Coolant

[TwoFortyCoupe]

Hey guys,
As I said in a pervious post my car is overheating. Was going to replace the thermostat but I wanna get coolant first. So, what coolant should I get?

[mixeds14]

Antifreeze

[TwoFortyCoupe]

Stupid question isn't antifreeze and coolant the same thing?

[allenms240]

Yes it is the same.

You have two options. You can get full concentrated antifreeze and dilute it yourself with distilled water (tap water will cause contamination in the motor, but it's up to you), or you can get 50/50 pre-mixed solution and run with that. I use prestone, but I don't think the brand matters. I would just get anything but the autozone brand.

[asoomal]

Waterless coolant would be the best way to go, it's gonna be expensive and a PITA to get rid of all the water in the system.

BTW, I'm not talking about pouring in 100% ethylene glycol.

I just stick with Prestone, 70/30 A/F to water ratio with a bottle of corrosion inhibitor and coolant system booster.

[TwoFortyCoupe]

Ok personally I've had so many problems with my car I'm just going to do 50/50 distalled water and Prestone coolent because right now I'm running a 3 or 4 inch thick huge radiator with fresh coolant hoses and royal purple coolant added with new coolant there is purple color in the radiator and the coolant was clear red so I'm assuming it's newish coolant with royal purple and a cooling plate too. My car is overheating and I dont know why?

[OutToWinPAHC]

Green

Full strength

Distilled water

Redline water wetter

And a proper bleeding funnel

60-70% water / 40-30% coolant, 1 bottle water wetter, burp, bleed, enjoy unless you live in an area that is constantly around 10 degrees or below in the winter.... Then 50/50 mix

[speedeast]

Does it overheat at specific times? For example, does it overheat when sitting still and cool off a little when you get to driving along?

The bleeding process could potentially take 45 mins to an hour. Did you bleed it properly?

1 out of 5 new thermostats doesn't operate properly. I always put mine in a pot before I install to make sure they open up. But air in the system is the most common and overlooked cause of overheating. Incompatible/old coolant is the next most common.

[OutToWinPAHC]

yes always test them.... I also always snip the jiggle thing out and drill it out about .25 inches

[TwoFortyCoupe]

It did it once I was just driving normally and then stream is pourin out of the hood the coolant is dripping on the ground and a loud peeping is occurring the coant overflow thingy is spilling coolant.

[TwoFortyCoupe]

I haven't driving it since then

[Cgeigert]

Whatever you do don't get the orange colored kind. Makes it look rusty and stains more.

[speedeast]

That sounds like a thermostat. If the thermostat doesn't open, the coolant on the hot side heats up quickly and significantly and expands back through the system and you'll often get boiling in the reservoir or overflowing.

1500th post, woot woot!

[speedeast]

I was re-reading this and found some discrepancy.

Your coolant mixture should always be AT LEAST 50% antifreeze. The remainder is distilled water.

In warmer climates, 50/50 is fine, and it's more cost effective. If you're in temperatures that could get as low as -30 degrees intermittently, you should consider using up to 70% antifreeze.

[alms24sebring]

I was ganna say your location is FL. Just keep it simple and use 50/50 premixed green, and yes NOT the orange-yellow universal stuff or Dexcool. Replace thermo, bleed right, and your good.

[TwoFortyCoupe]

Thanks alms that's what I just did so I'll start it up thursday and see what happenes

[OutToWinPAHC]

I was re-reading this and found some discrepancy.

Your coolant mixture should always be AT LEAST 50% antifreeze. The remainder is distilled water.

In warmer climates, 50/50 is fine, and it's more cost effective. If you're in temperatures that could get as low as -30 degrees intermittently, you should consider using up to 70% antifreeze.

Depend where your from.... Anti-Freeze is good for what it says plus rust protection, but it it hinders cooling. Nothing cools better than water under pressure with no air. I do 60/40 in Pa which by specs provided by peak protect to about -10F (which for my garage kept cars is fine) Now if you live down florida where it may hit 40 once ever 5 years I would run a ration of about 25/75. I always use a surface tension breaker aka water wetter, or similar.

[speedeast]

I understand where you're coming from. They recommend at least 50/50 because of the boiling point of water. If it gets to that point the engine will develop pockets of steam that can lead to catastrophic failure. 50/50 mix only protects to 256 F. Anything less than that and the boiling point goes down until a 0/100 mixture which has a boiling point of 212 F. Most engines see temperatures above 100 C, which is 212 F. Unless it's real cold or real hot, the ambient temperature isn't a huge factor. If you're taking provisions to make everything straight, that's cool, the average enthusiast won't.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Boiling point of water is indeed 212F, but not under pressure the .9, 1.1, 1.3 or 1.5 bar caps play a pivotal roll of a air bled systems. OEM caps are .9 over atmospheric aka about 1.9 true bar pressure relative to zero so the boiling point is actually 246F with a .9 bar cap

[OutToWinPAHC]

In agreement unless you understand the mathematical properties and have a need for it you should run 50/50. Never mix coolants, never convert coolants on used motors, always use a known good t-stat and cap, always bleed.

[alms24sebring]

If I remember correctly there is a reason to never go below 30% coolant or more than 70% coolant. Purer coolant doesnt transfer heat as effectively. It is also corrosive to internal parts. Obviously purer water boils at a lower temp but also may not absorb heat as effectively. Together they work well with high temps and heat transfer.

PAHC I assume the second graph is for a 50/50 mix. This is a quick idea I drew up of the mixtures (peek should be close to 50/50 I guess), at normal 1.9 bar

[speedeast]

Agreed.