Crankshaft Position Sensor replacement- 05 Altima 2.5S

General discussion area for the L31-chassis Altima, including the 05-06 SE-R models.
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diggles240
Posts: 518
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:27 pm
Car: 1996 240sx SE
2005 Altima 2.5S

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I currently have, what seems like, the infamous DTC P0335- CKPS code. It originated a few weeks ago, cycled through and the MIL disappeared (I was very skeptical of this of course). At the end of last week, it came back and over the weekend the car decided not to start. It is currently in my garage and still will not start

I tried to get the sensor out tonight, working from below the car, but no dice. So, I located it, could not seem to get the socket on (while the connector was still plugged in- hopefully I am totally stupid) and am quite frustrated. It seems like some have replaced the sensor from the top. I do not see how this is possible and I am a very skinny guy.

Do you pull out the connector by squeezing the green portion shown in the pic below? Any suggestions please. I have no skin on my forearm and refuse to pay someone else to do it at this point.



Thanks,Kevin


JunseiMotors
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2010 5:50 am
Car: 2010 Nissan Titan LE
2004 Acura RSX Type S - Supercharged
1986 Toyota AE86 GTS (hatch)
Location: Phoenix, Az

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Yes its possible from the top. Will require some removing of parts but I usually do it in bout 20 minutes. If I was at the dealership, id take pics of me doing one on a customer vehicle but its the weekend so youll have to do it like this. By the way, there is actually a TSB on that trouble code. Not to be confused with a recall. There is a CAM and CRANK kit sold for that code. Every time we get that code, the TSB says to replace both sensors and Nissan actually has a part number for the kit. If you'd like it, let me know and ill have the part number for you on Monday.

Tools Needed = Standard size flat head screw driver, 1/4 inch ratchet with about a 3 inch extension and a 6 point 10mm socket, some short, standard pliers (not needle nose), flash light and WD40

1:) Remove the engine cover (4 allen head bolts)

2:) Unsnap the air filter housing cover, loosen the intake tube at the throttle body. Undo the hose clamp from the smaller hose to the valve cover and remove complete assemble

3:) Grab a flash light, put urself over the engine and look down the number 3 and 4 intake runners. It would be the 1st and 2nd runners from the driver side. You'll see the connector at this point. BATH it in WD40 and let sit for about 2-3 minutes.

4:) Grab the flat head screw driver, lean over the car, stick your right arm down the side where the intake hose was all the way to the back side of engine where the connector is located. There is a little slot/notch on the green sliding connector with an arrow on it. Place the screw driver here and push firmly. Be careful not to damage. You'll see the tab start to slide down. push until it unlocks the connector from the sensor. Pull back on the harness while the screw driver is still on the tab, firmly, dont tug, youll rip the wires from the connector. If it dont come off, ur not pushing the green sliding tab far enough. TRUST ME!!!

5:) Grab your ratchet and socket, lean over again, break the 10mm bolt lose and remove.

6:) Grab your pliers, stick your arm down the back side again, grab the sensor with the pliers and turn it till it breaks lose and pull it back. Grab your new sensor, spray some WD40 on the o ring so that it slips in easily. Install the rest in the reverse manor. Now make sure when you put the connector back on, that it is ON. You'll know its not on because your check engine light will come back on at the turn of the key. Just tug on it firmly when its connected. Its a pain in the a**. This is why I use WD40. Makes everything better.

Now you're probably going to try this and seem like its impossible. It took me an hour when I first did it. I was so frustrated but I got it down to about 15 -20 minutes now. I do them everyday at our dealership. By the way, if you get the cam and crank kit, the sensors look identical. Except one has a white streak of paint on it. That one is the crank sensor. GOOD LUCK bro.


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diggles240
Posts: 518
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:27 pm
Car: 1996 240sx SE
2005 Altima 2.5S

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Thanks for the great description. I was able to finally figure this out after a lot of cursing and feeling a tremendous desire to to bash my car with breaker bar. I did not remove the air intake, so that did not help my cause by any means. Thank god I am a long armed skinny guy

I did purchase the two sensor kit- Part No. B3731-6N27K. Thanks again for your help.

Kevin

nissan05altima
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:31 pm
Car: 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Having this exact same problem. Trying to locate the sensor has been difficult. I've taken off the engine cover, air filter, air filter box. Still can't find it. See one with a white dot, don't think that is it.

Is it under the battery?

jem003
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:51 pm

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An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed-through wire insulation or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for:

-Poor connection - Inspect the ECM harness and connectors for improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal-to-wire connections.
-Damaged harness - Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, disconnect the ECM, turn the ignition ON and observe a voltmeter connected to the 58X reference circuit at the ECM harness connector while moving the connectors and the wiring harnesses related to the ECM. A change in voltage will indicate the location of the fault.
-Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.

2002NA
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:08 pm

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ive had this these two parts replaced and still getting 340 code


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