thecondor wrote:Hey guys,
I just registered here and I recently (3 weeks ago) purchased a 99 I30 with about 146000 miles on it. So far, I love this car, and I plan on sticking some money into it.
1. So, I purchased it for a reasonable price from a small dealer. Upon filling it up for the first time, I discovered there was a small leak in the tank. I took it back to the dealer and they fixed the leak, no expense. They told me the leak was a hole in the filler tube that they were able to fix, no problem. I was happy to get that sorted out. My next fill up, everything went smoothly. However, the next time I went to the pump, the gas would not flow. I would pull the trigger and after about 10 cents of gas the pump would stop. So I pulled the nozzle out a little bit and pumped slower. The gasoline comes up the tube and when the pump shuts off, the gas goes down into the tank. Since then, I've tried many different pumps at many different stations. Always the same. After some research I think it's obvious that the tank is not venting properly. I've read that it could be that the vent tubes are clogged, or a spring is stuck in one of them, blah blah blah. I haven't taken a look yet as it just hasn't been a big priority right now.
Does that sound like it could be the problem? I know it's a DIY job if that is the problem.
2. Also, when the car is in OD (4sp AT) when I left off the accelerator slowly and completely the car kind of shudders as if I had downshifted, but it's not dropping gears. I have tested this in every other gear, it only occurs in OD. The transmission shifts smooth, there are no funny sounds or anything. I've read that this could be caused by bad engine/transmission mounts, bad O2 sensors, bad MAF, sticky throttle valve, etc. I just don't know what to look into. It only happens in 4th gear, so I don't think it would be a sensor? It doesn't matter what speed I am going. I could be going 40 or 90, as long as the machine is in 4th gear, it will happen. I've also noticed on some days it's worse and some days it doesn't occur at all.
I mostly drive on the highway using cruise control and I have a steady foot otherwise, so it's not like I am constantly bucking around, but when I do play with the throttle it does buck.
Is this something to worry about? How can I fix it? What causes it?
Thank you in advance for any and all input, I will be checking in daily, maybe multiple times a day (if I remember to). Thanks again!
Welcome to NICO. I have a 99 I30, 99 Maxima, and a 95 Maxima before that and a Q45. When filling all Nissans I remove the pump nozzle when it clicks off the first time. On the Q, if I try to force in more fuel it usually ends up running down the side of the car.
The shuttering or 4th issue could be caused by a couple of things without being able to see or drive the car.
On my 99 Maxima (5-speed) with 145,000 miles the car would buck in 1st or 2nd gear or when under load (lugging) up a hill in 5th. That turned out to be worn out O2 sensors that should have been replaced at 100,000 miles. My car's previous owner didn't know or want to replace the sensors at 100,000 so they kept driving it until the performance degradation influenced his decision to sell it. Many purported mechanics do not have a clue about knowing how to identify a failing Nissan 4th gen MAF and/or weak O2 sensors.
If your car is an Automatic, and the front motor mount is the original, I would consider unplugging the electric motor mount plug (near the mount) until you replace the mount or decide the difference in engine feel doesn't justify the cost of the electric mount over one for a manual transmission. Shorted front (electric) motor mounts have been known to knock out the ECU. I bought the 99 model I30 for $300 (with a bad ECU) from a lady who allowed her car to be worked on by mechanics that didn't understand a 4th gen Maxima or the maintenance issues to watch to avoid.
If you car starts stalling at a stoplight while in drive, there is a good chance it could be the MAF. I keep a spare MAF for the Max and I30 for that reason. I pick up used MAFs from a local salvage yard for about $35, drive for a couple of weeks to test, then keep on hand for when I need to replace one. The I30 had a failing MAF that caused a mechanic to mistakenly replace the fuel pump to resolve the stalling issue.
I really like buying the 4th gen Maxima - I30 at mid life (150,000 miles) as they are easy to refresh and renew with a few parts.
I typically do the following soon after purchasing a mid-life 4th gen.
1) new O2 sensors with NGK/NTK OEM type (usually improves mileage if old sensors are not fully functioning)
2) Clean MAF (replace with known working MAF if it stalls at stoplights) one of the reasons people sell their used 4th gen on the internet.
3) Replace fuel filter
4) inspect and replace any cracked or weatherd vacuum and water hoses
5) change transmission fluid
5) replace spark plugs with NGK PFR5G-11
6) change the brake fluid
7) coolant flush.
8) replace air filter
