crank pulley bolt install?

Post by **Porn-Adkt** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

crank pulley install

removed it using the starter method, replaced seal, installed pulley now how The F..k do u get the bolt tighten back to spec torque, with out having the crank spin, im stumped.

its an 89 Sohc Automatic and no impact is available?

please help.

Post by **DAEDALUS** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

LOL This is a bit of a lesson. You knew the starter only turned one way! I have done it a couple ways. The best way is with a chain wrench. Can be bought or possibly rented. It has a long handle, and you can use a cheater bar with it. The other way is to get a cheap strap wrench from Sears, the largest one they sell. Set of 2 wrenches goes for like $20. That one will need a cheater bar, but the handle is kind of big, so you'll need a fairly large pipe. Galvanized drain pipes would probably work. I think I used a jack handle. I put over 300 ft-lbs on the strap wrench a couple times. The 3rd time it broke. Free replacements though.

Post by **Hijacker** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

this is easier than the way daedalus posted.

if you have the car on a lift, you will need a friend for this. put the transmission in 4th gear (i've found that 5th gear allows for more slippage than 4th) and have your friend stand on the brakes while you tighten the bolt down.

If the car is on stands, make sure the rear wheels are touching the ground, place the car in 4th again and then set the e-brake very hard. The weight of the car and the torque needed to even move the car forward should keep you from accidentally pushing the car forward.

Also, if you ever have to get it off again, this is the best way, ie by having someone stand on the brake while the car is in 4th.

Post by **Porn-Adkt** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

the car is an Automatic

Post by **Hijacker** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

that it is. how did i miss that? disregard what i said :pface

Post by **fiznat** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

uhmm this is probably a bad thing, but what I did to get the thing off was thread a few bolts into the backside of the crank there (using the massive clutch bolts), then use a long thin bar to brace those bolts against a table or wall while a friend turns from the other side.. the crank will try to spin until the bolts hit up against your bar-- that will stop it.

EDIT: oops! while reading, I realised your engine is still in the car w/ transmission attached, huh! whooops-- guess my advice doesnt help at all!

Post by **Hijacker** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

we seem to be full of unuseful advice today!

Post by **Porn-Adkt** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

tenkawa_akito wrote:we seem to be full of unuseful advice today!

LOL

it would seem so

Post by **JayArr** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

do you have shop air???

You can buy an adapter that will thred into the spark plug hole and allow you to pressurize the cylinder with the shop air.

Turn the crank until No 1 cylinder is just starting it's upward travel on the compression stroke and then apply the air to the cylinder, now you can torque against that compressed air.

If you put 120 lbs into the cylinder at the beginning of the travel then multiply by the compression ratio... you'll be able to tighten that bolt to 300lbs no problem.

JayArr

Post by **DAEDALUS** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

That's a pretty neat trick, never heard of that before. But the math proof is a bit different. The greatest force will be when the piston is 1/2 way up the bore, since that is where the piston's force will have the greatest torque about the crankshaft. Area of the piston is 9.62 in^2Pressure= 120psiTotal force on piston is 9.62*120 = 1154 pounds.Moment arm = 1/2 stroke = 1.89 inMax opposing torque = (6.215/6.496)*(1.89in/12in/ft)*1154 pounds= 182 ft-lbsBolt torque ~ 110 ft-lbs

Not quite 300 ft-lbs, but way more than enough. Great tip JayArr.

Post by **JayArr** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

Thanks DAEDALUS

I wasn't sure of the specifics of the bore and stroke but I knew it works.

If you need to torque it higher than 182 then you can fill the cylinder at the bottom of the stroke (120lbs) and then turn the piston half way up. The surface area is dramatically reduced and the pressure/opposing force will be much higher.

I think my adapters were from KD Tools, there were a few in a kit to fit every different type of car and cost about $15.

JayArr

Post by **SilviaS14KA24DE** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

my bf's bro in law installed mine. He's a mechanic at Toyota Of Riverside (Ca). Anywayz, he has air tools at his house, and tightend mine with his torque wrench. I told him that it should be 85 lbs of torque or whatever it is (I just woke up). He said that it didn't matter as long as it's tight. Everything has been fine since

Post by **DAEDALUS** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

SilviaS14KA24DE wrote:He said that it didn't matter as long as it's tight.

That might be true for Toyotas, where the sprockets on the crankshaft are keyed, but that is not the case on a lot of Nissans, which rely on friction to drive the oil pump sprocket. A Q45 owner recently had some work done and the bolt was not installed properly. 600 miles after the work was done the oil light started flickering. Keep in mind that the engine needs >10psi of oil to run right. The oil light won't come on till the pressure gets down to about 3psi. Hopefully "tight" is enough to keep the sprocket from slipping.

Post by **SilviaS14KA24DE** » Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:41 pm

yeah it is. lol

crank pulley bolt install?

crank pulley bolt install?

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