Couple of questions.

[KidQuick91]

I'm gonna be selling my Wrx and I'm looking at getting into a 350, I found a few 03-04's that are in my price range, but I wanna know what I'm getting myself into.

-So, is it true that the 03-04 models are really heavy in comparison to 05+?
-Do these cars have any infamous problems? I know some people complain about excessive cabin noise, anything else?
-Are the transmissions and engines reliable? I know in the subaru scene the 06 sti's have glass pistons, so do these cars have any issues like that?

Any other info good or bad through your guys' experience with these cars would really help me out. Thanks in advance.

[BusyBadger]

I actually drive the heaviest 350Z produced, the 2005 35th Anniversary model. It's also got one of the larger "Beware of" issues (along with the '05 Track model and all 6MT '06 models) - excessive oil consumption.

With the 03/04 Z's the big issues are getting a proper wheel alignment (there were early issues with tire feathering) that was addressed in a TSB from Nissan and with the motors for the power windows.

Like all older cars there will always be potential issues from the wear and tear feelings years and miles of use (and sometimes abuse) so a thorough inspection is always a good idea.

Welcome to NICO!

[KidQuick91]

Ok thank you, so when I go out to check these cars out the main thing I should look for as far as common issues is awkward tire wear from misalignment? Is there any notorious rust or rot spots under the car?

[BusyBadger]

Sort of, the big issue with the tires was an overly generous tolerance being being specified, the TSB corrected this.

The VQ is a stout engine that shouldn't give you any issues. Keep in mind that you'll be spending more for power gains as the Z isn't factory turbocharged. Same goes for suspension upgrades, the Z has a good setup from the start so you'll party more to improve it. Nothing against the WRX or Sti, but their lineage sprouts from an economy car, the Z does not - so everything costs more.

[jerryd1987]

if your looking for big power dont get the z, if your looking for traction dont get the z, if you dont like a rough ride dont get the z, really the only advantage the z has is rwd(its my favorite ) and lower center of gravity(but very minor) the wrx and sti's are amazing platforms(yes ive driven and worked on both like i said i like rwd only reason i went with z was because it was too good a deal to pass up)

the 03-04 is actually the lightest z's produced go look up the curb weights my 03 enthusist was 3100 lbs from the factory(or mayby 3150? idk its several hundred pounds lighter now and easy to get 100-200 lbs off with standard upgrades.) transmissions are literally the most powerful manual transmission in the import world. stronger then both the getrag supra trannys and the 300zx trans, its only down side is the older ones had syncro issues just get a cd009 revision trans and your fine.

the biggest weak link is the rods in the vq35, dont expect more then 400 hp reliably out of the de and 500 on the hr motors and your going to be looking at big bucks to upgrade.(i spent ~5k ish on used pauter rods, wossner pistons, fluidamper, arp stud kits, machining, bearings, head gaskets, and cosworth oil control baffle and i got very good deals. unless you have the hookup expect to pay around 6k for the same, mayby a little less machining is rediculous here. depending on power goals eagle rods might work i wouldnt go above 700 with em though.)

turbo kit wise if you go that route expect to pay 4600+ for a new one. i wouldnt do any of the top mount kits personally i would go mid mount or twins, stay away from turbonetics and sts for sure both have huge problems on this platform. clutch you can go southbend for a cheap option, a 100% absolute must though is the rjm clutch pedal bracket its one of the best mods for the platform. engine management i would say get a old haltech for the cost of uprev+boost controller you can get the harness version haltechs.

it is not a cheap venture though expect 10k for a mild power build. for 800 to the wheels(cant wait for new clutch to get broken in lol) ive got about 28k invested now plus the cost of the car and still no brakes or suspension although i could have shaved that a little but i like to tinker. ALOT more if your paying someone else, do the same as i have done to my car minus the tinkering i would charge probably about 40k or so although there is alot of custom work done.

[KidQuick91]

if your looking for big power dont get the z, if your looking for traction dont get the z, if you dont like a rough ride dont get the z, really the only advantage the z has is rwd(its my favorite ) and lower center of gravity(but very minor) the wrx and sti's are amazing platforms(yes ive driven and worked on both like i said i like rwd only reason i went with z was because it was too good a deal to pass up)

the 03-04 is actually the lightest z's produced go look up the curb weights my 03 enthusist was 3100 lbs from the factory(or mayby 3150? idk its several hundred pounds lighter now and easy to get 100-200 lbs off with standard upgrades.) transmissions are literally the most powerful manual transmission in the import world. stronger then both the getrag supra trannys and the 300zx trans, its only down side is the older ones had syncro issues just get a cd009 revision trans and your fine.

the biggest weak link is the rods in the vq35, dont expect more then 400 hp reliably out of the de and 500 on the hr motors and your going to be looking at big bucks to upgrade.(i spent ~5k ish on used pauter rods, wossner pistons, fluidamper, arp stud kits, machining, bearings, head gaskets, and cosworth oil control baffle and i got very good deals. unless you have the hookup expect to pay around 6k for the same, mayby a little less machining is rediculous here. depending on power goals eagle rods might work i wouldnt go above 700 with em though.)

turbo kit wise if you go that route expect to pay 4600+ for a new one. i wouldnt do any of the top mount kits personally i would go mid mount or twins, stay away from turbonetics and sts for sure both have huge problems on this platform. clutch you can go southbend for a cheap option, a 100% absolute must though is the rjm clutch pedal bracket its one of the best mods for the platform. engine management i would say get a old haltech for the cost of uprev+boost controller you can get the harness version haltechs.

it is not a cheap venture though expect 10k for a mild power build. for 800 to the wheels(cant wait for new clutch to get broken in lol) ive got about 28k invested now plus the cost of the car and still no brakes or suspension although i could have shaved that a little but i like to tinker. ALOT more if your paying someone else, do the same as i have done to my car minus the tinkering i would charge probably about 40k or so although there is alot of custom work done.

Lol you're talkin mad power, as of right now I'm only looking to run like 350whp, down the like I'm gonna look more into big power when I have the income to afford the expensive build. I love my Wrx but I've been in the subie game for 4 years now, it's not major time, but it's long enough where I'm bored with the scene and want something else. Are these cars still pretty quick stock and with basic bolt ons?

[jerryd1987]

depends what you consider quick its a subjective term and personally theres not very many cars i consider quick from the factory lol. i dont consider what i have to be mad power to be honestly, i make mad pump gas numbers for this engine but thats because i planned accordingly and i do use a octane booster lol.

well if you ever intend for big power this is def not the platform due to very few people knowing how to build the engine correctly AND tune it unless you mayby do a lsx swap its hard to screw up a lsx.
for 350 pretty much any kit will do it but your looking at about 10k roughly to do it, minimum parts you will need is clutch and flywheel, injectors, fuel pump, tuning solution, turbo kit, exhuast, wheels and tires(even 350 whp you will not hook without this and the entire thing will be a waste of money.) plenum spacer and return fuel system is HIGHLY recommended.

stay away from turbonetics and sts like i said before they are junk on this platform and i dont think it needs to be said but dont use ebay crap.............

there are other front mount kits that are quality like momentum if you can find one or powerlab, theres also the twin turbo kits although for those and 10k budget your gona need to go used, personally im a big supporter of boosted performance mid mount, the 6266 will support your goal all the way up to 600 to the wheels with no mods to the kit, he also offers turbo options up to 1k whp. has some of the best customer support ive er seen(dynosty, boosted performance, southbend, and concept z performance love this shops and will shamelessly plug just for there customer service) cheapest price(4600 starting cant remember price on kit with injectors, fuel pump, and uprev though) and despite what people say it WILL NOT scrap literally you would have to tear your sub frame off the car for the kit to scrap(people think it will because it mounts under the car but it mounts higher then nearly everything under the car pretty much right behind the shifter.)

with that said for your goal and best option i would personally recommend the lsx swap, you will have your power goal on a stock engine, more stock block power, more insane power level potential, costs about the same mayby a little more mayby a little less depending what engine you go with, has better reliability since less power on each component due to it being a v8, and more options for one stop shopping(tune and build in same place which in my opinion is required so one person is responsible and you dont get screwed by finger poiting.) oh yah also its the same price to build if you go for a high power build.

only time i recommend the vq is for mid power builds like mine(yah in the modern era i consider 600-900 mid level, tx2kxx you will get laughed at with those power levels) because the vq can do it no problem and both options require a build. stock block levels the lsx does it with better reliability and insane levels the lsx does it for cheaper.(go ask vtr how much it would cost for there 1600 whp vq engine lol)

also do know that if both cars are built correctly a 500 hp wrx will beat a 575-600 hp z from a launch and probably out to the 1/8th. you will catch pretty quick but its hard to compete with awd in terms of grip, its not for me personally but you should just be well aware. you would need about a 40 mph roll or massive drag slicks(28 inchers which require cut fenderwell or very very selective wheel spacing and limit to about 275-285 width) to take the wrx

[BusyBadger]

Jerry, I've always found it a little funny that you have that monster Z but live in one of the smallest states in The Union. Not much space out there to get it up to speed on The Islands, is there?

I picture that thing tearing across the Texas panhandle with its nice high speed limits and loads of space, tumbleweeds blowing in your wake and armadillos scurrying to get out of the way.

[jerryd1987]

no there isnt, theres some stuff that happens but ill not discuss it openly lol.

i have no intention of staying here i cant wait till my deros is up in nov and can leave im originally from ohio but im worried i might get a stop movement and have to stay here an extra year. i do intend to take it to tx2kxx whenever i get back stateside as well as z nat's its just a matter of when, i bought the z when looking for a 240sx to put a monster rb26 or 30 into and the deal was just too good. msrp was 15k5 and i got it for 11k. last fast car was 500 hp camaro so only stepped it up a little with this car, if i get bored then ill go 427 lsx with twin 88's lol

[emhmotorsports]

Lol you're talkin mad power, as of right now I'm only looking to run like 350whp, down the like I'm gonna look more into big power when I have the income to afford the expensive build. I love my Wrx but I've been in the subie game for 4 years now, it's not major time, but it's long enough where I'm bored with the scene and want something else. Are these cars still pretty quick stock and with basic bolt ons?

Nissan didn't leave much on the table with the VQ35, so to even hit 350 HP is going to require substantial cash outlay...

I have a 2003 (number 3887 off the assembly line). The only problems I've had with it in 10 years have been what BB mentioned (tire wear and passenger window motor). The tire wear / alignment seems to be more pronounced on the OEM Bridgestone RE040s, and Bridgestone changed the tire construction for later year Zs. If you live in an area with lots of potholes, it will be worth your time to become buddies with a guy who owns an alignment shop. If the tires are worn, it will sound like a monster truck at about 40 MPH. The window motors seem to last about 2 years.

The transmissions seem pretty stout (as seen from many on this forum that are putting some crazy power through them), and the VQ35 has been on Ward's 10-best Engines list since its debut - it is a pretty solid V6.

I will tell you that the 350Z is not built for everybody. It is a purpose-built sports car, so it can be rough and raw at times, but will ultimately reward the driver that "pets it properly". This car shines as an all-around good sports car. It's not the best in any one area, but does very well at everything. If you're a go-fast in a straight-line sort of person, I think there are other platforms that will be better and more cost effective (my current favorite is the Mustang). If you're the kind of person that enjoys a brisk drive through some twisty mountain roads or having a blast at a track day, the 350Z does it better than any other $30k sports car I have driven.

[jerryd1987]

pretty much what emh said although for twistys i would say a miata or frs/brz be better straight line has better options too but the z gives decent jack of all trades type performance although there are options that do some of those better and are still jack of all trades