Cranking the engine by hand

[firstq]

Is it possible to crank the engine by hand?

New question:

While working on the plenum, unfortunately, the fuel leaked all night into the open cylinders (2 of them #4 & #6). I have removed the fule where I could get into. But I am fearful of this thing hydrolocking when I crank the engine.

I need to crank the engine before putting it all together. Can i crank the engine by hand (just 1 0r 2 full cycles). Is it even possible.

Otherwise I was told to remove the spark plug from the cylinder #4 & #6 when cranking the engine to get the excess fuel out (if any still there) - otherwise risk the hydrolocking.

Please advise.

Thanks

[DAEDALUS]

Not only is it possible, it is a VERY critical thing to do if you ever do any valve-train work (e.g., guides). Remove the plugs. Then put your 32mm (I think) socket on the main crankshaft bolt and turn the engine with a breaker bar or large ratchet toward the driver's side. Do it a few times, starting slowly at first. Clean the plug ports out really well beforehand, or the fuel could squeeze up and rinse a bunch of crap back into the cylinder.If you have a pump (very handy), you can also try vacuuming the cylinders out instead.

[firstq]

DAEDALUS : I have not installed the injectors yet - the car is still open apart. Do I still have to remove the plugs before hand cranking - can the fuel come off from where it entered (the fuel intake port - the plenum runners)?

I was hoping by cranking by hand, I will not have enough torque to really damage the rods (if indeed the fuel is there).

Thanks

[DAEDALUS]

I would like to hear others' opinions, but I didn't think piston rings sealed THAT well. Over time, I believe the fuel will drip down into the oil pan, so that within a day, the cylinder would be pretty dry. Assuming there is liquid in the cylinders, the problem is that the injectors and runners are above the intake valves. You have a 50/50 chance for each cylinder being on either the exhaust or power stroke, meaning that 2 of the 4 valves would be open to allow fluid to exit within the first full turn of the crank. (If it's on the power stroke, the cylinder should be sealed anyway, blocking entry.) You can actually figure out the piston's position and cycle, if you know the firing order and after you determine where piston # 1 is from the balancer markings and the CAS. Each cylinder is 90 degrees from the next.As far as whether you could safely turn the crank by hand without damaging anything, I *suspect* the answer is yes. HOWEVER, as the crank and connecting rod straighten out as the piston moves toward TDC, your mechanical advantage increases tremendously (theoretically, it approaches infinity at TDC), but the strain potential decreases toward 0. I'm guessing something would happen to let the fuel out if the system was compressed slowly enough. That is, the fuel would seep somewhere.

[firstq]

It has been atleast 30 hours since this heppened - and it will be another 48 hours before I will get to a point to start the engine (if I am lucky).

Also, the two runner ports throgh which the fuel may have gotten through (#4 & #6) have their lifters at the very top --> meaning the valve passage was not open (from the runner to the chamber) - seems pretty much closed.

So there was not enough room for the fuel to go straight throuh into the cylinder. Another evidence is that when I found out about the fuel drip - both the runner wells were full with fuel to the top (confirming that the lifters were closed inside the runner and did not allow the fuels to seep through to cylinder - otherwise the fuel would not be full on those runner wells). Also the runner openings had a rag on it - so the fuel first wet the rag and then the drenched rag dripped into the ports.

So does it still need to be cranked by hand?

DAEDALUS - thanks for your prompt responses - it is guys like you that are making the difference otherwise us newbies would be eaten alive by the dealers.

Thanks again

[DAEDALUS]

I would still do it cause I'm a worry wart. Unless I am 100% sure, and I'm not, I would not risk destroying the engine for something as easy as turning the crank. As far as the pump, a turkey baster might work if it's long and narrow enough or if you attach a hose to it. Personally I would use a MityVac cause that's what I have and it works well. Don't use any motors, unless they're made for gasoline. Gas will melt many plastics. Also, it's never too late to talk about safety. Always have a fire extinguisher handy if you have fuel exposed, and be very wary of ESD or contact sparks.

[firstq]

DAEDALUS: Tell me based on the updated information (I updated while you were replying - please review again my last post on this thread) - should I still crank by hand. Also, I will have to remove a bunch of stuff in the front to get to the crank bolt, right? - remember I am not doing the guides, the entire front is in tact.

Thanks

[AZhitman]

What about using some compressed air to displace (blow out) the excess fuel?

I'd think it'd be smart then to pre-lube each cylinder with some oil since the fuel would have washed off the cyl walls...

[DAEDALUS]

Hmmm...so you're saying each cylinder is either on the compression or exhaust cycle? Sure was a lot of fuel that dripped out! I am 98% convinced, but I can think of a far-out, worst-case scenario (that's what we have to work to). What if the intake valves aren't perfectly seated? What if they leak, and the rings don't? Then the cylinders and the runners would both be filled. Then let's assume the cylinders are on the exhaust cycle. The next time the crank turns, the cylinders will follow through the exhaust cycle, then into the intake cycle, and then to the compression cycle. In this far-out, worst-case scenario, you definitely want to be turning the crank by hand.Turning the crank isn't that bad. You need to remove the plastic trim from above so you can reach down and get the socket on the crankshaft bolt. Remove the fan and clutch if needed for more clearance. Four fasteners each, I think. Turn the bolt like you are tightening it.

[firstq]

Look at the pic - the 4 intake valves seems all closed from the runner well.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks

[firstq]

Well - based on DAEDALUS's suggestions - I took the time tonight to crank the engine by hand.

removed the spark plugs as well for the #4 & #6 cylinders - just to be sure. When I cranked the engine, the valves do not show noticeable movement - may be I was expecting the intake valves to go up and down and it barely moved some (it was night and I am not sure if I was looking down the runner well all the time while cranking the pulley.

No fuel came out of the plug hole, however at certain points in turning the pulley - the resistance tightened a little bit and it would try to pull back - but then with some force it would give way and continued moving. I gave it full 3-4 turns of the main pulley.

Interesting enough - while removing the ignition coils - I got one nasty spark while trying to unbolt the coil (#2 cylinder). Even though the power transistor connector were disconnected and no connection was going into the coils - the thing still sparked like crazy (like you see when touching the 2 terminals of the battery). Not sure if ruined anything - we will see (porblems after problems...)

[firstq]

AZhitman: for prelubing - just drop a spoon of engine oil directly on the intake valves?

Thanks

[DAEDALUS]

I'm now convinced you're safe from hydrolock. Not sure what to say about that spark! Any chance your ratchet was touching the positive terminal of the battery? The resistance you're feeling in the crank is from the alternating compression of the other 6 cylinders. Once you pass TDC, the resistance acts briefly in your favor until the valves break seal.

[AZhitman]

AZhitman: for prelubing - just drop a spoon of engine oil directly on the intake valves?

Thanks

Don't trust my suggestions entirely - wait for someone else to confirm. I'm just thinking of when I would take one of my two antique V8's out of mothballs, that's how I'd prep them for startup.

DAE?

[DAEDALUS]

A few grams down the plug ports using a baster would be fine, followed by a few more hand-cranks. Same as what Heath said, including the oil change.