Coolant System - Is there a need to bleed?

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OwnerCS
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Last summer I talked to a guy with a Y33 who had changed his own thermostat without bleeding the cooling system. He said an air bubble in the system caused a head gasket to blow soon after he changed the thermostat.. Yikes! :ohno:

Before the Q, the last water pump and thermostat that I changed was on the engine in the picture below -- as it has been a while. In those days I remember keeping the radiator cap off long enough to see water flow through the system when the thermostat opened. So any air in the system would be allowed to bubble up and out before closing the cap to allow it to build up pressure.

I didn't see any bleeding requirements in the cooling section of the FSM. I've seen posts for other Nissans about parking on a hill or raising the front of the car.

Any tips on bleeding the G50 cooling system? Is it necessary?

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tfvesquire
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The answer is, yes. Anytime you have a "closed" coolant system which is on almost all liquid cooled vehicles, you need to bleed the air out because air heats up faster than liquid and this will lead to air pockets and overheating. Too bad for the guy who blew his head gasket. :( I also own an old Vette with a SBC and I remember having a tough time chasing air pockets in the system and trying to eliminate them. On my Vette, there is no overflow catch can to "refill" the system, so if you get an air pocket which caused the car to overheat and burb out fluid, you were screwed unless you had some extra coolant in the trunk.

On today's cars, even though we have the overflow tank, there is no way for the air to get out and the coolant on the reservior tank to get into the system unless you bleed off the air. when the system is finctioning properly, when the system gets hot, the radiator cap has pressurized spring that will relieve the system and allow the pressurized coolant to go into the overflow tank. then, when the system cools down, the system allows the fluid to return to the system once again. If there is air in the system, you will be applying more heat and pressure to the system than it was designed to handle and over time, it will blow through the weakest points, ie: gasket or thin spot in a hose. They make a special tool that looks like a radiator cap, but is designed to help you bleed the system. Anyone who has ever tried to bleed air out of a 2.2 4 cylinder Cavalier engine knows what I am talking about. I just changed my fluid this past weekend and bleeding the system was a breeze. Just fill the system at the radiator cap closest to the engine, not the one on the radiator itself (and don't fill the reservior up yet) and turn your heat on full blast to open up the heater core, then start the car and carefully watch the fluid level as bubbles come out. Top off as needed until the system starts to heat up, but don't shut the car off until you put the cap back on. Then, add a mixture of coolant and distilled water (50% mix) to the overfloow tank. The reason I said not to top off the coolant reservior first, is that if you do, the fluid will flow backwards into the system and instead of bleeding air out, the fluid level will rise and overflow the cap opening, causing you to get sprayed in the face with hot coolant while the engine is running. Not fun and a pain to clean upyour engine bay and fenders.

Hope that answers your question and gives you some info for future repairs.

OwnerCS
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Thanks for the information. That is basically the approach I learned way back when.. Though I completely forgot about the heater core.

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elwesso
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Ive found that the VH engine is not very picky with air in the system... IE bubbles dont really get caught in the system very easily, in my experience..

All I do is top off the overflow tank, and fill up the filler neck (like tv said, not the one on the radiator). From there, turn the car on and turn the heat on all the way. However, if its too warm the heater core wont open up all the way even with the heat set at 85.

so, to open the core all the way do the following procedure.
1. within 5 seconds of starting the car, press and hold the OFF button on the climate control
2. All the lights on the controller will come on, and after that happens press the WARMER button until you see 40 on the screen. It will go up by 10s, and i believe you will press it twice..
3. Once 40 is displayed, press the defrost button 3 times, so it displays 43. it will open the heat up all the way.

From there, I let car idle for 15 mins or so and make sure its nice and warm, then shut it off, open the filler neck and top it off. From there, I usually check it the following couple times I drive it.

BTW the G50s overflow tank is not pressurized like most cars...

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Q451990
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Ditto on what Wes said. If you have air in your system, you'll hear a gurgle in your heater core at idle. I usually fill mine up and then after it cools down overnight open the filler neck and top it off a bit. I have never heard of trapped air bubbles causing overheating on the VH. The newer engines apparently are not so forgiving.

Heath

OwnerCS
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Thanks guys for all the information. I worked on it till 4:00 AM this morning.. You know I'm really getting anxious.. Well off the the garage again..

Cheers!
Craig

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Q451990
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Can't wait to hear about your first spirited drive! Didn't you say you never had it above 4000RPMs due to chain guide fears?

Heath

OwnerCS
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Q451990 wrote:Can't wait to hear about your first spirited drive! Didn't you say you never had it above 4000RPMs due to chain guide fears?

Heath
I've never had it above 3,000 RPM as I knew about the guides before I brought it home the first day.. I don't think the previous owner ever got it over 3,000 RPM on those road trips to TX and LA.

Did you ever see the pictures of the old guides?

When I took the chain cover off I thought -- this motor is "just a baby" and I'm going all out on this one..

I've got a 94 TCU and Wes is cooking up an ECU for me so that will make letting it loose even more fun.. :naughty:

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Q451990
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I did see the pictures... it's amazing how some engines can eat guides at a low mileage - while others last and last. Back in 1999 I saw a Q with holes in the head with only 77K miles from a guide failure.

Heath


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