crank flywheel hole stripped threads :(

Post by **tyrannix** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:53 pm

quickie question, i think i know the answer already, bu ti have to ask:

i just put on the new flywheel, and all the flywheel-crank bolts were really tight, like a pain in teh *** to tighten

all of them are at 80 ft-lbs, except one, it wont tighten up, it just keeps spinning..... stripped, but wont fall out

so i need to drop the crank and fix (by machining a new crank, or retap new holes)? or should it be funkaliscious with the 7 bolts holding it...

nevermind

damn it... well, the silver lining is that now ive got an excuse to rebuild it with forgies and a t3 flange turbo

BTW

its not in the diagram, and i got new flywheel bolts from somewhere... are they supposed to have washer or something?

CJ

eidt> dont make fun of me too much, this is the first engine ive built, and only the second time ive put on a flywheel... im going to chalk it up as a learning experience and just take my time
Modified by tyrannix at 11:06 PM 9/10/2006

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 8:06 pm

No washer. Helicoil it buddy. Just as strong, if not stronger than stock. Trust me.

Post by **tyrannix** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 8:20 pm

boo stripped crank,

HOORAY HELICOIL

good call Ryan, ill still end up yanking the engine again... but maybe not go forgies.... so im not tempted to go for more power than i can handle now (why im keeping the hachi stock, minus normal I/H/E, valve job for now.... so i dont wreck itfor now.... eventually a CA will end up in there, but that project is on pause for a good while now

CJ

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:21 am

why yank it? You can do it in the car with the crank still in the motor, or are you just wanting to freshen up the motor?

Post by **tyrannix** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:07 am

so the machine shop can do it, i wouldnt trust myself doing something like tapping a critical part like the crank

CJ

Post by **kahlistrophic** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:26 pm

whew...good thread...happened to me too..lol

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 1:03 pm

tyrannix wrote:so the machine shop can do it, i wouldnt trust myself doing something like tapping a critical part like the crank

CJ

Wuss! It's like you're worried about your feet getting chopped off or something...

Post by **tyrannix** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:38 am

in my younger days i have attempted to tap out threads myself... the result was disasterous

but besides that, the machine shop has my engine now, and apparently there is no helicoil kit with a 1 pitch, thats teh pitch of the flywheel bolts. they make a 1.25 one, which he said i could use, but then i have to find other than OEM bolts (which doesnt really make much of a difference, as i have to get all new flywheel bolts anyway now)

apparently the problem came from teh JUN flywheel being too thin, and i needed some washers

the bolts apparently bottomed out, wrecked the threads on the very end, then boogered all the threads when i pulled the bolts back out

thats why it was a huge pain this time to install the bolts, because the threads in the holes were already fubar

so, better that i found out anyway, Im all about blowing up my engine from pushing it too far, but not from a stupid mistake.

so: theres the lesson.

when using a non stock flywheel, check how thick it is where the bolts feed thru, you may need thick washers, or to grind the ends off your bolts

CJ

Post by **kahlistrophic** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 7:59 am

tyrannix wrote:in my younger days i have attempted to tap out threads myself... the result was disasterous

but besides that, the machine shop has my engine now, and apparently there is no helicoil kit with a 1 pitch, thats teh pitch of the flywheel bolts. they make a 1.25 one, which he said i could use, but then i have to find other than OEM bolts (which doesnt really make much of a difference, as i have to get all new flywheel bolts anyway now)

apparently the problem came from teh JUN flywheel being too thin, and i needed some washers

the bolts apparently bottomed out, wrecked the threads on the very end, then boogered all the threads when i pulled the bolts back out

thats why it was a huge pain this time to install the bolts, because the threads in the holes were already fubar

so, better that i found out anyway, Im all about blowing up my engine from pushing it too far, but not from a stupid mistake.

so: theres the lesson.

when using a non stock flywheel, check how thick it is where the bolts feed thru, you may need thick washers, or to grind the ends off your bolts

CJ

So whats the plane? Having to make all the flywheel holes a 1.25 pitch and getting all 1.25 pitch flywheel bolts now or just the single stripped one for the helicoil?

Post by **rico05** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 8:37 am

About as bad as me trying to install my Racing Beat race header on my 13B (FC3S) when the motor was still hot after a 30 minute cool down from hard run. Stripped all 4 bolts (aluminum rotor housings). Had to pull the motor to get a drill in there to install the Helicols. Total PITA, but the machine shop that did it only charged me for the Helicoils cuz the motor was so neat for them to work on. LOL. Helicoils kick a$$.

Post by **float_6969** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 1:14 pm

That's odd about the flywheel. I'm running a JUN flywheel and didn't notice a problem. At least I don't remember one. Now you've got me worried....

Post by **tyrannix** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 4:37 pm

i was going to have them helicoil all of the holes to 1.25, which is the closest available helicoil

but the plan now is to machine another crank and just use that, i dropped off 2 cranks to my machine guys, so they can mike both and machine up the best one.

balance and polish, hopefully it will be able to use standard bearings for the mains and rods, then i can just reassemble the bottom.

.... im thinking about taking off the head and spraying some of that nifty copper spray (1.5mm MHG) as long as i have the engine out again

CJ

Post by **AmoebAssassin** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:09 pm

I stripped two bolts in my SR crankshaft, and used timeserts. I drilled and tapped them myself, but the engine was out of the car so it was easier to drill level.

Drilling and tapping are not hard if you're careful to get the drill parallel to the original hole. It doesnt have to be perfect because the drill will self-center down a pre-existing hole.

http://www.timesert.com

They are available in M10x1.0, which is what I have in my SR. Two months and no problems, even with a crazy pressure plate clutch (cusco super single).

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:26 pm

^^^!!!!FTW!!!!^^^

Seriously, that's a great find!

Post by **NeedCAforS13** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:43 am

for alot of lightened flywheels you have to run a/t flexplate bolts. because its thin like your lightened flywheel...

Post by **tyrannix** » Fri Oct 06, 2006 1:46 pm

unfortunatly timeserts will not be helping me at all, my crank is toast, i went to the machine shop today and saw it. yeah, the bolts bottomed out so much that it bulged back

but on the bright side, one of the other 2 cranks i had was almost perfect, the journals got polished, and now its just getting balanced (and will be balanced with the tooth wheel pulley, and flywheel to be safe)but i heard from Drew, my jun flywheel should be on its way to me now, its just a waiting game

CJ

crank flywheel hole stripped threads :(

crank flywheel hole stripped threads :(

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