Crank noise.

[jynxtrix]

I can't win with this thing, and no, I haven't been hot rodding it, lol.Anyway, I've pulled all the belts and the only thing spinning is the crank, it's like a low, load squeak/whining sound. I'm thinking main bearing. Alot of people might laugh at me for saying that, but I've heard it before, pulled it and it was just worn slightly outside of tolerances. i caught it early enough that nothing was damaged, and I'm leaning that way again. It only happens around 700 rpms (i know i shouldn't be idling that low, but that is the only way I could replicate the problem), anyway, I'm gonna drop the pan and check for shavings in a couple of days. Anybody have any advice or suggestions on this? and is there any reason this one can't be done thru the pan? I don't have a hoist or stand anymore.Words of wisdom? I got a video of it, I just have no where to host it.

[zmannz]

I have a 2.2 4 cylinder in my mazda truck. If it idles low, it starts to sound like it will throw a rod, but I run it to redline every shift for at least 30 miles every day, and it has been fine for 7000 miles. Some motors have sounds. I think that at that low of engine speed, maybe the oil pump isn't putting out as much force of pressure and the motor starts to ride a bearing. If your crank is wearing one bearing that fast, get a new crank or block, you got some warp.

[jynxtrix]

yeah, I've thought about the possibility of the oil pump just not pumping enough at such low rpms, but something about it just irks me, and I can't put my finger on it.

Dee, Float, any input?

Have you guys ever heard of anything like this? The only thing I know to compare it too is the whine of bearing going out on an idler pully or external component, something along those lines, but those are actual ball bearings, not like a main bearing. Could a front seal make this kind of noise?Bear in mind that this engine has sat for two years, with oil in it, but not actaully being run.well, let's see what ideas we get. thanks.J

[killedbydeath]

just a thought, but why not invest in a drain plug with a magnet tip?

might be worthy to try before going through the work of dropping the pan.

[jynxtrix]

Touche!oil change and magnetic drian plug. then I'll chop the filter open and look inside, I think that should tell me most of what I need to know eh?

[zmannz]

Do that, see if you get the flakes. Still might not tell you if something is wrong. You can buy a cheap oil pressure gauge from a parts store, I got one with oil pressure and temp and I love it, so does the oil cooler company.

[jynxtrix]

got one, but I'm currently running it as a fuel pressure gauge, but I do have an extra oil pressure gauge, so I guess I could do that. where do they go on these beasts? I haven't even looked yet, is it where the oil filter goes on at?

[fabio240]

I bought an oil filter sandwich and used one of the ports there but if you can get a tee that will fit in the oem oil pressure sensor spot you can put it there.

[boost_boy]

yeah, I've thought about the possibility of the oil pump just not pumping enough at such low rpms, but something about it just irks me, and I can't put my finger on it.

Dee, Float, any input?

Have you guys ever heard of anything like this? The only thing I know to compare it too is the whine of bearing going out on an idler pully or external component, something along those lines, but those are actual ball bearings, not like a main bearing. Could a front seal make this kind of noise?Bear in mind that this engine has sat for two years, with oil in it, but not actaully being run.well, let's see what ideas we get. thanks.J

That's a ghost noise and it can be caused by a numbr of these things:

Idler bearing for timing belt

Timing belt tensioner

Timing belt out of alignment and rubbing up against lower timing belt cover

Water pump bearing

It's definitely not your main bearings. Your rod bearings will suffer long before the mains will. How's your oil pressure? What's the physical condition of this motor? Did you rebuild it in the past? Try checking the areas I mentioned and let us know what you conclude.

Dee

[zmannz]

I bought an oil filter sandwich and used one of the ports there but if you can get a tee that will fit in the oem oil pressure sensor spot you can put it there.

Yup yup, I made a little hole near my oil pressure sensor and tapped it in beside it. It would be much more neo-proof to tee it out.

[jynxtrix]

"Neo proof"? que es este? some new slang or what?

oh, and the whole front end is ripped off. rigged it to idle. sounds like it's just as low on the engine, but comig from further back now. like maybe between the engine and transmission. the only thing there is a throwout bearing though right? man, I feel like I'm chasing shadows here.
Modified by jynxtrix at 1:34 PM 8/16/2009

[boost_boy]

"Neo proof"? que es este? some new slang or what?

oh, and the whole front end is ripped off. rigged it to idle. sounds like it's just as low on the engine, but comig from further back now. like maybe between the engine and transmission. the only thing there is a throwout bearing though right? man, I feel like I'm chasing shadows here.

Modified by jynxtrix at 5:15 PM 8/14/2009

Press the clutch and see if the noise goes away.

Dee

[zmannz]

That is a likely candidate. As far as "neo-proof", it is from my paintballing days. Neophyte means beginner, neo- prefix means "new". So, neo-proof, is like newbie proof. I was implying that teeing your block, not drilling a hole into it, might be the better way to go about adding your probe if you aren't very experienced.

[jynxtrix]

right, so I never figured out exactly what was causing the noise, but I did figure out how to stop it. When I first started my project it wouldn't run without the valve cover plugged. Well, i piped it into my intake like I saw in all the diagrams and it ran fine. Then I plugged it, and it ran fine, but that's when the strange noise started, I just never connected the two. Well, anyway, I unplugged it, and now it's pretty much just vented to the atmosphere. But the noise is stopped. It's running reasonably well. But I've developed a few other issues that I'm looking at. My idle adjustment doesn't really make a difference. I've torn it apart and cleaned it 3 times, but it just doesn't do crap. I have to adjust my idle with the screw that is on the throttle body, and I don't think that is how that is supposed to work, lol.

And then there is the boost cut. or speed, or what ever. I just know that no matter what gear I'm in, it cuts out at the same speed. I'm still working on that. Could it have anything to do with my lack of correct transmission wiring maybe? My 5th gear sensor isn't hooked up, but should that matter. Oh well. Shoot me full of wisdom if you got it. If not, Just Shoot me.

[float_6969]

What speed is it cutting out at? I think the governor is at like 110mph.

[sjbsuperman1425]

What speed is it cutting out at? I think the governor is at like 110mph.

is that stock governor? I burried my "JDM" cluster the other day..then the next day, on the express way doing abt 120 km/h (supposed to be around 75mph or so) my friend said i was doing like 85mph..so idk if i messed up my cluster or if i was really hauling a** the other day but w/e lol

as for the noise, i know i get a noise on start up that is probably a timing belt component, which sucks because they are expensive and even more expensive if they break!

[jynxtrix]

i wish I could say exactly what speed, but I haven't had the chance to get my speed re-calibrated again yet. according to my speedometer it's 45, then it cuts out, feels like spark goes, for about 2 seconds. It really does feel just like a governor though. I'd say the actual speed is right around 55 or 60. either way, that's where it cuts out at. It's not dependent on the speedometer reading or what gear I'm in either. No matter I'm still not sure how to stop it.
Modified by jynxtrix at 6:25 PM 8/18/2009