As the title says, which puller should i get to take off the crankshaft pulley for my 90 sohc motor? The one with jaws, 6", 8"?? Or do i get the harmonic balancer pulley which is really what i think your suppose to use. I do kinda have a hard time believing your suppose to use the jaw puller, because the only place it looks like you can grab from is on the inner most pulley itself. Won't that mess up your pulley, won't it bend it? Also, there are 4 bolts on the inside of the pulley do I need to take those off too if i use the claw? Or should i take off those bolts and use the harmonic balancer puller? Let me know. Thanks, Bob.
Modified by huntin5L at 2:36 AM 5/10/2007
Modified by huntin5L at 3:42 AM 5/10/2007
Modified by huntin5L at 4:14 AM 5/10/2007
Crankshaft Pulley, Which Puller To Get??
Re: Crankshaft Pulley, Which Puller To Get?? (huntin5L)
The pulley is more resilient than you would think. Its not going to break as long as you have your crank bolt loose. I put the feet behind the second pulley, the one thats raised from the front and rear ones.
As far as the length of the legs for the puller you want to buy, 6 or 8 both will work. I have one of the ones that you can change the length, its got feet(claws) on both ends and you can switch it around at will.
You dont need to pull your balancer to get your pulley off.
As far as the length of the legs for the puller you want to buy, 6 or 8 both will work. I have one of the ones that you can change the length, its got feet(claws) on both ends and you can switch it around at will.
You dont need to pull your balancer to get your pulley off.
Re: Crankshaft Pulley, Which Puller To Get?? (480sx)
Where is the balancer? So what about the 4 inner bolts on the outermost pulley, do they need to come off before i undo the main bolt and start using the puller?
Modified by huntin5L at 4:44 AM 5/10/2007
Modified by huntin5L at 4:45 AM 5/10/2007
Modified by huntin5L at 4:44 AM 5/10/2007
Modified by huntin5L at 4:45 AM 5/10/2007
Re: (180fan)
You do have to unloosen the main crank bolt before you use the puller right? What about those 4 bolts inside the crank pulley, do they have to come too?
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gniknave
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Re: (huntin5L)
You shouldn't need to remove the 4 bolts on the inside. Also, a little trick to make thing's easier... When you're going to remove the crank bolt, with your socket on the bolt, turn your torque wrench down into a position where it'll stay, then put your key in the ignition and just TAP the starter once or twice. Go back and check and your crank bolt should be loose. It's all a walk in the park from there. I've done this on a Q45 several times, and it's always a success. I'm trying to find the thread in which I first posted this trick (with pics)...
Re: (gniknave)
Now last question. The main bolt has to be loosened first right before using the puller? But somewhere i read it said do not take the bolt all the way off, because if you use the puller with the bolt of you could mess up the threads. Let me know, im gonna do this tonight
Re: (180fan)
Thanks, got it off, now that keyway on the end of the crank, does that need to come off, i wouldn't want to screw up the crank seal when the timing cover comes off. Little bit more and i have it off
Re: (huntin5L)
the 90 240 KA should be the same as my 94 hardbody KA. except you might have serp belts. but i used a harmonic balancer puller and it came right off like cake. as for the crank key, the pulley has a long shoulder on it because the key way is behind the timing cover. no worries about hurting the seal.
Re: (somedude)
Okay sounds good, now my only other question now is I undid the crank bolt and it may have shifted a little and now im worried about tdc. Does one of the timing marks show me exactly where TDC is? I have it set to the first mark starting from the left, is that correct?
Re: (huntin5L)
Well, that ends my wrenching. Found that my camshaft is broken in half. Didn't see it before until today. This probably means that my motor is fubar, damn interference motors. I can't say for sure this is the case, but if i was a betting man i would say it is safe to say it is done.
Re: (huntin5L)
Anyone know of a way to check to see how the pistons/valves are without taking the head off, like using a boroscope? Let me know, thanks Bob.
pull the front cover and remove the tensioner. set everything to tdc and put some zip ties on the cam sprocket.
remove the cam. don't put the new cam on just yet. We're just looking to close the valves. Pull the spark plugs. Shoot air into the intake side and feel through the opening where the spark plug is, if you can feel any air rushing out through that hole. repeat for exhaust side. if any of those sides fails, you're tearing down the motor.
remove the cam. don't put the new cam on just yet. We're just looking to close the valves. Pull the spark plugs. Shoot air into the intake side and feel through the opening where the spark plug is, if you can feel any air rushing out through that hole. repeat for exhaust side. if any of those sides fails, you're tearing down the motor.
Re: (180fan)
i'd just pull the head off. yeah i know you'd rather not if it wasn't nesecary. me either but with the head off that will let you actually see what has happened under there. if you did bend/break a valve, your gonna have to take the head off anyway. so just take it off anyway is my opinion.