Custom intake "problem" >.<*

[gingerbredman]

okay, so i relocated my battery to the trunk today, and i remember seeing a post on a custom intake where the fact. battery location is. so i do it. well i left disconnected: the 2 lines that went to the top of the intake tube, and that humongous one on the bottom that goes to... well idn. but i think thats the problem. and also, the car will crank up, but when it goes back down to an idle, it will die, and the line from upper right of the TB sputters smoke... so im going to plug everything thats disconnected up and hope that fixes things. ugh ive been working on this all afternoon, hope someone can help, if i cant get to run that is.. i really dont want to put the stock chopped up intake back on

[JeromeS13]

If its connected to the stock intake tubing, you probably need it...................

-Jerome

[wa-chiss]

yeah, the big one goes to the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Very important if you want your car to idle.

[gingerbredman]

Wheeeww i got it guys, fortunately i found some heater hose that was the right inside diameter and long enough as to where i could loop it around and hook up to where the hose that came to the valve cover was without it crimping on me. yeah the more i thought about it, i narrowed it down to the iacv. i left everything else as is, it runs nice n smooth now but i cant tell you the performance difference it's made as its late and cops are out. its pretty ghetto i gotta say but i'll upgrade to 3" pipe and REAL couplings lol soon, and im gonna make a heat shield too. yeh a 2 hour job my a$$.. but i feel good now. btw i dont know if all 240s are like this, but when i give it gas when it's warmed up, the motor races but it stays at that rpm for about a second or 2 before coming back down to an idle, so you cant really tell the response difference. the pedal's not stuck, the throttle cable isn't stuck, the throttle pulley isn't stuck. i bet an 11lb flywheel and an aluminum driveshaft would fix that ..bleh im gone to bed im beat, thanks guys for the advice

[WWJD]

did your Idle do that before or after you riged your intake?

3' tube is over kill. keep it the same size as your TB opening. remember your n/a. Flywheel & drive shaft wont help with your problems you talk about

[gingerbredman]

true your right, i'll stick with 2". as far as the stuck throttle, it's done that since i got the car last year, but it doesnt really affect driveability though so idn

[malten02]

I just wonder what the rear battery move does?

[WWJD]

more wight in the back and more room under the hood

gingerbredman... take a look at your TB. check to see if your missing a very small threaded rod with the end having a slit in it for a flat head screw driver and it should have a lock nut. when I get my car it was missen' and my TB would stick. you could adjust it so it wont stick or get on if it not there

[gingerbredman]

hmm, alrighty i'll do that. 2morrow though cause its dark. thanks man i cant stand it when it does that..makes it sound like an old unresponsive truck motor but yes better weight distribution= better grip,handling. PLUS room for intercooler piping in the future

[malten02]

so if i was to enter an indy car race with my 89. Should i move the battery to the back first??? or during a pit stop?

[WWJD]

LOL the TB would bet stuck @ red lights right so then I would have to tap the thotle to unstick it right, LOL so hondas thought I was reving on them. then they would hella launch. then at the next light I'd have to show them who had a real car

[WWJD]

IF you were to enter..... dude give it up with your post. If your not gonna be helpful you shouldn't post

[JeromeS13]

so if i was to enter an indy car race with my 89. Should i move the battery to the back first??? or during a pit stop?

Dude, you need to stop being a jackass. Battery relocation serves numerous purposes. Also, it is a very common modification with our vehicles.

Go watch some more Tokyo Drift....

-Jerome

[malten02]

Hey guys, i am really sorry for being such a jackass. I was seriosly wondering what the reasoning was for this because i just never heard of this and the 240 seems like the only car that this is a major mod for.

[plane16j]

[gingerbredman]

ok ok i'll get some pics up asap, im on lunch break bout to get back to work, but i'll be sure to post'em up hey just for kicks, this icon reminded me of Fast and the Furious lol, you know the first scene with the Eclipse? well...count how many times he shifts heh just somethin to think about

[gingerbredman]

alright it was night so bear with me guys hope these pics turn out, anyhow sorry for the wait, it's really nothing special. i had to cut about 1" off the TB boot, cut the MAF boot to make a coupling, and luckily had a 2" pvc elbow laying around to link it all together. i'm gonna try and get some sheet metal and make a shield, as well as get some aluminum piping to kinda...clean it up lol.

[gingerbredman]

cool that worked, well if you guys, or really anybody is going to do this, the cheapest and easiest way to go is go to Autozone and get the 16' jumper cables, they're also 4 gauge which is plenty good. if you go to a local shop to get you some wire they charge out the butt for it. they tried to charge me $65 for 2 10' cables, 4 gauge. f that man! cut the clamps off close as you can! run that wire from starter to however far back you want your battery, for me it took every bit of that 16 footer. i ran a ground from the battery to a bolt right behind the license plate, i'll run more later, but she cranks and runs just as good as ever!! OH! another benefit of batt in trunk? no heat! heat kills batteries, cooler running batteries last longer, hold charge etc all that good stuff better

[WWJD]

well how's it fell.......

[-RJ-]

just thought id show mine too. it only costs me 15 dollars for the piping =D i love being cheap

[WWJD]

that look really nice. Why didn't it come like that in the first place...?

[gingerbredman]

yeah it is anyhow, are you running an aftermarket air sensor or a MAP sensor??

[-RJ-]

im have the stock one

[gingerbredman]

ah newer model 240 that's a sweet intake though well thanks guys for seeing me through, next up eibach springs!!
Modified by gingerbredman at 8:28 PM 9/5/2007

[irichjohn]

rj how much u spend for ur intake?

[dnlx5]

i did the exact same thing (battery in the back) but i used too small a cable and i am having starting issues also where did u run your ground cable did u ground it in the back or did you run it all the way back up front. As for the intake side i got a cheap elbow from O rieles and i think the maf sensor is actually suposed to be a certin distance from the throttle body to acutally read correctly but its fine. i also have that issue where after driving hard it takes a second to fall back into idle i always thought it was ok. (i have an 11lb fidanza flywheel and cm stage 1 clutch) i have a kae. cheap mods RULE almost as much as DIY mods sry no pics

[-RJ-]

rj how much u spend for ur intake?

15 dollars for the pipes and 20 bucks for the filter

[gingerbredman]

there it is as of now, its a 60* bend PLASTIC pipe but it works. oh as far as the battery wires and whatnot, that red thing that used to on top of the pos terminal i ran a wire from it to the starter (its the red wire you see). i wrapped the red thing with electrical tape and put it aside. i ran the pos cable from the starter all the way to the back, no splicing, to the battery. i ran a ground from the battery to a bolt behind the license plate ( top right) sanded around it, also ran another ground to one of bolts where the tailights and stuff are. everything works like normal, no probs here oh my car wont go all the down to an idle until i actually come to a complete stop, so idn what the deal is with that. oh i also found out that if you cut off that little rubber grommet thing on the throttle cable, it wont bind up when you give it gas. well actually idn i just did it lol