Cranking problem after changing tensioner pulley.

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RobotechXB9R
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Ok, so I have a 1996 J30. One day I was leaving the mall, cranked my car and it was idling very funny. No power, hesitation, rough idle. After getting the car towed home, I inspected the motor and noticed the tension pulley had fallen off. I replaced this. I saw some sites online that said I needed to line up the cam pulleys. I did so. I have not messed with adjusting the timing or reseting the timing. Now, when I attempted to crank the car, its does not turn over, no clicks. The motor seems to start to turn, then acts like it hits a wall. Like its locked up. I didn't drive it after I originally noticed the problem and have not cranked it until I made sure the tension pulley was fixed and the cam pulleys were realigned. Any help as to why it will not crank would be awesome! If you need any additional info, I will be happy to provide.



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yodawill2000
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Was the crankshaft at TDC when you lined up the cam pulleys ??

RobotechXB9R
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I did not. Are there any docs on how to do this for a J30? and do I need any special tools? Thank again for the help!
Modified by RobotechXB9R at 7:41 AM 4/20/2009

Ebbtide
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Sounds like your timing is way out. It is an interference engine, it might be toasted if the timing belt jumped at the mall, or was mis-aligned when you cranked it.

RobotechXB9R
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If I attempted to crank it after I changed the tensioner without putting the crank at TDC, could that have caused serious motor damage even if the motor never turned over?

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yodawill2000
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If it rotated a little the hit a "Wall" that could mean damage.I used a breaker bar on the main crank bolt and turned mine over by hand several times to be dang sure all was well.

RobotechXB9R
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If it will turn after I use a bar, do I just need to bring it to TDC and everything should be ok? As always thank you!

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yodawill2000
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If you can do a few revolutions with the breaker bar that's a good sign.

Here's a complete how too.zerothread?id=198122


RobotechXB9R
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Don't you know that your my hero! Thank you do much, you guys have been a great help!

GerryO
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RobotechXB9R wrote:If it will turn after I use a bar, do I just need to bring it to TDC and everything should be ok? As always thank you!
How about a photo of the tension pulley that you noticed had fallen off and replaced?

Without the tensioner in place the timing belt very likely could have jumped (at the crankshaft pully?). If you are in luck all four camshafts could still be synchronized.

I wouldn't use a bar on it until I'd confirmed that all of the timing marks are lined up properly, which I suspect means that it might be best to loosen/remove the tensioner and remove the timing belt to be able to rotate the camshafts and crankshaft independently of each other (to a very small degree) in order to line everything up at TDC/all time, and even then I'm not exactly sure how one would go about putting all five elements totally back in synch to facilitate safely moving things.

Pull all of the spark plugs too. You may have to pull the camshafts (causing all of the valves to close/fully retract), set the crankshaft to #1 TDC, install the four camshafts in their proper positions, and then the timing belt and tensioner. I suppose you could leak check every cylinder with the camshafts out and that might tell you if you have bent any valves.

Don't force anything more than you already have when trying to find that one combination that permits everything to turn without any interference.

RobotechXB9R
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I can get almost a revolution out of it, then it stops. I don't want to force it but I have a trusted friend coming tomorrow to take a look. If not him then the closest place to me to take it would be Z1 motor sports.

coolyun_98
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I am sorry to hear what happened to your J. Most likely the engine has interal damage.

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yodawill2000
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AgreedYou should be able to turn it over at least two revs without interference.

Sounds like a valve smacking a piston.


GerryO
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yodawill2000 wrote:AgreedYou should be able to turn it over at least two revs without interference.

Sounds like a valve smacking a piston.
It had better turn over an infinite number of times without interference. Twice around with the crankshaft is once around for each of the camshafts.

If you've hit an interference point there's a chance of bending a valve or damaging a piston, rod or the crank.

I suppose you could try to determine the position of each piston in each cylinder (sticking something into the spark plug holes), also noting the mark on the crankshaft and whether it's on a compression or exhaust stroke, while also noting the positions of the crankshafts (a lot easier to determine with the valve covers off). Moving one camshaft could cure one interference situation and cause another. There's pretty much only one correct combination that works for 360 degree operation. Good luck.

RobotechXB9R
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Yep, I think I have found that it is a bent valve. The pistons look ok. How much and where could I find them, a set of heads for that car

1996 J30

GerryO
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RobotechXB9R wrote:Yep, I think I have found that it is a bent valve. The pistons look ok. How much and where could I find them, a set of heads for that car

1996 J30
So you've pulled both cylinder heads? How about posting a photo or two? It might be best to contact a local head servicing shop to have the heads/valves cleaned, leak checked, checked for flatness, lightly re-surfaced and the one damaged valve replaced.

I suppose you could go the wrecking yard route, first turning over any engine that you choose to tear-down by hand to check for any interference, but even then you've done a lot of work before you get to see the condition of the heads/valves.

kickenkrazy
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Car: 1997 J30

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that happened to my old motor it would go almost 360 and stop then go the other way almost 360 i still have motor if any one needs parts--block maybe heads free--- you pick up

kickenkrazy
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1997


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