Cooling Options for SR Swap...

[Thoughtful_One]

I'm planning on having an SR swapped in within the next few weeks and I need some advise about which radiator would be best for me.

I'll use this car mostly for daily driving, and I don't plan on exceeding 220 WHP anytime soon. I do eventually plan to auto cross though.

I am thinking of buying a Koyo Copper radiator with Altima fans, which would come out to a total of $200. on top of that I could buy some redline Water Wetter to further reduce temps.

My other option is to purchase another radiator VERY similar to the full aluminum Koyo, plus two 1200 CFM fans, which would cost around $320.

I'm trying to source all of the parts now and then bring these to the shop for installation, as I work full-time.

Do I really need to spend the extra $120 (or even more) on the aluminum one?

[redtop91]

For 220 whp you don't *need* anything. The Stock radiator is plenty capable.

[Thoughtful_One]

Everyone I talk to tells me that the SR has a tendency to run a little hotter. I'm already putting down a good deal of money on the swap, and I think I should do it right the first time.

[Logan76]

Everyone I talk to tells me that the SR has a tendency to run a little hotter. I'm already putting down a good deal of money on the swap, and I think I should do it right the first time.

You just answered your own question, go with the Koyo and the dual fan's, because 220hp will get old really quick, and when you go to 300-350hp your going to want all the cooling help you can get.

[redtop91]

Everyone I talk to tells me that the SR has a tendency to run a little hotter. I'm already putting down a good deal of money on the swap, and I think I should do it right the first time.

I'm not sure what's wrong with their motors. Mine has never passed the second line from the bottom. Even at 130 MPH. But the better safe then sorry approach is wise. Since no radiator upgrade is necessary, even the lowest level upgrade is overkill. Go with the Koyo like Logan said.

[Thoughtful_One]

The full aluminum or the copper? That was really my question in the first place. I wasn't sure which type I should get.

[Fahaka]

factory coolant gauges say nothing about the actual temperature.

As for radiators I say get this one...http://www.arizonazcar.com/radiator.htmlIt requires modification, but it blows everything else away...

Here is the install: zerothread?id=188344

[Thoughtful_One]

I think that one is overkill...

[Fahaka]

yeah well...people here in AZ overheat with Koyo's & fluidynes so for here it is good. We are 100*+ for 6 months a year.

When it is 110* out I run a consistent 185*, I'd rather have the thermostat regulate my coolant temp than the ambient air temp.

[Thoughtful_One]

yeah well...people here in AZ overheat with Koyo's & fluidynes so for here it is good. We are 100*+ for 6 months a year.

When it is 110* out I run a consistent 185*, I'd rather have the thermostat regulate my coolant temp than the ambient air temp.

I'm glad I don't live in AZ. Here in NY, the highest temperature that we've had so far this summer was about 94 and that was only for a few hours.

[otterman]

I'm not sure what's wrong with their motors. Mine has never passed the second line from the bottom. Even at 130 MPH. But the better safe then sorry approach is wise. Since no radiator upgrade is necessary, even the lowest level upgrade is overkill. Go with the Koyo like Logan said.

You realize that your temp gauge is really inaccurate? The temps it reads are "cold, running, f**ked"

[skillzilla]

You realize that your temp gauge is really inaccurate? The temps it reads are "cold, running, f**ked"

hahaha this is so true, I have an HKS fan speed controller, and looking at the stock gauge next to that is funny. 140-210 is all a big grey area

[AE86Gio15]

i would use an aliminum koyo rad with dual fans. running an oil cooler is also a very good. an inexpensive way of improving cooling is by making a shroud in front of the rad so all air is directed into the rad

[eeterp]

Why not use the factory clutch fan? The clutch fan has been proven to work extremely well but, you MUST have the stock radiator shroud. You should also look into the little plate that goes between the top of the bumper and radiator support. Ducting air to go THROUGH your radiator is key.

I've run this setup at the track with mid 300whp and no protest from the cooling system:koyo al radiatorOEM fan shroudOEM clutch fanbumper/radiator support cooling panelnismo thermostat (3+ years old)

[Thoughtful_One]

Why not use the factory clutch fan? The clutch fan has been proven to work extremely well but, you MUST have the stock radiator shroud. You should also look into the little plate that goes between the top of the bumper and radiator support. Ducting air to go THROUGH your radiator is key.

I've run this setup at the track with mid 300whp and no protest from the cooling system:koyo al radiatorOEM fan shroudOEM clutch fanbumper/radiator support cooling panelnismo thermostat (3+ years old)

Right now, for the time being, I will run the stock KA radiator with Redline Water Wetter. Once I recover from my losses, I will purchase a Koyo Copper.

Are you saying that I can run the stock KA radiator and stock SR clutch fan witht he KA shroud? I thought it didn't work because they didn't align properly?

[eeterp]

Right now, for the time being, I will run the stock KA radiator with Redline Water Wetter. Once I recover from my losses, I will purchase a Koyo Copper.

Are you saying that I can run the stock KA radiator and stock SR clutch fan witht he KA shroud? I thought it didn't work because they didn't align properly?

ah, sorry for the confusion. By stock, I meant SR shroud not KA. I have no idea if the KA shroud will work. You can probably get an SR rad and shroud for under $100.

[josephg15]

dont forget you can also go with the nismo thermostat...it opens eariler than the stock thermostat...

[White Comet]

yeah get a koyo, nismo thermostat, e fans, water wetter, and vented cf hood (just cuz its balla)

[skillzilla]

I have a Koyo, Nismo thermostat, dual FAL fans, and an HKS fan speed controller, and my car runs so cold its annoying. I live in Georgia and in the dead of summer time my fans still rarely come on, maybe after sitting idling for awhile. During normal driving and what not it stays between 160-165 F. Kind of annoying actually, on the highway my gas mileage sux.

[ser2102]

hey i just picked up a koyo rad, flex a lite 12 inch dual fans and a DiF fan controller. what temps should i set the fan controller to? like 160 and 180?

[skillzilla]

I have mine set for turn on at 185 and turn off at 175, this usually brings the temps down to 160-165 (it drops that much even after the fans turn off). Im thinking of raising it though, Ive heard 180 is otimal op. temp. for SR's. Not that it will make a difference, any time Im driving it never gets above 170.

[nani]

just get one of this bad boys

[bluemax]

I would suggest you change the temp sensor also while you 're at it.

I had creeping overheating problem with the AC on until someone suggest I changed the temp sensor. Now the car warms up quickly and is rock solid even with the AC on. I have to wait till hotter temp arrives here in SoCal to really put it to the test.

Enjoy..

[Thoughtful_One]

I would suggest you change the temp sensor also while you 're at it.

I had creeping overheating problem with the AC on until someone suggest I changed the temp sensor. Now the car warms up quickly and is rock solid even with the AC on. I have to wait till hotter temp arrives here in SoCal to really put it to the test.

Enjoy..

Is the CTS for the SR compatible with the KA?

[skillzilla]

They are the same size and plug but I have always heard to use the temp sensor that came with the car, i.e. the KA one.

I would suggest you change the temp sensor also while you 're at it.

I had creeping overheating problem with the AC on until someone suggest I changed the temp sensor. Now the car warms up quickly and is rock solid even with the AC on. I have to wait till hotter temp arrives here in SoCal to really put it to the test.

Enjoy..

Maybe you just had an air pocket that the temp sensor removal let loose? It shouldnt have any effect at all on the ability for your car to dissipate heat, all it does is run the temp gauge in the cluster and give a signal to the ECU. Everything cooling-wise is mechanical pretty much, only thing I could see is if maybe the ECU was not letting the AC turn on because it was getting a bad signal from the temp sensor, but you said the AC worked fine. Who knows...

[bluemax]

May be it was an air pocket but I bled the coolant several times for various reasons and still the same problem with creeping overheating problem with the AC on. After the temp sensor changed and filling up with coolant like I always do, car warms up quicker; coolant temp does not fluctuate and is solid.

My setup is a koyo alu with clucth and electric (taurus-for AC) fan. It's working great so far. I have to bend the AC line to get clearance. Other than that, it's all good to go now.

whatever the case, this is my daily driver and I'm glad to have AC and no overheating issue that we hear so much with sr20 setup.

Maybe you just had an air pocket that the temp sensor removal let loose? It shouldnt have any effect at all on the ability for your car to dissipate heat, all it does is run the temp gauge in the cluster and give a signal to the ECU. Everything cooling-wise is mechanical pretty much, only thing I could see is if maybe the ECU was not letting the AC turn on because it was getting a bad signal from the temp sensor, but you said the AC worked fine. Who knows...

[skillzilla]

I hear that man, my 240 is not my DD, I couldnt deal with it not having AC. The previous owner gutted everything AC related out of it too, so no hope in the future

[sr20usmcswim]

If you use a s14 radiator or and mitsubishi evolution radiator with electrical fans you will be fine.

[eeterp]

If you use a s14 radiator or and mitsubishi evolution radiator with electrical fans you will be fine.

why electric fans? The stock clutch fan outflows many (most) aftermarket elec fans and it usually comes free with the motor set

[fstsil80]

e fans ftw

less drag on motor, plus those clutches tend to fail.