I posted earlier on installing a CVT fluid cooler by Hayden listed for the Rogue. Since there are two configurations for the CVT fluid cooler I saw that mine was the coolant based one on the transmission without the external cooler. This meant that no in/out fluid lines. So I hooked in the fluid cooler in-between the coolant feed and CVT fluid cooler reasoning that reducing the temp of the coolant going into the CVT fluid cooler would help the overheating problem (safe mode) in hot weather. Install was pretty straightforward and after I was done I replaced the pint or so of coolant I lost and went for a test drive.

After the engine warmed up temp actually looked lower than normal when all of a sudden it went up three blocks to just below the hot area. I pulled over and popped the hood. The coolant reservoir was still at where I had filled it and I was wondering if the thermostat had opened. Continued to drive but the temp gauge keeps fluctuating to the same hot area then drops a little below normal. Coolant reservoir is still high as I'm waiting for the air in the system to bleed out. Any idea on what caused the change in the temperature gauge fluctuations? Before this the temp gauge was rock stable. Luckily I only removed the inline hose so the whole thing van be put back to stock. Just want to know if the addition of the cooler did this or is it air in the system?

Thanks

Okay, after cool down the coolant level dropped back to normal so I believe the air is out of the system.
Took for a drive and the temp indicator never moved past 6 blocks (normal). So now it's wait and see if the additional coolant cooler is effective at preventing the CVT fluid from getting too hot. Will post an update when I determine this.

So your saying that the transmission fluid is cooled through the radiator like on many vehicles, And you added an external transmission cooler.

How did you mount the external cooler? Are there brackets from the manufacturer, as an option?

We have taken 2 summer vacations (1st transmission) that included many hours on the road each day of the trip. Our transmission began acting up during our 2nd trip so I called the dealer near our hometown. Thankfully it was at 58,000 miles and still under warranty. They replaced it after we got back and no problems so far. But we are past the warranty now on the 2nd transmission. The dealer said it was probably an internal bearing that went out but the fluid was burnt.

Do the Rogue's have a problem with overheating the CVT transmission under normal driving conditions, without pulling anything?

Thanks!

Long distances, in high temps, somewhere over 90 I think, and driving over 65 miles per hour can cause the CVT to overheat.

jtz54, by adding the cooler to the cooling system of the engine you aren't necessarily helping keep the transmission temperatures down. All you are doing is making your engine cooling system slightly more effective. For you to make any difference in the transmission oil temperatures you need to add the external oil cooler to the transmission system some how. Unfortunately that stupid cooling block on the side of the transmission is not sold separately so you'd have to try to find one online to swap with yours, assuming they are interchangeable so that you have the proper inlet and outlets to hook up an external cooler for the transmission oil to pass through.

Agree but since the cooling block isn't sold separately I thought this might help a bit.

jtz54

I've got good news for you. I did some research and the cooling block is sold separately, this is the one with the 4 pipes, 2 for the inlet and outlet of coolant and 2 for the inlet and outlet of the transmission oil so you can route it to an external cooler.
If you purchase the cvt oil cooler kit from Nissan B1606-JM01A whch is for the Rogue it comes with the new oil block so that you have the ability to run the external oil cooler which has its own part number of 21606-1XF0A. The cooling block is not cheap at $320 or so but it would allow you to properly install an external tranmission oil cooler to the vehicle.

That's good news. Thanks for checking into that. I'll save up for the cooling block.

slcslugger wrote:jtz54

I've got good news for you. I did some research and the cooling block is sold separately, this is the one with the 4 pipes, 2 for the inlet and outlet of coolant and 2 for the inlet and outlet of the transmission oil so you can route it to an external cooler.
If you purchase the cvt oil cooler kit from Nissan B1606-JM01A whch is for the Rogue it comes with the new oil block so that you have the ability to run the external oil cooler which has its own part number of 21606-1XF0A. The cooling block is not cheap at $320 or so but it would allow you to properly install an external tranmission oil cooler to the vehicle.

Any chance you could find the part number for the B16 Sentra four-port cooling block? It comes in a service kit with part number 21606-ET89B.

Thanks for the part number research. Ended up ordering the cooler block (since I already had the Hayden cooler) for $229 from NewAuto parts. It is genuine Nissan and looks like the stock block with the exception of two 5/16" pipes for the tranny fluid in/out. Re-piped the Hayden to the tranny fluid lines and re-installed the original hose. Will report back here to see what a difference (if any) this setup makes and my 10 mile uphill drive. The first CVT was replaced under warranty at 85K. At 150K now and it whines going up long hills especially when the weather gets hot in Arizona.

hello everyone! i have a 2007 nissan sentra 2.0 s. and ive have transmission cooling problems for a while. Can someone please give me a link or pictures if this 4 port cooler that was talked about? In the pictures above, i have that exact cooler that has engine coolant flow through it. I'm wanting to cool my CVT oil, and if that 4 port cooler is a real thing, i need it

apologies, I see the links provided above, but no details when i click them. no pictures, compatibility, or anything

would increasing the amount of actual fluid in the CVT help with the overheating issue? more fluid to absorb the heat and take it away...instead of adding an extra cooler, why not just increase the amount of fluid?

with that said, so 3+ hours at 70-75 mph isn't good for the transmission? if that is the case, how good is the ('16) Rogue at doing road trips? If it (the Rogue) is supposed to be the 2016 family car of the year, an overheating transmission is not a good trait to have and in some ways undermines the family car aspect especially if it is going to be used as a road trip vehicle

K03sport wrote:would increasing the amount of actual fluid in the CVT help with the overheating issue? more fluid to absorb the heat and take it away...instead of adding an extra cooler, why not just increase the amount of fluid?

The transmission (and it's not limited to CVT) is designed to operate with a certain amount of fluid. While your thinking is correct - more fluid is able to cool better - the transmission itself is only designed to operate with the specified amount of fluid and adding too much can cause serious problems.

with that said, so 3+ hours at 70-75 mph isn't good for the transmission? if that is the case, how good is the ('16) Rogue at doing road trips? If it (the Rogue) is supposed to be the 2016 family car of the year, an overheating transmission is not a good trait to have and in some ways undermines the family car aspect especially if it is going to be used as a road trip vehicle

Many people drive their Rogue's on long road trips without issue. You have to look at the sheer number of Rogue's being sold and measure it against the few complaints you read about. The number one enemy of any transmission is heat.

TrevorK wrote:The transmission (and it's not limited to CVT) is designed to operate with a certain amount of fluid. While your thinking is correct - more fluid is able to cool better - the transmission itself is only designed to operate with the specified amount of fluid and adding too much can cause serious problems...Many people drive their Rogue's on long road trips without issue. You have to look at the sheer number of Rogue's being sold and measure it against the few complaints you read about. The number one enemy of any transmission is heat.

agree on all points. the idea behind adding more fluid was not to just add more fluid, as an overfill condition will cause more problems, but more from a revise the trans-pan to be able to hold more fluid while keeping it at the level specified by the engineers. I suppose by adding the aux external cooler, not are you adding extra cooling capacity with the radiator, but you are adding more fluid that has to fill the lines and the radiator too; so two things to aid in cooling the trans fluid

JTX54 - hopefully you're still part of the forums as I have a question about the cooler block.

You mentioned that there are 4 ports, also seen in your picture.

1 in for radiator coolent
1 out for radiator coolent
1 in for transmission oil
1 out for transmission oil

Here's the part I can't figure out.

The in/out for the radiator coolent will hook back on to the new cooler block (same hoses same ports)

Where are the transmission oil lines on the Rogue? There must be 1 in and 1 out on the transmission but I can't seem to locate them.

My CVT is overheating and has gone into limp mode many times. It is 100% unreliable for highway driving. The dealer said no codes have showed up and they cannot replicate the problem on their 20 minute drives, so they can't do anything.

They want $2000 Canadian for the parts (kit) + labor + fluids. I think that's ridiculous and hoping you can help.

Looping back. I let the service manager take my car overnight. While it did not go into limp mode, he could hear the whining of the transmission. Today is July 20 2016, car will go in on July 24 for a brand new tranny.

I asked about the TSB for the tranny cooler - NTB14002. It was very quickly shut down.

Me: Hey Nissan Canada asked me to have you pull up the bulletin.
Dealer: Why and what for, you're getting a new tranny
Me: because it's only half the problem. If you don't cool the tranny oil, it will happen again, it is inevitable.
Dealer: We don't have time to pull up bulletins, come back in on Monday for your tranny install. No courtesy car so rent one or we can only pick up and drop off.

^ obviously customer service is lacking. So I'm back to how you installed the 4 port cooler block and the hose routing to/from the transmission.

Below copied from somewhere else:

NTB14002

IF YOU CONFIRM: The maximum vehicle speed is, or was, reduced by the CVT fail-safe logic after continuous operation under the following conditions: - High RPM and/or high speed driving (RPM of 4000+ or speeds of 65 mph [104.6 km/h] for 1.0 - 1.5 hrs.or more) - Driving in ambient temperature of 96 degrees or higher - Climbing steep or extended hills for 6 miles (9.6 km) or more - Whine or rattle type noise occurring during reduced ‪engine‬ performance (vehicle speed decrease) NOTE: Before applying this bulletin, check and repair any DTCs first. ACTION: Install SERVICE KIT-COOLER ASSY (see PARTS INFORMATION). NOTE: This kit is on part restriction. Use the order form at the end of this bulletin. See this bulletin for further detail.

Lostinspace1 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:16 pm

JTX54 - hopefully you're still part of the forums as I have a question about the cooler block.

You mentioned that there are 4 ports, also seen in your picture.

1 in for radiator coolent
1 out for radiator coolent
1 in for transmission oil
1 out for transmission oil

Here's the part I can't figure out.

The in/out for the radiator coolent will hook back on to the new cooler block (same hoses same ports)

Where are the transmission oil lines on the Rogue? There must be 1 in and 1 out on the transmission but I can't seem to locate them.

My CVT is overheating and has gone into limp mode many times. It is 100% unreliable for highway driving. The dealer said no codes have showed up and they cannot replicate the problem on their 20 minute drives, so they can't do anything.

They want $2000 Canadian for the parts (kit) + labor + fluids. I think that's ridiculous and hoping you can help.

Lostinspace1 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:16 pm

Where are the transmission oil lines on the Rogue? There must be 1 in and 1 out on the transmission but I can't seem to locate them.

Most Rogue trims do not have this 4-port oil cooler. I suspect you only have the regular 2-port (coolant only) You will need this part # 21606-1XF0A and swap it out so you can install an external oil cooler (coolant and transmission oil).

Yes I have the 2 port. The 4 port is easy to install but where are the tranny oil lines to tap into? That's what I cannot figure out.

Thanks.

kots1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 20, 2017 12:43 pm

Lostinspace1 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:16 pm

Where are the transmission oil lines on the Rogue? There must be 1 in and 1 out on the transmission but I can't seem to locate them.

Most Rogue trims do not have this 4-port oil cooler. I suspect you only have the regular 2-port (coolant only) You will need this part # 21606-1XF0A and swap it out so you can install an external oil cooler (coolant and transmission oil).

Lostinspace1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:01 pm

Yes I have the 2 port. The 4 port is easy to install but where are the tranny oil lines to tap into? That's what I cannot figure out.

Thanks.

kots1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 20, 2017 12:43 pm

Most Rogue trims do not have this 4-port oil cooler. I suspect you only have the regular 2-port (coolant only) You will need this part # 21606-1XF0A and swap it out so you can install an external oil cooler (coolant and transmission oil).

Normally tranny oil flows within the "beehive" (oil cooler) in a 2-port configuration while using coolant to warm up or cool down the tranny oil within the beehive. The 4-port has 2 extra holes to let the tranny oil flow out the extra 2 tubes. So coolant still acts as a warm up/cool down in 4-port configuration but with 2 extra lines where tranny oil now goes out of the tube instead of within the beehive. No need to tap to anything. Swapping the 2-port with a 4-port is what you need and an external radiator to mate your 2 extra tubes.

Before I read this final post, I kept thinking about it and came to the conclusion there are no external lines. The 2 extra ports would allow it to flow.

Is there a specific port for in and a port for out or they can either port be use interchangably for tranny oil?

The coolent lines will hook back directly to the same 2 ports so I'm not worried about that.

THANK YOU SO MUCH for replying! This has bugged me for days and while I like tinkering I'm no master mechanic.

kots1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:39 pm

Lostinspace1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:01 pm

Yes I have the 2 port. The 4 port is easy to install but where are the tranny oil lines to tap into? That's what I cannot figure out.

Thanks.

Normally tranny oil flows within the "beehive" (oil cooler) in a 2-port configuration while using coolant to warm up or cool down the tranny oil within the beehive. The 4-port has 2 extra holes to let the tranny oil flow out the extra 2 tubes. So coolant still acts as a warm up/cool down in 4-port configuration but with 2 extra lines where tranny oil now goes out of the tube instead of within the beehive. No need to tap to anything. Swapping the 2-port with a 4-port is what you need and an external radiator to mate your 2 extra tubes.

Lostinspace1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:59 pm

Before I read this final post, I kept thinking about it and came to the conclusion there are no external lines. The 2 extra ports would allow it to flow.

Is there a specific port for in and a port for out or they can either port be use interchangably for tranny oil?

The coolent lines will hook back directly to the same 2 ports so I'm not worried about that.

THANK YOU SO MUCH for replying! This has bugged me for days and while I like tinkering I'm no master mechanic.

I can't remember which one is in/out. I got the oil cooler kit which is part # B1606-JM01A. I would recommend getting this kit for about $500. It's well worth it since the brackets and hoses are exact fit. The lengths of hoses goes only one way so there is no guess work which port it goes to. They are also pre-bended so you won't have to worry about making sure hoses are not touching the frame or rubbing causing any distress to it. It's designed to be exact fit. The 4-port beehive is about $200+ already, about $100 for an aftermarket radiator, brackets, hoses, etc. You are only saving no more than $200 and plus time wasted trying to make things fit. I would recommend going with the OEM kit to save you time and headache. It's a small price to pay to ensure longevity of our CVT.

I even considered buying an aftermarket oil cooler like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272757551589

This guy fabricated a cheaper alternative and explained it really well on how to install and how it works. It's worth the read. But now thinking about it, I think the $500 I spent for the OEM kit is well worth it and it's been flawless for more than 2 years now.

Here are some tips from my previous post:

kots1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 25, 2015 10:10 pm

Just some tips on the install that I wished I knew.
1) take out air intake - remove 3 screws, wiggle out the top air intake
2) pull the cylindrical air intake coming from the fender area
2) take out bumper - 4+ push pins on top, 4+ push pins on bottom, 2 x T20 torx and 2 x 10 mm (not exactly sure on the size) on each side.
3) take out battery
4) take out battery tray - the bolts was on tight and not enough room for a breaker bar. I used an impact wrench (used for removing tire lug nuts).
5) take out four bolts from the oem cooler. the bottom right would be the hardest to take out because of the tight space. I would start with this one first so you can quickly remove the remaining bolts w/o loosing too much fluid. Bottom right bolt can be accessed from the fender area side. I cannot find any torque spec for these 4 oil cooler bolts so just feel it and snug - not too tight since it wasn't tight in the first place when I unscrewed it.

according to the ebay description, you might need to unplug the coolant lines to give some slack and insert that plate in between. I went with the OEM Rogue Cooler kit so I cannot tell exactly the procedure for this alternative solution.

When you route two new hoses to the front radiator, make sure they don't rub anything from the vibration. You'll wear out and damage the hose eventually from constant vibration.

There are some bolt holes underneath the bottom bumper for the bracket. Just remove the covering at the bottom. I didn't notice this until I looked hard enough.

Lastly, I was only short half quart CVT fluid after this install. I lost some coolant fluid which I refilled with tap water in the reservoir (or distilled water if your tap water is too hard with minerals).

Kots1 - If you're ever in Toronto Canada, drop me a PM. I'm going to buy you a few beers for your help. Even giving your thoughts on OEM vs aftermarket made it much easier to make a final decision. Your explanations were extremely helpful, I really appreciated it.

Thanks again!

Lostinspace1 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 21, 2017 8:09 am

Kots1 - If you're ever in Toronto Canada, drop me a PM. I'm going to buy you a few beers for your help. Even giving your thoughts on OEM vs aftermarket made it much easier to make a final decision. Your explanations were extremely helpful, I really appreciated it.

Thanks again!

You are welcome. I am glad to be of help. I don't have any nearby travel plans to Toronto yet but thanks for the beer offer. If you are local here in Southern California, I'd be happy to help.

I just recently did a transmission oil flush and it's easier to do this with the 4-port beehive rather than the drain plug method. Just take out your bumper, unplug the lower radiator hose and use a spare hose on the radiator port side and point it down to a bucket. Start your engine to pump out old oil until it sputters, shut off then pour new oil to the dipstick port and repeat the process about 3x to almost completely swap out all old oil with your new oil. I also tried both Valvoline CVT and Castrol CVT with no issues. No need to use OEM fluid with our CVT. I am at 134,000+ miles and still going strong on my 2008 Nissan Rogue 2WD. Just be sure to change your transmission oil at least every 30k miles. Nissan dealer replaced my tranny at 68k miles.

Hi Folks,

New to the forum and want to thank everyone for all the great information about the CVT and how to prolong the life. Short story, on a rebuilt CVT at 111,000 miles, came from a car with supposedly 36,000 miles. After about 13,000 'new miles' I started to get the dreaded whine again. Figured it was time for a new approach before the second transmission became toast and I ended up back in limp mode etc....

I checked everything out here and a few other spots and decided a cooler was the way to go. Didn't want to spend a ton of money given the mileage on the Rogue so I opted for the eBay adapter plate and the Hayden cooler. So far so good, the whine is gone and it's been pretty warm here in NY these days, I'll remain hopeful that this has done the trick.

The install was pretty straightforward. Just removing a lot of parts to gain access to the existing unit and making room to get the part off and to slip in the adapter plate. You need to remove the front of the wheel liner on the driver side, enough to fold it back to see the unit from the wheel well. Remove the battery tray and the intake components back to the air filter box. Removing this will give you a very clean view of the existing unit and plenty of room to slip in the new adapter plate once the existing unit is unbolted. You do not have to remove the cooling lines that run to the unit to get the adapter in if you do this and work from the top. It moves back far enough to get the adapter in.

Removing the grill is pretty simple and there are some videos out there to show you how. The only thing I'll add is that there are two different clips at the very upper right and left. To get them out use a flathead screwdriver from behind them and push the tab out through the painted piece that they clip through. Once you get it all loose and can peek back there you'll see what I mean (I hope).

Have a 1/2 quart of CVT fluid to add to compensate for the lost fluid when the existing unit is unbolted and to fill the new cooler.

I have to say that I am very happy with the results and the savings. I have postd a few pictures to show what your dealing with when removing parts to access the unit to install the adapter.

This is the view through the wheel well, once the fender liner is pulled back.
https://goo.gl/photos/aDC9Y2PN3kTgbw6o8

This the view of the grill out and the batter tray and other components out.
https://goo.gl/photos/C2mj3o1RAga2Zfcc8

View looking down to the unit, where the battery tray would be. Note that box at the front. That was attached to the battery tray and seems to be one of the cars computers. There is another at the back of the battery tray that you unplug and leave attached to the tray. The plug has a large 'throw bar' that you release to get the plug off the box.
https://goo.gl/photos/xJXJ3wnLyEChLfUSA

The Hayden cooler installed. It bolts up to the existing upright part that is already there on the car. Two bolts hold it in place very well. Note that the upper hose goes to the lower barb on the adapter plate and the lower cooler hose goes to the upper barb.
https://goo.gl/photos/SJKdvxBY58pmXCf9A

This image shows the adapter plate installed with the hoses attached running up to the cooler. A few notes on tightening bolts and the barbs in the adapter plate. Don't go crazy, tight enough is good enough, I didn't over do any of them based on the feel from removing the originals.
https://goo.gl/photos/55J83UJ7bvXJLug98

Once again, thank you to everyone here for the great community.

@rowlands57 thanks for sharing. Your install looks good using the aftermarket adapter plate. How was the fit? What came with the kit? Did you have to buy the bracket to mount the radiator and extra rubber hoses?

kots1 wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:03 pm

@rowlands57 thanks for sharing. Your install looks good using the aftermarket adapter plate. How was the fit? What came with the kit? Did you have to buy the bracket to mount the radiator and extra rubber hoses?

Hi. Glad the information may be helpful and to answer your questions:

The fit is perfect. That is a very well made piece and it comes with all the needed o-rings already in place, two barbs that attach to it and the longer bolts that you will need to attach it along with the existing unit.

The cooler itself is the Hayden Model 678 and I also purchased the Hayden Model 106 extra hose. The 678 comes with one length of hose and all the necessary hose clamps. However, I figured that I'd need more hose and it turned out that I did so the extra one is needed. This is due to the routing to the barbs on the adapter plate being pretty high up on the transmission and the need to have enough slack in the hoses to avoid unnecessary rubbing.

For the bracket I just used the existing upright that has the hood release and the outside temperature monitor on it. It has plenty of holes and two of them line up perfectly with the holes on the new cooler. I did have to relocate the temperature sensor but that was not a big deal at all, I just zip-tied it to the upright when I was done. To bolt the cooler to the upright I used some bolts I had in the garage, but I would recommend using the 'locking nuts' (the ones with plastic inside them) just to be sure nothing vibrates loose. If you look to the left of the picture of the cooler you should see how it's done.

Good luck if you do proceed with the install, I really believe this will extend the life of this vehicle for quite some time. For the investment of about $225 all in I think it's worth it.

@rowlands57: Thanks for those info. I considered going this route but opted with the OEM kit since I do not have enough info on the extra parts needed back then. This will be useful for others going this route and save a lot of $$$ without compromising quality.

Now, that you have the new setup, I would recommend that you flush your old fluid since the additives may have been exhausted by running it above the ideal temp prior to your conversion. Flushing the old transmission oil should be easier now through the hoses.

kots1 wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:11 am

@rowlands57: Thanks for those info. I considered going this route but opted with the OEM kit since I do not have enough info on the extra parts needed back then. This will be useful for others going this route and save a lot of $$$ without compromising quality.

Now, that you have the new setup, I would recommend that you flush your old fluid since the additives may have been exhausted by running it above the ideal temp prior to your conversion. Flushing the old transmission oil should be easier now through the hoses.

Thanks for that advice and I'll add that project to the list.

After reading all of these re-views I am wondering if engine coolant from the radiator line is penetrating into the CVT fluid thru the CVT Cooler causing a cross-contamination in damaging the CVT pump seals hence making the whining noise & over heating experienced by most drivers?
Re-installing the existing (or new 4 port) Cooler mite be best to avoid re-hooking up the engine radiator lines and plugging the top 2 Cooler ports indefinately ...
Also a complete CVT flush and replacement of CVT fluid and further circulating to an added mini-rad may result in optimal CVT fluid cooling & a longer CVT operational life...

Hi all,
I have Nissan Sentra 2013 bought second hand. I read all review above,
I have oil leakage in "4 port cooler" unit from 1 down facing pipe, about 1 drop per night, I collected the oil for 3 days and it is reddish in color.
Only 2 smaller pipes are connected to Hayden cooler from "4 port cooler" unit in my car remaining 2 pipes are open. Right now I capped the lower pipe with small hose and bolt. I guess this leak is due to an internal crack in 4 port cooler itself as mentioned by Mr.. Will.
What is the further suggestions for this leakage issue is it necessary to replace the "4 port cooler" or leave it as it is, I ran around 2000km after I bought the car, and no any issues are noticed. I believe this "4 port cooler" is no use in my car as only 2 ports are in use.

I have a small curiosity about this cooler, if you have time plz reply, as this cooler has 4 pipes, I believe 2 bigger pipes for coolant and smaller pipes for CVT cooler and two more holes in the rear of the cooler which I saw in photos is attached to the engine with O ring. All these have separate routes for different liquids to flow so what are those liquids, I understand it like this below:
1 big pipe for coolant inlet.
1 big pipe for coolant outlet.
1 small pipe for CVT fluid inlet from Hayden cooler.
1 small pipe for CVT fluid return from Hayden cooler.
2 holes at the rear of the "4 port cooer" is also CVT fluid in and out going to Hayden cooler.

If this is true then My one with leakage can be fixed by looping 2 open pipes with some strong pipes to sustain oil pressure that will be built in the future.
Plz, see the photos of leakage pipe before and after cap, oil color, and one unknown oil dipstick above the cooler unit.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s20usm98ko6q ... FUkOa?dl=0

Thanks and regards.