Coupe Intake Options? Which one actually puts the most power to the rear wheels?

[mikeatx]

I've been reading post on here for 2 hours and still don't have an answer.

I go pick up my '03 Coupe 6MT on tuesday and want to order whatever parts I need to get some quick throttle responce and as much extra HP to the rear as possible.

I intend to always keep my coupe N/A and just want it to get as much air as it will ever need being NA.

Does anybody have Dyno results for all possible intake options?

Before reading I was going to buy the Injen or AEM Cold Air.

Then I read that Nismo makes one as well. So I continue reading.

Next is Z-Tube and Pop Charger? Sounded painful at first glance.

The Z-Tube looks like it would create alot more turbulance than a nice smooth aluminum intake (AEM, Injen or Nismo)

But the pop charger part seems reasonable. Supposedly that area infront of the grill is high pressure and feeds alot of air into the intake. But it still just pushes air at the filter, and its not like that area is air tight, or all that cool. So it isn't really cold air, cool air.

Then I see this artically that basically says K&N filters that I've been running on every car I've ever owned and felt the throttle responce and HP at high Rs are crap.

If it hasn't already happened. Somebody needs to put a coupe up on the dyno and bolt all these toys on them and run it.

Opinions are fine, but I'm not gonna spend 300 bucks on an intake just because someone thinks it works better. I and I'm sure many others would like to see actual data.

If I had access to a dyno and knew a few coupe owners that had all these various mods, I'd put my car up there and run it half a dozen times to get this info.


Modified by mikeatx at 6:43 AM 8/7/2006

[GamingMom]

Injen Dyno Sheet - pre and post install

http://www.injen.com/webpages/...2.jpg

JWT Pop Charger Dyno Sheet

http://www.jimwolftechnology.c...D=444

I can't find the dyno sheet for the AEM CAI, maybe someone else will help.

I doubt that the Z-tube alone has been dyno'd but I do know that it allows you to hear more of the engine sound vs. the G-tube that has more dampening on it.

[mikeatx]

Awesome. I found the Injen dyno, but hadn't seen the Pop Charger.

So basically

10.9 WHP with Injen CAI6.5 WHP with JWT Pop Charger

Has anybody done a dyno run with their G35 with both setups on the same day? That would definatly offer more accurate results.

Does the JWT Pop Charger and the Z-Tube setup create any pressure at the intake when your moving? Obviously this couldn't be tested on a dyno unless the dyno happened to be in a wind tunnel. lol. I would imagine even .5 to 1 psi of air pressure at highway speeds would definatly create some HP.

I see Stillen says their high flow air box adds 11 HP at 6100 RPMs on the sedan and 5 ponies at 5,700 RPM to the Coupe.

So many options.

I assume the plastic Z-Tubes won't heat soak like the polished and chrome ones will?
Modified by mikeatx at 6:44 PM 8/7/2006

[gjohnson66]

Well, I haven't dyno-ed my set-up yet (just too hot right now in Texas) but I chose to go with an Ingen CAI and coupled it with a Kinetix SSV intake manifold. I've noticed a BIG difference in the engine's performance!

Try these...

http://www.kinetixracing.com

http://www.ingen.com/index_04.html

[mikeatx]

Ok, so I think this is what I'm going to do.

Gonna go with the Stillen High Flow kit and Z-Tube. Going to replace the filter with an AEM Dryflow.

I figure the standard Z-Tube won't heatsoak since its plastic, the Stillen kit looks to be the best design from what I've seen and the AEM Dryflow will give me great airflow without sacrifising filtration and without blowing oil all up in my intake.

Looking at the Stillen kit, even tho it doesn't dyno all that well on the coupe, my opinion is that it will produce the most power when the car is rolling and having a good amount of air pushed threw it. You can't test that on a dyno, unless you put it in a wind tunnel. lol

I'd like to get the Chrome Z-Tube, but I think it would just be a decrease in performance with this texas heat. Just looks good.

[Q45tech]

For a speed of 150 mph, the resulting maximum theoretical pressure would be about 27mb (approximately .4 psi). At 75 mph it would 0.1 psi.

P = 0.5 x r x v^2

Unfortunately getting anywhere close to max would cause too much aerodynamic drag and offset most or more than the gains

[AZhitman]

Whatever you do, make sure you retain the OEM filter. You've read the reasoning.

If you MUST spend $ for 3 HP, you can find it elsewhere without eendangering your engine.

$45 for a Z tube, $50 to switch to synthetic oil, take out your spare tire, and $50 for Redline fluids in your trans / diff will net you the same HP at the wheels.

For less money than that intake, you can buy the Motordyne plenum spacer, which is a simple install and has documented gains (more than an intake).

[mikeatx]

Why would I use the OEM Filter? The AEM Dryflows are better than anything else from what I've read on here. Better flitration, no oil to damage sensors, easy to clean, etc.

The OEM filter wouldn't work with the Stillen kit and z-tube anyways. The whole point is to get ride of that big factory air box and get a little HP and much better throttle response.

The intake and z-tube run around $220 bucks and net you about 5-6 HP. Plus $50 for the AEM Dryflow. The thermal plenum spacer runs $330 and gains you a bit more. I plan to do that as well, but not going to install a plenum spacer without give it some more room to breath up front.

I'm also looking at the oil pan spacer, but want to do some more research first. An extra quart is always good.

I'm not going with a standard cold air system because of the water risk.

I also run Mobil 1 Synthetic, and its about 25 bucks per oil change, not 50.

My intentions are to begin with the intake, move on to free up the manifold with a plenum spacer, then get headers, high flow cats and a true dual exhaust system. I want my G to breathe as much air as possible with no restriction from the front to the rear.

I want to keep my car natually asperated and get to or close to 350HP at the rear wheels. Once I get the power I want, I want to upgrade my 18's to a wider set to fit a wider tire and just enjoy the ride.

[mikeatx]

I assumed the force wouldn't be too great, thats a little less than I expected, but not far off. The thing is with the stillen kit or pop charger, you are still getting a bit of cold air forced into that factory scoop under the hood. Even tho the drag coefficient will more than cancel any gains. You will still be gaining HP that you otherwise wouldn't with something like an Injen Cold Air.

A regular cold air intake is going to produce the same HP on a dyno as it would going down the highway at 70mph.

The factory scoop will feed a bit more air to the stillen kit or pop charger at speed and produce a slight amount of extra hp. I'm sure none of this would be noticable, but in theory, I think the stillen kit is the best setup overall. I could be wrong, but at the cost of a couple of HP, it really isn't the big of a deal.

I just want to avoid the risk of water issues with standard CAI. I like the Z-Tube for its sound and design and I think the stillen kit takes the most advantage of the stock pieces and solves all my concerns. I just wish the Stillen kit came with a Dryflow instead of the K&N type I won't be using.

[AZhitman]

OK, I should have explained further.

First of all, why would you endanger your engine for a ONE horsepower gain (filter)?

zerothread?id=180100

Don't believe the marketing hype about the AEM.

Also, 350 RWHP on an N/A VQ is all but impossible, unless you're doing some internal work.

I think your overall reasoning is sound, and if you MUST go with an aftermarket intake / airbox, the Stillen would be my recommendation.

[joe603]

One thing that should be mentioned is the sound of aftermarket intake components. I have the Z-tube/pop charger/spacer setup, and the sound is a vast improvement over stock.

However, some G35 owners want a quiet car, which is why Infiniti used the chambered intake track (instead of the 350Z straiter one).

The HP gains are there, but it will be difficult to feel the extra 10-15...Also remember that the 300 HP is at the flywheel (240 at the wheels)...to get to you're 350 HP at the wheels, a 100HP increase, a power adder will be required (NOS/Forced air).

[mikeatx]

I prefer running NA and squeezing power out of every little spot I can. I've always been more pleased with a very well tuned NA car than a blown or turbo car.

I think I could eventually hit that 350 mark, or at least close running NA with no NOS or anything. Get it as much air as possible in and out. Upgrade to an Ignition system like MSD if they make them for this car. Stronger fuel system, bigger injectors, bigger cams, ecu flash, underdrive pullies, etc etc.

This is just kinda generalized, but I had a '97 integra with the above mods and took it from just over 100 HP to 267 at the front wheels. It was about 6k in mods, but its still one of the fastest NA Acura 1.8L I've yet too see. And it ran really smooth.

I know the G is tuned much better from the factory, so it will be much more difficult to get that 350 HP. I basically know what I want to do, and I'll see where it gets me. The 350 is just a goal, I may or may not hit it, but I'll sure try.

[gjohnson66]

I understand your thought process and respect the direction in which you want to take your car, but I also have to agree with AZhitman -- getting 350 WHP is going to be near impossible. However that being said, I believe that you will be pleased with your car if you install all of the parts you've described.

One side note: I'm one of the few people who chose/will choose not to go with the Motordyne spacer. I have the Kinetix SSV intake manifold for two reasons: 1.) Unlike yourself, I plan to supercharge my car in the future and the SSV channels more air than a stock plenum with a spacer ever will, and 2.) It looks so cool!!!

In any event, best of luck with your modifications on your car.

[mikeatx]

350 was just an estimate. I owned an old muscle car years ago and a couple of Acuras over the past few years.

Its easy to get big HP gains on cars that arn't finely tuned from the factory. From everybodies statements, I can only assume its gonna take alot more to get big gains on the G.

I just want my ride to substantially out perform another stock or slightly modified G I happen to meet up with. Maybe go play at the track with it from time to time. (Course I wouldn't do that on my 18s).

I'll just go with the mods I'm considering and see where it gets me. I already love the car bone stock. It has those Pilot Sport tires on it and at stock its hard to keep them stuck to the road in 1st and 2nd.

I think now that I finally have the car I want to look into at least better tires. Hopefully wider wheels and better tires. So far it seems way to easy to break that rear end loose and have the tracking control blinking at ya.

I'll do the reasearch on each new part I buy and find the best option for each step.

I've look at the thermal plenum spacer a bit and have seen the Kinetix SSV but havn't reallly compared the 2 yet. Once I get ready to buy more toys for the car I'll see what looks best.

[mikeatx]

That artical is about the K&N Oiled filters. They don't filter well and blow oil in your intake and can damage sensors. After reading that artical I won't ever buy K&N or similar for anything. The stillen kit comes with the K&N and its going in the trash as soon as I get it. I will never install it on my car. I'm gonna spend the extra 50 bucks and order a Dryflow to protect my motor and get the full use of the stillen kit and z-tube.

The AEM Dryflow filter is not an oiled filter. I've read several articals about it on here and keep hearing that its the way to go if your going to do away with the stock airbox. It filters better and doesn't harm your motor/sensors with stick oil and dirt. At least thats what I've read here.

[mikeatx]

Anybody know of a vendor or one of the Nico sponsors that can sell me the following parts together?

Stillen High Flow Airbox (Without the oiled filter)Stillen Z-TubeAEM Dryflow filter

This is the setup I want to install on my G, but trying not to order all these parts from different places and spending a ton on shipping.

[The_Scooch]

I put Mobil1 synthetic fluids in my engine, transmission and diff. Is there really that big of a difference between that and Redline?

[The_Scooch]

350 rwhp without boost is impossible. Keep in mind that the HP ratings that the manufacturer gives are AT THE CRANK. Your 287 HP engine is actually approximately 240 something at the wheels. 100+ more ponies is not going to come with just better inhaling/exhaling alone.

[mikeatx]

As I said before. I'll install the mods and see were it gets me. 350 was just a guess before I had done much research. I don't really care what the number is. I just have a list of mods in mind that will get the car to be even more fun to drive.

These stock tires have definatly got to go tho. When you can light up the wheels in a corner in 2nd with little throttle at 20mph, those crappy Michelins have got to go!

Was starting to think that VDC light was just letting me know I'm making a turn. lol

[The_Scooch]

Yeah, I kind of have a love/hate thing with the VDC. I got in a pickle with some ******* that cut me off and the VDC probably saved my ***. But most of the time, it pisses me off.

[joe603]

Yup...same here. I wish the disengage button was on the steering wheel....

[The_Scooch]

Whomever edited my post... Thanks for the subtle hint. No more potty mouth from me.

[mikeatx]

I've been reading everything I can find and am still a bit confused....

I'm definatly doing the Z-Tube. Mostly just for that sound, but the little extra HP can't hurt.

I'm also going to do the Motordyne thing.

Which one is the best bang/buck on my '03 Coupe 6MT?

I'm thinking the ISO Thermal 5/16th Spacer for $290 on Motordyne's website. Is that right?

I may/may not replace the stock air box, but want to find some more info on filter options and such.

[ezflow]

Anybody know of a vendor or one of the Nico sponsors that can sell me the following parts together?

Stillen High Flow Airbox (Without the oiled filter)Stillen Z-TubeAEM Dryflow filter

I had considered the AEM dryflow for much the same reasons you did.I ended up going with the Amsoil dry filter. Same idea. The Amsoil claims nanofibers delivers the same high air flow, but much better contamination control, compared with oiled gauze.Just a yearly cleaning with light shop air or a vacuum. 4 year life. (or 100Kmiles)You can also get the Amsoil in custom cone sizes, etc. but the panel for the G35 is EAA74. I hope to see some test results. The last filter I used was an oil foam, (TruFlow). Nice filter. But I am more skeptical about using oil in any air filter.The new dry filters look like a better alternative to paper, in that they are at least semi-permanent and will not choke up like a paper filter.

[The_Scooch]

Tony at Motordyne will have the best advise on that.

[szh]

I put Mobil1 synthetic fluids in my engine, transmission and diff.

WARNING: Putting anything other than Nissan Fluid J (this is a new formulation ... well, new as of a few years ago now!) in your transmission (I mean the automatic, of course) will void the warranty on the transmission for sure since the new fluid is needed for this generation of Infiniti transmissions. Infiniti Corporate confirmed this for me on this transmission (this same model is also used in my M45, with minor mods) - the transmission will be damaged for long-term performance.

This information is highlighted in many places in the Service Manual (and mentioned in the Owner's Manual too, as I recall).

Z

[szh]

Whomever edited my post... Thanks for the subtle hint. No more potty mouth from me.

It is automatic - the forum software does it!

Z

[The_Scooch]

I have a 6MT.

[jagerisgood]

I got the best bang for my buck out of the APS Tall-Boy Plenum with aftermarket cats