Coolant filter

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Infinitiguy19
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I am going to be flushing the coolant system tommorow and I got 12 gallons of distilled water and 2 gallons of Super Tech Antifreeze (Peak makes the stuff ). Too bad its not a OAT coolant (Non silicate) but I will flush every year....

I was wondering would it be worth installing a coolant filter such as this: http://autocoolantfilter.com/ after seeing this:

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Thanks to Unknown007 (Berner)

Its a shame a Magnefine like filter won't work because it does filter down to 3 microns!


qship96
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That is the most abused cooling system I have ever seen.

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elwesso
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yeah thats pretty nasty... It probably never saw a fresh drop of coolant in its life...

Honestly the anode type things work best for water related things. the 2 metal pipes are designed such that they take most of the corrosion, and not the rest of the system... See what kind of condition those are in, maybe toss them in some lime-away or CLR while you're at it..

I know a while ago, I used this stuff made by Zerex that was called cooling system flush, i think it worked pretty well...

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Lokim
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I believe the yellow solids are a result of hydrocarbons reacting with the ethylene glycol in the coolant. After you get the system thoroughly flushed, bring it in to a shop w/ an exhaust gas analyzer and have them sniff the filler neck with the car running. Start w/ the car cold, and sniff it through the entire warmup, and if you detect any HC's, prepare to do the head gaskets. :ohno:

qship96
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Those pictures are from subgenius Berners {007unknown} car, which has been permanently retired due to abuse, neglect, and stupidity.

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Lokim
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qship96 wrote:Those pictures are from subgenius Berners {007unknown} car, which has been permanently retired due to abuse, neglect, and stupidity.
Told ya so. :yesnod

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goody90q45
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qship96 wrote:.....which has been permanently retired due to abuse, neglect, and stupidity.
It's now a cubic yard of metal on a slow boat to a steel mill in China.

Q45tech
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Be sure to replace the METAL [anodized] ANODE PIPE that ties the two return rad hoses together. When you do you will see why.

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AZhitman
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A filter in a cooling system is a dumb idea. What happens when it clogs? And what are you trying to protect?

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elwesso
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In all fairness, in most boats there is a filter (well a screen) that filters the raw water coming into the engine.. Its always easier to clean a screen in an easy to access place than clean out an oil cooler (I've done both)...

anyway, for an automotive application, all you have to do is drain/refill your radiator every year... a Q wont event take a full gallon of pre-mix 50/50 ATF, which costs about $10 at the autoparts stores... When I was really OCD with my Q, I would drain the rad in the spring, replace with only distilled water for about a 70/30 water/coolant mix... then in the fall I would drain that and replace with only antifreeze for about 50/50 mix...

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Who takes your used coolant?

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AZhitman
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elwesso wrote:In all fairness, in most boats there is a filter (well a screen) that filters the raw water coming into the engine..
Because lake water is full of leaves and fishes and twigs and frogs and seaweed and sticks and feathers and canoeists.

There's a 99% chance you'll never get those in your radiator.

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AZhitman
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oldmako wrote:Who takes your used coolant?

Small quantities can be flushed, a bit at a time (antifreeze is biodegradable) if you are on a municipal system.

If you have a septic tank, don't flush it. It'll jack up your system.

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elwesso
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I usually just let it run on my driveway and it evaporates... just keep the dogs away... :)

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Infinitiguy19
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All good points and I was really hoping Berner wouldn't be bashed. I did find another filter that looks easier to work with: http://www.tefba.com/.

I was just wondering because I have heard many hot rod and muscle car guys use this setup but there engines are mostly cast iron (if it makes a difference?).

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AZhitman
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Like I said before:
AZhitman wrote:A filter in a cooling system is a dumb idea. What happens when it clogs? And what are you trying to protect?
If you have particulates in your cooling system, you've already failed, and a filter won't help you.

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AZhitman
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http://www.tefba.com wrote:
A large percentage of the overheating problems that many classic and performance car and truck drivers face are directly related to the radiator. Over time it tends to get clogged by debris, condensates and "gunk." One simple way to help prevent the restrications due to this clogging is to install an automotive coolant system filter.
:rotfl

Let me fix that:

"A large percentage of the overheating problems that many drivers face are directly related to laziness, idiocy, and failure to maintain their vehicle. Over time it tends to get clogged by debris, condensates and "gunk." One simple way to help prevent the restrications (WTF is a "restrication"?) due to this clogging is to shoot yourself. Or take the bus."

FTFY :bigthumb:

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Infinitiguy19
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Point taken I was just worried about the cooling jackets on the cylinder heads and block. I wouldn't want those to corrode or get clogged up.

But as Maxnix (Brian) says "If in doubt of fluid and filter history replace them all."

Plus a power steering filter has smaller holes which would trap smaller particles making for a better filter if checked every week. Rather than the filters shown in the links, I suppose they are like a Auto-RX, Restore, Z-Max....type product.

ShortSeason
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http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?Pag ... ProdID=324

You set it up as a bypass filter. I clogs no big deal.


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