. either way, retrieve it, clean it up and put it on the new cv before installing. Use good clean grease on the splines. And finally it is always a good idea to douse everything that you will unbolt/remove with PB Blaster a couple days before you plan on doing the job. I replaced CV, Ball joints, and suspension at the same time. Had a couple bolts on the struts that took about 8hrs to get out. Just be patient and Follow the Service Manual. Good Luck