Crankshaft Pully Removal
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Crankshaft Pully Removal
Ok, I need to get my crankshaft pully off so I can get my front cover off to install mytiming chain. But I can't seem to keep my crankshaft pully from rotating whenever I try to loosen the bolt holding it on. Does anyone have some advise on how to keep the pully from moving? I've allready tried holding it still with a prybar about 2 1/2 feet long but that doesn't seem to work. All I need to do to get my car running is to install this timing chain so I'm kind of anxious to get it on. Ryan
Or if its an automatic, us a long-handled chain wrench on the pulley with a piece of old belt under the chain.
Actually, there is an amazingly easy shortcut to getting the bolt off, but if you can't keep the pulley still, you won't be able to torque the bolt back on. You could just put your breaker bar/socket on the bolt, rest the bar against the frame, remove the injector/ignition fuses, and pop the starter a couple times. Again, no sense in removing the bolt till you have a way to get it back on to the right torque.
Actually, there is an amazingly easy shortcut to getting the bolt off, but if you can't keep the pulley still, you won't be able to torque the bolt back on. You could just put your breaker bar/socket on the bolt, rest the bar against the frame, remove the injector/ignition fuses, and pop the starter a couple times. Again, no sense in removing the bolt till you have a way to get it back on to the right torque.
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encasemyheart
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When installing my pulley I just put the car in gear (5th gear) got my bigger socket wrench that would fit and a long metal pipe to add to the mechanical advantage. Once you do all this it's just a matter or breaking the bolt so to speak. You need to quickly and sharply jerk the pipe and it will break the bolt loose before it can turn. Even in 5th gear, if you move slowly with this the pulley will turn, so you have to go fast.
After the bolt comes off is the real hard part...
After the bolt comes off is the real hard part...
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Well, I chose the "put in gear" method. Except I chose to put it in reverse, and to also have my buddies girlfriend stand on the brake pedal to keep the car from moving whatsoever. Worked pretty good. I also put a pipe on the wrench to increase my leverage, I just chose a PVC one instead. After that the pully came off without to much trouble. Now it's just to get everything else off so I can get my timing chain on. Also, my service manual says you need to take off the power steering pump, oil pump, and oil pan. I was wandering if all these were necessary. The only thing I have probs with is the oil pan. But I guess if I need to take it off I will. Also, it looks like the distributer needs to come out/off, does anyone know if it does? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just anxious to get this all done finally.Ryan
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NISMOdrift240
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TheDrumAndTheBass wrote:Well, I chose the "put in gear" method. Except I chose to put it in reverse, and to also have my buddies girlfriend stand on the brake pedal to keep the car from moving whatsoever. Worked pretty good. I also put a pipe on the wrench to increase my leverage, I just chose a PVC one instead. After that the pully came off without to much trouble. Now it's just to get everything else off so I can get my timing chain on. Also, my service manual says you need to take off the power steering pump, oil pump, and oil pan. I was wandering if all these were necessary. The only thing I have probs with is the oil pan. But I guess if I need to take it off I will. Also, it looks like the distributer needs to come out/off, does anyone know if it does? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just anxious to get this all done finally.Ryan
yep. distributor out (pain in the azz), oil pan off (pain in the azz). you have alot of work ahead of you man, i know personally. good luck. just make sure youre stocked with beer, and there are no kids around when you start swearing.
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encasemyheart
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Magnes
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Why does the oil pan have to come off?
I'm planning to change the POS tension-side timing chain guide, and was hoping I could just get the front cover off by cutting the silicone seal to the oil pan.
Oooorrr.... Does the oil pan have a lip that prevents the front cover from coming off? Yikes I don't wanna remove the pan!
I'm planning to change the POS tension-side timing chain guide, and was hoping I could just get the front cover off by cutting the silicone seal to the oil pan.
Oooorrr.... Does the oil pan have a lip that prevents the front cover from coming off? Yikes I don't wanna remove the pan!
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NISMOdrift240
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Magnes wrote:Why does the oil pan have to come off?
I'm planning to change the POS tension-side timing chain guide, and was hoping I could just get the front cover off by cutting the silicone seal to the oil pan.
Oooorrr.... Does the oil pan have a lip that prevents the front cover from coming off? Yikes I don't wanna remove the pan!
the oil pump is attatched to the front cover, and hangs down into the oil pan. no way of getting the front cover off otherwise....ive tried.
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NISMOdrift240
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for reference, im talking the DE motor in my S14. The oil pump is internal. It is bolted to the front cover on the inside, and hangs down into the pan. there is no way to get the front cover off without dropping the pan. I have tried, and broke the crank seal trying.
Dropping the oil pan requires dropping half the suspension. not to mention too, if youre like me and have sportlines (or another spring), even with a jack, it doesnt leave much room for us to be dropping suspensions underneath.
If you dont wanna mess with it, or doubt being able to do it, then dont. saves ya a headache. wish ya luck man.
Dropping the oil pan requires dropping half the suspension. not to mention too, if youre like me and have sportlines (or another spring), even with a jack, it doesnt leave much room for us to be dropping suspensions underneath.
If you dont wanna mess with it, or doubt being able to do it, then dont. saves ya a headache. wish ya luck man.
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Allllllll Righty Then!! I'm gonna try and clear some stuff up for us SOHC guys since I just got in from getting alot of this crap done.
1. The oil pump does need to come off, this is a very easy thing to do. So don't be afraid.2. The oil pan, does not. Only the 4 or so bolts in the front that bolt into the front cover.3. The distributor does not need to come off either. Just disconnect the wires that go to the plugs, and the ignition module.
Other then that, just make sure you have all the other bolts out, and hoses/cables/wires disconnected. I do however have a question when it comes to the chain tensioner. I can't seem to get the little piston thing to retract far enough into the tensioner unit, to get my chain to go high enough to reach the camshaft sprocket. I'll try to scan an image from one of my service manuals to help get a better idea. Other then that, all I need is to get everything back together (A day or so) and to get a injector, and I should be running. Eveyone wish me luck.Ryan
1. The oil pump does need to come off, this is a very easy thing to do. So don't be afraid.2. The oil pan, does not. Only the 4 or so bolts in the front that bolt into the front cover.3. The distributor does not need to come off either. Just disconnect the wires that go to the plugs, and the ignition module.
Other then that, just make sure you have all the other bolts out, and hoses/cables/wires disconnected. I do however have a question when it comes to the chain tensioner. I can't seem to get the little piston thing to retract far enough into the tensioner unit, to get my chain to go high enough to reach the camshaft sprocket. I'll try to scan an image from one of my service manuals to help get a better idea. Other then that, all I need is to get everything back together (A day or so) and to get a injector, and I should be running. Eveyone wish me luck.Ryan
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Magnes
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Interesting.
Is the cam timing properly set? If the chain is set too short on that side, it may require that the piston receed further than it was designed to and the camshafty or crankshaft wouldn't necessaritly turn very easily to give you the intended slack.
If that checks ok, try removing the piston and look inside at what's blocking it. There should be a small hole for the air to pass through to allow the piston to slide in and out as well. If the hole is clogged the piston won't move very far.
Another thought is that maybe the previous owner put a stopper behind the piston as a shadetree fix to take up the slack from the broken tension-side quide?
I'm assuming the parts you are using come from reputable sources?
Is the cam timing properly set? If the chain is set too short on that side, it may require that the piston receed further than it was designed to and the camshafty or crankshaft wouldn't necessaritly turn very easily to give you the intended slack.
If that checks ok, try removing the piston and look inside at what's blocking it. There should be a small hole for the air to pass through to allow the piston to slide in and out as well. If the hole is clogged the piston won't move very far.
Another thought is that maybe the previous owner put a stopper behind the piston as a shadetree fix to take up the slack from the broken tension-side quide?
I'm assuming the parts you are using come from reputable sources?
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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Ok, well I got my tensioner problem solved.Turns out the piston things that slind in and out was just jammed a little bit, now she slinds in and out no prob. So tommrw it's time to try and get everything back together. One thing a friend told me is that you don't need the chain guide, (see image, object b, indicated by the red arrow). Is there any truth to this. And if you don't need it, do you just remove the two bolts/posts that hold it on?Ryan
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Touchdown038
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Look at the surface of the guide. Is there visible wear from the chain rubbing against it? I'm sure there is. If the guide wasn't there, then the chain would be rubbing against something else and/or there would be an increased risk of the chain developing enough slack momentarily to jump off one of the sprockets. If there is a pronounced channel worn into the guide, then replace it.
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Magnes
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DON'T BELIEVE YOUR FRIEND!TheDrumAndTheBass wrote:...One thing a friend told me is that you don't need the chain guide, (see image, object b, indicated by the red arrow). Is there any truth to this. And if you don't need it, do you just remove the two bolts/posts that hold it on?Ryan
The only reason I am opening up that nasty part of my car is because that guide (object b) has broken.
The chain rattles like crazy, and now that I have it apart I have witnessed the havoc it wrecked: The front cover has a 2" gouge about 1/8" deep in the area between where the two gudie bolts are. The chain was cuting away at the bottom bolt (since it wasn't removed, the guide only wore away around it).
And to top it all, the right (passenger) side guide has snapped too! I was probably only a few thousand km away from total engine failure all because the P.O.S. left chain guide was poorly designed and has been broken since forever (it was rattling when I bought the car 3 years ago).
Your friend was probably confused with the DOHC model where the top guide (between the two camshafts) can apparently be removed.
BTW, weren't you replacing the guide because it had broken? Or was it some other maintenance you were doing in there? If the left (driver's) side guide isn't broken, make sure it is the plastic-covered steel kind instead of the full-plastic kind , they are the faulty ones.
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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No, the whole reason I was going through all this is beacuse I was having chain tensioner probs (Part A) and couldn't get my timing chain back on. It just happened my chain guide (Part B) wasn't there when I took my front cover off. But I'm now thinking I might as well just get a Timing Set (Chain, both sprokets, both chain guides, and a chain tensioner) from Auto Zone since I allready have everything apart.Ryan
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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OK, well I finally went and ordered a chain guide from Auto Zone, and they gave me two options the "Loose Side" or the "Tensioner Side". Well I chose the "Loose Side" thinking the thesioner side would be the side where the chain tensioner is, well apparently I was wrong. If you look atthe image I previously posted, I need the part labeled "B" with the blue arrow pointing to it. If anyone knows if this is the "Tensioner" or "Loose" side please let me know. I am desperate. I bought my 240 back in March and havent gotten to drive it yet cause I keep running into things I need to fix and I believe this to be the last one.Ryan
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Magnes
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Oh boy
The tensioner side IS the loose side.
What they probably meant to say is the 'tension' side which is where your part B goes, because that is where the chain is under tension in order to drives the camshaft.
It is very different from the loose side, where the tensioner is. (It simply keeps the LOOSE side of the chain from flopping around).
The tensioner side IS the loose side.
What they probably meant to say is the 'tension' side which is where your part B goes, because that is where the chain is under tension in order to drives the camshaft.
It is very different from the loose side, where the tensioner is. (It simply keeps the LOOSE side of the chain from flopping around).
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TheDrumAndTheBass
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I think it is a matter of precise terminology. Tensioner (object) side vs. tensioned (adjective) side. The same terms apply to pretty much any car with a timing chain. I'd sooner blame AutoZone for screwing up a transcription than Nissan. I bet if you bought the part from Nissan the part name on the label would be correct.