couple questions about valves on dohc s13

[ceniack]

i've got a 1992 s13, and i am needing to replace the valve seals, anything i need to be aware of as far as the valves are concerned (do they need adjustment after messing with the springs, etc...)

any trick of the trade as far as actually replacing them (how much time for someone who is decent at turning a wrench). i know i need to make sure i don't drop a valve into the cylinder, any way to make getting the timing right easier?

i am tired of my car giving me a smoke screen after sitting idle at a stop light, etc...

[s13sr20chris]

i have never done it with the head on the car. its not easy even off the car. do you have the speacial tool for removing the springs(not the cheapy one available at auto parts store)? with head on a bench it still takes me 2 hours. buy extra seals because you may mess some up. look closely at the gap between bottom of seal(old seal) and the seat. there should be a small gap. dont push it on till its flush.

[ceniack]

no, i don't have that tool unfortunatly, i know it takes a very small spring compressor to get in there, my uncle had said something about trying to make my own, but not sure how he said to do it.

so doing this with the head on the car, do i need to worry about adjusting the valves?

[s13sr20chris]

as long as the valves go back in the same spots and the shims and buckets all go back in the same spot then no. i have the special tool and it would be hard to make one of your own. its very large. it bolts to the head and has an attachment that fits down into the lifter bores.

[180fan]

Don't risk doing the valve seals with the head still on the motor unless you're positive the piston is at the top of it's stroke when you're working on the valves for the piston that is now on its top stroke. Reason I say this is because I had a very good laugh although pretty cruel at a friend who did his valve seals with the head still on the block but had his valve slide down into the chamber when pushing his seals down. Good luck.