crank pulley bolt comes loose..

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
Lazorus
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:49 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx (kade)
1990 Mazda rx7 fc (13b)
1983 buick regal v6

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before i even ask the question id like to say 1 i can be a dumb a** 2 ive only worked on the upper part of blocks 3 i only really have experience on working on wankel rotary engines.

so my 240 is they only car ive had that has lasted me 7 months with out some expinsive repair (size 13 lead foot rapped in steal toe boots) so i dont want to give up on it.

so im driving down the road and BAM no power steering, alternator etc. i knew right away that key on the crank or whatever that keep the bolt from unscrewing from the pulley had broke. luckily i had locktite and drenched the bolt and put it back in. it shockingly has lasted my driving for 3 months untill yesterday..

so question is would i be able to weld that bolt to the pulley and have it stay??... i relize i could locktite it again but i need it to last 6 months till i can buy a new kade and have it rebuilt.

any other possible fixes that are cheap??
thanks

my buddy told me to put a sr in it :lolling: all hail the torque monster ka :bowrofl:


User avatar
corn322
Posts: 1572
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2003 10:11 am
Car: 1993 240sx
Location: Austin, TX

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Lazorus wrote:any other possible fixes that are cheap??
How about tightening the bolt properly?

You say the key broke, you mean the woodruff key that aligns the crank and pulley? It doesn't stop the bolt from unscrewing, the 105 - 112 foot pounds of torque keep it in place.

If that key did in fact shear while you where driving, I imagine it tore up the nose of the crank. Take a look at it. If there are huge gouges in the metal you may be out of luck. However, if the pulley can still slide on and off you can buy new keys at Autozone or wherever you get parts. Just be sure to torque the crank bolt properly.


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