Corner Light Resistors...

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LongBeachCoupe
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Hey Guys... Im a migrating bird from the Altima Coupe forums... Hopefully you guys will have the answers im looking for.

I am swapping the factory headlights and fogs for HID, and while im in there i want to change the corner signal bulb... As a result because of the lower power, it will cause a fast blink...

What i am trying to figure out is what type of resistor i need to get to make it blink regular speed, and where can i get them..

Thanks!LBC


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C-Kwik
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I'm not sure what the answer might be, but what are you changing the turn signal lights to?

It might help with the answer as different bulbs have different amperage needs. I would assume that you would need to find out the load the original bulb placed on the electrical circuit and then try and mimic that as best you can.

joe603
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I dont think resistors would make a difference in how fast a bulb blinks...only how bright it is.

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smockers83
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joe603 wrote:I dont think resistors would make a difference in how fast a bulb blinks...only how bright it is.
When you change to LED bulbs, if there isn't a resistor built in you need to get one or else the system thinks its a dead/near dead bulb which makes it blink really fast to let you know to change it.

+1 for C-Kwik

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C-Kwik
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Not sure about other areas, but in california, there was a craze during the mid to late nineties where many people sped up their turn signals. It was easy enough to do on most cars as it would simply require you to replace a bulb with a lower wattage one or remove a bulb from each side (typically a front signal). The downside of course was that you had a dimmer signal light where the bulb was replaced.

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LongBeachCoupe
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hey guys... at the bottom of this pagehttp://www.superbrightleds.com...t=CARtheres 2 resistors... rl-650 (6ohm 50 watt) and rl-2525 (25ohm 25 watt) know which is the fix?

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C-Kwik
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You're going to need to know the resistance present in the factory bulbs and the resistance in the LED bulbs. Since you'll likely need to increase resistance by running a resistor in parallel, just subtract the LED's resistance from the OE bulb's resistance and the result should be your target resistance for the resistor you are looking for.

maik21
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LongBeachCoupe wrote:
i want to change the corner signal bulb... As a result because of the lower power, it will cause a fast blink...

What i am trying to figure out is what type of resistor i need to get to make it blink regular speed, and where can i get them..

Thanks!LBC
if u put a resistor to replace oem bulb u will have troubles... so in fact, led bulbs dont need to much current. do this:

- take the bulb off without disconecting it and conect in parallel the new "led bulb" an atach in the signal corner. only secure the old bulb in a safe flace and dont damage it.

___ + | | (bulb) (led bulb) | |___ _ |

if bulb led dont turn on, conect it with opositive polarity.

this is better than attach some resistor .

oem bulbs had diferent resistance when they are cold or hot.

maybe W = I * E w= watts of bulb , I = current , E = voltaje

E = I * R R = resistance in ohms.

so u have W of the bulb, E is the voltaje battery. find I and put in the second formula to find R = resistance.


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C-Kwik
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Resistance does go up with heat, yes, but it's likely, that in a bulb, the resistance would increase to the peak very quickly (or close to). At that, the current draw at the lower resistance periods would be higher. And as all flashers that I've worked with seem to work with different levels of resistance just fine, I don't anticipate there would be any problems that would occur from this small amount of variable resistance. But if you know something I don't, then please share. But you do bring up an important point. It may be necessary to compensate for ramp up in resistance that occurs with each blink. Perhaps if the flasher somehow uses resistance and/or current to regulate the flashing, then some average value might be needed.

As for running the bulb parallel, if resistance is an important factor, than I would recommend against it. Mainly for the fact that running it in parallel would lower the overall resistance down to a level that is lower than the LED by itself. But without a resistor, it would likely burn up the LED anyways. Not entirely sure if running it in series would be a good idea either as it would have to pass the same current as the bulb.

Did a quick search and found an easy to understand site about LED's. This may help the original poster a great deal:

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

maik21
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C-Kwik wrote:Resistance does go up with heat, yes, but it's likely, that in a bulb, the resistance would increase to the peak very quickly (or close to). At that, the current draw at the lower resistance periods would be higher. And as all flashers that I've worked with seem to work with different levels of resistance just fine, I don't anticipate there would be any problems that would occur from this small amount of variable resistance. But if you know something I don't, then please share. But you do bring up an important point. It may be necessary to compensate for ramp up in resistance that occurs with each blink. Perhaps if the flasher somehow uses resistance and/or current to regulate the flashing, then some average value might be needed.

As for running the bulb parallel, if resistance is an important factor, than I would recommend against it. Mainly for the fact that running it in parallel would lower the overall resistance down to a level that is lower than the LED by itself. But without a resistor, it would likely burn up the LED anyways. Not entirely sure if running it in series would be a good idea either as it would have to pass the same current as the bulb.

Did a quick search and found an easy to understand site about LED's. This may help the original poster a great deal:

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm
u have good points, but the truth is resistance lower when theyre conected parallel, but the resistance of the led plus the resistance it need to conect its high, so the total resistance will be droped a little, something insignificant.

flashers work with current. if u put a less watt bulb, bulb flashes quicker and viceversa.

u dont waste nothing if u do what i told you.

if u work with the formula, leds work with a minimum of current and work with a max volt of 4 volts. do maths and find a higher resistance. dont worry

want2turbo
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New here, but thought I would throw in my two cents.

To make a really long explanation short, the resistance of the light bulb is used to set the blink rate along with a capacitor, (RC time constant)

Resistors in parallel will always calculate to be lower than the lowest resistor, basically more resistors in parallel = less resistance

In series they will simply add up.

To get resistors, is there a Radio Shack in your area? Or maybe a hobby shop, RC kinda place?

I bet they are cheaper than those in the link, you will need to know the resistance and wattage to buy them, if in doubt, go with a higher than expected wattage rating. They will probably get hot.

maik21
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want2turbo wrote:New here, but thought I would throw in my two cents.

To make a really long explanation short, the resistance of the light bulb is used to set the blink rate along with a capacitor, (RC time constant)

Resistors in parallel will always calculate to be lower than the lowest resistor, basically more resistors in parallel = less resistance

In series they will simply add up.

To get resistors, is there a Radio Shack in your area? Or maybe a hobby shop, RC kinda place?

I bet they are cheaper than those in the link, you will need to know the resistance and wattage to buy them, if in doubt, go with a higher than expected wattage rating. They will probably get hot.
thats its the porpuse of keeping bulb conected !! a bulb is cheaper than a big watt resistor.

resistors in parallel makes final resistance lower, but when one of them is too high the resistor can be despreciated.


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