Could really use some help from another rb20 owner in the Phoenix area

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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DriftingisLame
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Car: '91 240sx coupe, rb20det

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I'm having a really weird problem with my car that seems to be getting worse.

I've made a thread about it before but I feel I've tried all of those things 1 or 3 times. If theres anyone around the phoenix area with a well running rb20 I could really use some help swapping a few parts with ones that we know work (from your car). I'm done trying to understand the problem and I really just need it fixed, I'm 99% convinced its a sensor of some sort. I'd rather pinpoint the problem instead of buying a new part everytime I've got an idea lol!

Please reply here or e-mail me at [email protected]

Thanks a ton dudes! -Max


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DriftingisLame
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Car: '91 240sx coupe, rb20det

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The old rb20's getting more and more tired every day, my weird problem is getting worse and worse..

The car's also been leaking or burning coolant from somewhere.

The rb20's seen better days...

Yellow4g63
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Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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Well the headgasket could be done or you have a small leak in one of the coolant hoses under the intake manifold. You should prob check there 1st and replace them if you can get to it. You will need to take the starter out tho.

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DriftingisLame
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Car: '91 240sx coupe, rb20det

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I'm starting to rule out the headgasket at this point. The car never smells weird or smokes, or anything like that... Just looses a ton of coolant every day... I've had tiny holes in those hoses below the intake manifold before and when the car heats up it blows coolant everywhere.. Not this time, I cant see a leak anywhere yet I probably loose 2-3 litres of coolant per day.

I really wish I would have thought to take the starter out when I was replacing that rear coolant hose, so far the one's i've replaced I havent been able to see! lol

Joe
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Location: Phoenix, AZ

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well coolant has 3 places to go

1) stay in the cooling passages, hoses, radiator

2) on the ground (leak)

3) into the combustion chamber, or oiling system (headgasket)

there are no other options. so find a leak, or start getting ready to pull the head....

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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dead waterpump or leaky hose?

Yellow4g63
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Kamin wrote:well coolant has 3 places to go

1) stay in the cooling passages, hoses, radiator

2) on the ground (leak)

3) into the combustion chamber, or oiling system (headgasket)

there are no other options. so find a leak, or start getting ready to pull the head....
I vote #3 I have had this happen to my DSM a long time ago

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DriftingisLame
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I'm pretty sure its just a really hard to find leak, my oil is normal (not milky), car doesnt smoke or make any strange smells.

My real problem is the random stalling. Soon as my car starts warming up, its like perfect clockwork how this thing messes up. When its warming up, the car wont rev past a certain point, usually 1000 rpm, if I can get it past 1500 rpm it runs perfectly and totally normal. I have to bog at 1000 rpm all the way to 4th or 5th gear, then slam it into 1st or second. Once its been at operating temp for a little while, the rpm that it messes up at is much higher, like around 3500. I can start the car, and the car idles and runs with an ignition miss, sounds like 4 cylinders to me. It will miss like that but drive normally until I hit 3500, then the car instantly dies, even with throttle, the car dies no matter what. If I get up to speed and downshift to get the car back up above 3500, it runs flawlessly. I've unplugged, or rapidly cooled just about all my sensors, since it seems to be heat related.

Does this sound like a sensor? I have trouble believing its a harness problem or mechanical failure of some sort as the problem is very consistantly perfect.

I'm really running out of idea's dudes, suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Carl, 4g, Nancy.. You guys are ballers. Thanks for the responses.

-Max

Yellow4g63
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Ecu Throw any codes? problems like that sucks because now you have to start replacing shyt. Did you find anyone with a RB20 in your area? That Opek guy in your area? the guy with the RHD rb20?

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DriftingisLame
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Yes he is and I've been meaning to track him down. And I know what you mean, it seems as though replacing stuff is my last option... hence the purpose of this post, so I dont have to guess you know? I'm too broke to do process of elimination, haha...

I ran a diagnostic and got MAF and Knock sensor. I unplugged my maf and drove and everything ran the same, of course it wouldnt go past 2500 with it unplugged though.. I think the knock sensor is throwing a code because of the way the damn thing shakes when it hits its weird rev limiter-like miss.

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smapdee2k
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Hey man, I live over in Chandler. I'd be happy to help out sometime but my schedule is kinda busy. Let me know your best times to meet up. Will it make it to Chandler without too much trouble?

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S14-NEO
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx RB25 NEO powered

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ok heres what you do....remove the spark plugs(make sure your on a level surface) get your hands on a coolant system pressure tester(basically a hand pump with a gauge that connects to the top of your radiator ) pump it up to 15psi...look and listen....use a flashlight to check down in the cylinders to see if you are puddling up in any cylinder...also with pressure tester you can look around the engine for leaks without getting the unholy piss burned out of you in the process..and its also alot easier to listen to the hissing sounds when the engine is shut off.

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DriftingisLame
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smapdee2k wrote:Hey man, I live over in Chandler. I'd be happy to help out sometime but my schedule is kinda busy. Let me know your best times to meet up. Will it make it to Chandler without too much trouble?


Nice, it can make it to chandler, it will just be nice and heated up and running like crap by the time I get there... I'll bring some extra coolant and a buddy behind me in a reliably slow honda, haaa...

My e-mail address is [email protected], I'm probably just as busy as you, weekends are really the only time I have to spare... Just shoot me an e-mail and we'll work something out.

Thanks!-Max

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rotorimp
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+1 for the pressure test! I would be interested to know how the plugs look (I know it has been asked before)

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DriftingisLame
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Car: '91 240sx coupe, rb20det

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Okay so the car is definately dead.

I was on the freeway today and traffic started to slow down.. I was at 3500 rpm in 5th gear and the car started to sputter, so I hooked 4th gear and hit the gas a little....

BAM BAM BAM BAM

Many explosions, then.. death. Need some suggestions. I havent checked for spark yet but I'm almost 100% sure its not getting any spark. It just cranks and cranks and doesnt even try to start.

Things I'm suspecting:ECUIgnitorCAS....?

I'm car less, all suggestions appreciated.

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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ignitor has finaly taken a poop, see the j30 retrofit bit that i posted which was recently ressurected.

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DriftingisLame
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Car: '91 240sx coupe, rb20det

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I'm still waiting for my spare ignitor to be shipped to me from back home.. I took my ECU out and took the covers off and unbolted the top panel.

The strip going from the lower panel to the upper panel has a bunch of connections going through it... the one in the middle is discolored, like much darker than the rest. But theres a space in the middle, no black, no discoloration.

It looks to me like that connection heated up and eventually blew. However I test continuity from both bases of the connection, one on the lower board and one on the upper, and I read about .2 ohms of resistance. should I put a jumper wire there?

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DriftingisLame
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Carl, have you personally had an ignitor fail on you? What were the symptoms?

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Carl H
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that strip is normaly diffrent, dont worry about it...as far as ignitor failure yes i have had them go bad and it is pretty much how you described it.

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DriftingisLame
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Car: '91 240sx coupe, rb20det

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Thanks carl, I'll be doing that then.


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