i can't get the crank pulley bolt loose.i tried impact, heat and impact, heat and me standing on it.i don't know if anyone has a pulley holder or something where i could hold the pulley and jump on it harder?any suggestions?thanx will
90 240sx single cam
crank pulley holder???
Re: (DAEDALUS)
It does until you hit it with a torch.DAEDALUS wrote:I think you can get a chain wrench at harbor freight for just over $20. Heat is not a good thing. Does't the pulley have a rubber ring on it?
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curbmagnet
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:24 pm
Re: (BadMojo)
actually there is two puleys that sit on the front of the crank.the one that serves as the dampner is held on with 6 10mmbolts. that one is off. the pulley thats left is all metal.
cars stick...(automatic..........um yeah..)
the car has 100k miles on it and someone else has done work on it.people sometimes use a threadlock fluid to help lock an important boltin place. heat or force is all that will break threadlocker.
anyone with a crank pulley holder?
anyother suggestions?
DAEDALUSa chain wrench won't jack up the ribs that help guide the various belts that ride on it?
later
cars stick...(automatic..........um yeah..)
the car has 100k miles on it and someone else has done work on it.people sometimes use a threadlock fluid to help lock an important boltin place. heat or force is all that will break threadlocker.
anyone with a crank pulley holder?
anyother suggestions?
DAEDALUSa chain wrench won't jack up the ribs that help guide the various belts that ride on it?
later
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curbmagnet
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:24 pm
Re: (DAEDALUS)
i put it in first and it started turning. i didn't think fourth or fith i guess i 'll try that tomorrow. thanx
Re: (DAEDALUS)
If the 4th gear thing doesn't work, you could *try*one of those rubber strap wrenches from Sears. Not sure if could get enough torque on the rubber strap wrench without breaking some part of it or you...those pulley's are on there like a mofo.DAEDALUS wrote:You would have to use an old belt under the chain to protect the ribs.
But if the car's stick, why not just put it in 4th or 5th gear? Hopefully no one used thread locker. Really in most cases the bolts (and holes) just need to be clean--no oil or grease.
I used that Sears wrench when I did the chain guides on my Q. The crank bolt on my car takes 270 ft-lbs to install, so removing it is somewhat north of that. It worked fine on my car. It worked fine on the 2nd Q I did. On the 3rd Q I worked on, the strap wrench broke, no dice. It will probably work on most cars, but you'll need to use a cheater bar with it.
Actually here's a little trick I learned from an old guy at the parts store on that day we broke the strap wrench: The engine spins the correct direction for bolt removal. What that means is that you can put a long wrench on the bolt head, rest it against the frame, remove the injector fuse, and then just *lightly* tap the key to start. The starter motor is way strong and will pop that bolt loose enough to remove by hand.
Cool trick, but I don't recommend it. If you don't have the tools to remove the bolt manually, then you may not have the tools to install the bolt to the correct torque.
Actually here's a little trick I learned from an old guy at the parts store on that day we broke the strap wrench: The engine spins the correct direction for bolt removal. What that means is that you can put a long wrench on the bolt head, rest it against the frame, remove the injector fuse, and then just *lightly* tap the key to start. The starter motor is way strong and will pop that bolt loose enough to remove by hand.
Cool trick, but I don't recommend it. If you don't have the tools to remove the bolt manually, then you may not have the tools to install the bolt to the correct torque.
Re: (DAEDALUS)
Heh...I like that trick. I think you mentioned that a while ago. It may be somewhat dangerous, but it sure sounds like fun!DAEDALUS wrote:Actually here's a little trick I learned from an old guy at the parts store on that day we broke the strap wrench: The engine spins the correct direction for bolt removal. What that means is that you can put a long wrench on the bolt head, rest it against the frame, remove the injector fuse, and then just *lightly* tap the key to start. The starter motor is way strong and will pop that bolt loose enough to remove by hand.
Personally, if the 4th gear method doesn't work, I'd go with the strap wrench and cheater bar...strap wrenches are cheap and if it lasts for the install it'll be worth it. Besides, if you get a Craftsman and it has their lifetime replacement thing they'll replace it for you.
Most Sears stores don't care if you ran the tool over with a dump truck and then left it out in the rain for 3 months. They'll replace just about anything if it has the warranty on it.