Cranks but wont start. Please help

[Statichardbodynoob]

Before I begin, I must state I'm not new to forums but I am to this particular one. That being said, I know how to use a search button and Google has been my friend for a long time. I have searched for awhile and can't find exactly my problem that has been solved. So here we go...

My 94 hardbody, ka24e 5spd, ran fine until one day it wouldn't start. No warning signs, just no longer getting spark. As I've worked on other cars all my life, I began troubleshooting. The distributor was swapped for a known working one, new cap, button to no avail. Swapped back to the other distributor since it obviously wasn't an issue but kept the new cap and button. Plug wires and plugs are new, I replaced the coil and ignition control module still nothing. The only trouble code it throws is 41 - Air temperature sensor circuit, which I've read is usually a bad MAF? But would this cause a no start condition involving no spark? All my fuseable links and connectors are fine, relay clicks everytime, I cleaned every ground I could find today, and had the battery tested at the parts store.

I'm pretty stumped, never had a vehicle be this stubborn starting. The battery is a pretty old optima. Even though it tested good out of the vehicle, it would still be possible that it's not giving enough juice with a load on it right? I had my battery charger on it for a few hours and attempted to start it, the charger dropped from 50% to 0. Seems like a huge pull, or the battery maybe shot to me but I'm guessing now. It turns over fine when the battery is charger but still no spark. I need to get another battery for my multimeter so I can see how many volts I'm getting when I'm cranking. I'm just running out of options with this truck and looking for some insight. Between school, work, and the wife and I are down to 1 car is limiting the time I even get to tinker with it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[nalz]

Does the distributor rotor spin when the engine is cranking? You've replaced most of the components involved with spark production, i think it's time to get a battery for your multimeter and verify power and ground to things like thr ignition module and coil, maybe the ECM if it's involved in spark. Once you have a working multimeter, then you can check for 10 volts or better, while cranking, to really gauge the battery's health (although i find the capacitive testers, that most auto parts places use, to be quite reliable)

[Statichardbodynoob]

I found the distributor to be 180 degrees out of time somehow. Got it back together and correctly oriented, just added a backfire after you let the key go now. Battery holds 12.50 volts no load, 11 volts while cranking. Haven't had anymore time today to mess with it. Gonna try probing for power with the multimeter tomorrow. Anyway to test the ecu? This truck is giving me a headache

[Statichardbodynoob]

Update

Found a FSM pdf online and started probing the old girl with the multimeter. Did not get power from ecu pins 38, 47, and 109. So checked the terminals 1 and 3 of the main relay, no voltage either. So maybe the relay that would click when I turned the ignition on had to be another one or maybe it's intermittent. The FSM says to check "BR" fusible link, then the continuity between ecu harness and relay harness. Will update soon as I track it down and see what's going on.

[nalz]

On two nissan hardbodies i've worked on for dies/won't start symptoms, it's been the links at the battery positive post, that were corroded, or pulled out of their terminals, that were the root cause of the problem. I take it that BR means brown.

[Statichardbodynoob]

Fusible links are good. Ran through the tests again, turns out I'm not getting any continuity from ecu connector pin 38 and 47 to main relay (under hood) connecter pin 5. Which FSM says should be. Turns out whatever it is, messed up the relay to because it sounded like a rattle. Got a new relay, but not putting it in yet until I trace down this short. Anyone ever tested the joint connector a by the ecu?

[Statichardbodynoob]

Ok, continuity from ecu connector to joint connector a is good. But not good from relay connector 5 to joint connector a is bad, so I got it pretty isolated. Just hate to tear half my truck apart, damn wires