Cost?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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Rusted_PS13
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I just read some archived post, and one if it said it would cost more than 1300 for the swap, can someone verify this and explain why?

ThanksMike


kapower06
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at least 1000 alone for a good motor set (more like 1300) or 1500 or more for a good front clip, plus new hoses, downpipe, exhaust, fuel pump, boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, intercooler plus piping(unless complete front clip) vaccum lines, fuel lines, spark plugs, o2 sensor, gaskets, belts, timing belt and tensioner, possibly a water and oil pump. plus installation unless your doin it your self.

capwred
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i paid 2100 for my front clip but it had some after market parts with it.and the only thing i did was replace all the fluids.but has done more since i have had it going.

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fanta
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Extra money for unforseen obstacles is absolutely necessary, do not ignore this.Random bits add up rather fast. Depending on the condition of your engine, the amount of new/rebuilt parts it will need will drive you past that amount. You should freshen up as much as you can, steering and all, while the motor is out.

Save up.

boost_boy
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Rusted_PS13 wrote:I just read some archived post, and one if it said it would cost more than 1300 for the swap, can someone verify this and explain why?

ThanksMike
The supply of CAs are now limited due to their age, the fact the shipping charges are being driven up as we speak because of fuel prices, and it's popularity has risen. THey are still cheap, but you can also get an RB20DET motorset somewhere in that price range.

Dee

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rico05
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I got mine to my house for $1288. SMIC and piping was $125. Plugs/fluids was about $50. KA24E MAF was $15. I bought a modded harness and sold my uncut stock one for a $5 profit. That was all it took for me to get mine running. Now, that is without exhaust, which you will have to pick on your own (I did ProjectSilvia extension/downpipe/testpipe for ~$300 and HKS HiPower catback for $650 + shipping) and any other maintenance you feel so inclined to do (Felpro gasket kit ~$150, headgasket $100-$300, etc). Really, it is a pretty cheap swap.

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Rusted_PS13
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How much did it cost you to make that intercooler piping that you have on your site Rico? Do you still have your original plastic piping? Did you change out all your lines?

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rico05
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I got the coldpipe for too much on eBay. I am hoping to go to SGP (finally) in Houston early next year to get a Al hotpipe and fitting for my HKS SSQV, and they quoted me anywhere from $100-$150 for the pipe in aluminum.

And what lines are you talking about? I canged my vac lines with the motor on the ground, and my coolant after every one of them has burst on the car. Quick hint: change ALL lines of any kind with the motor out!

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Rusted_PS13
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Been rounding up some price for the misc. parts and it's gonna cost me 380 and up, that excluding the fluids/oil, spark plugs, gaskets, and the other stuff that may be wrong with the motor when i get the chance to order one. So far all I was told i'd need and should get prior to the swap:-Downpipe (SSAC) $100.00-Intercooler and piping (If i dont get one in the set)(not included in my pricing)-Vacuum and Coolant lines(how much?)-BOV $55.00, (should i go with the HKS 1st gen?)-Turbo Timer $100ish?-Warlbro Fuel Pump $90.00-Timing Belt $20.99-02 Sensor $20.00-Thermostat $5.00

Is there anything else I am missing or should do?

PS: Any inputs on the kit from SSAC that comes with the downpipe, dumptube, and manifold?

P.S.S: Boost_Boy can you get back to my email?

P.S.S.S: Rico05 your never on AIM man

Thanks in advance guys,Mike

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teddy
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You are better off purchasing just the downpipe and a turbo outlet and getting the engine running before you start upgrading more things. It's best to know everything works before shelling out cash for misc. items.

Coolant hoses shoudn't cost too much. At autozone I think they charge like $1/foot of hosing. I also picked up a samco silicone vacuum hose kit for I think about 20 or so shipped. It came with 10ft of vacuum hose.A new fuel filter would be a good idea too while you're doing all the maintenance.

Also, if your motorset/clip arrives looking like mine, you're going to need a few bottles of engine degreaser.

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Rusted_PS13
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All the parts i listed is necessary for the CA swap right?

capwred
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Downpipe (SSAC) $100.00-Intercooler and piping (If i dont get one in the set)(not included in my pricing)-Vacuum and Coolant lines(how much?)-BOV $55.00, (should i go with the HKS 1st gen?)-Turbo Timer $100ish?-Warlbro Fuel Pump $90.00-Timing Belt $20.99-02 Sensor $20.00-Thermostat $5.00

ok i guess your getting a motor set.it depends what you get with the motor set.some come with a dp.you can run the ca with the 240 fuel pump but i would go ahead and change it.but you dont have to have a bov,turbo timer,02 sensor.i got a clip when i got mine and got everthing i needed with the clip to do the swap.


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Rusted_PS13
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So it is safe to run it on the 240SX fuel pump? I just want a long life for the motor so i was gonna get the Turbo Timer and BOV and Timing Belt to make sure the motor will last.

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tyrannix
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i got your choice either blitz or greddy full auto turbo timer for $60 shipped (with harness)

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Rusted_PS13
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If you can hold one of them for me, i'll get it

boost_boy
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Rusted_PS13 wrote:If you can hold one of them for me, i'll get it
Done!

Dee

NeedCAforS13
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you don't NEED a turbo timer. You DO need an upgraded fuel pump. Just let the car idle for a minute or two before shutting it off. No big deal.

Sean

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rico05
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Indeed. Get that pump before anything. And be forwarned: apparently the SSAC dp is not all that well made, and only like 2.25" diameter. While that is fine for low boost, it will become a serious restriction down the line. I ran w/o a BOV for like 5-6 months at 7psi no problem. It is really not a terribly necessary part.

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Rusted_PS13
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So basically, i should just get a downpipe and fuel pump for now, and the basic tune up(hoses, plugs, etc.) ?

And Dee just e-mail me when you get the shipment of motor in, if you don't mind.

Thanks,Mike

NeedCAforS13
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Rusted_PS13 wrote:So basically, i should just get a downpipe and fuel pump for now, and the basic tune up(hoses, plugs, etc.) ?
PERFECT. a kid who listens to advice! good luck with the swap and have fun with it

Sean

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Rusted_PS13
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The SR20DET downpipe and CA18DET downpipe are alike right? Will I run into any problems using a SR20DET downpipe?

Would I need a dumptube?

Mike

NeedCAforS13
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yes. to run an SR20 downpipe, you need an SR20 dump tube (o2 housing)

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Rusted_PS13
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I just heard a rumor that parts is not being made anymore, OE and aftermarket...please, someone tell me this isn't true...

NeedCAforS13
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where do you hear this stuff? honestly... nothing has changed in the last 2 weeks since you started wanting a CA till now.

Nissan has stopped making some parts for quite some time now. There's lots left in dealer stock though, so don't sweat it. If Nissan runs out of whatever you need, there's other companies that fill in the void (Top Line makes all the gaskets, so does cometic). And there's tons of aftermarket parts. If anything there's more than before. Just relax. God, now we're going to have 12 new threads tomorrow on how some rumor says there's no more CA18 parts being made...

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Rusted_PS13
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haha, sorry about sweating that...im such a n00b.

CA is still in the top list!!!!

NeedCAforS13
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haha it would be like someone saying there's no more parts for the KA24E. because they're from the same year...

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teddy
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NeedCAforS13 wrote:haha it would be like someone saying there's no more parts for the KA24E. because they're from the same year...
what?!? theres no more parts for the ka-e? My life is ruined. I'm gonna go start a new thread now.

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Rusted_PS13
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I just found a site called JapanMotorImports.com and they sell pretty good price CA's over there, only problem is their located in Canade. I tried doing a search on them but I only got one result and it was a positive one. I don't know if i should go with the cheaper prices or not.

Thanks,Mike

81na ZX
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rico05 wrote:I ran w/o a BOV for like 5-6 months at 7psi no problem. It is really not a terribly necessary part.
Well it depends. If you like your turbo and want it to last, its very necessary .

But if you never shift while boosting and easy off throttle all the time - never abruptly clost the TB, you'll be fine.

Moral: if your planning on upgrading the turbo soon and aren't going to be racing around, you'll be ok for a little while.

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Rusted_PS13
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Update: I don't think i'll be going with JapanMotorImports, I don't think i can deal with any troubles with shipping so i'm gonna stick with Boost_Boy.

-Mike


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