Post by
zer0c123 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/zer0c123-u10125.html
Sat Mar 21, 2009 7:57 pm
During the winter break I installed a new koyo radiator, oem water pump, oem thermostat, and a circuit sports overflow tank (weird fitment). I just could not get the air out of the system in time, and kept running into over heating issues. Therefore I had to put it on hold for 2 months until spring break. So today I decided to give it another shot. The system was filled up with a 50/50 mix through the radiator until coolant flowed out of the bleeder valve.
Today, I left the radiator cap off and I started the car with the heater on. About 15 min later coolant gushed out of the radiator. I immediately turned off the car.
This time I closed the radiator cap, and open the bleeder valve. I started the car with heater on full for about 40 min, while periodically revving the engine. Small amounts of coolant popped out of the bleeder valve during the 40 min. Also the heater reading stayed slightly below the middle the whole time. I then immediately took the car for a test drive.
I pulled out of my driveway onto to the block driving up hill. After about a minute, the temperature reading started to rise to H. I turned around and headed back to my garage. I waited for about 5-10 minutes until I looked under the hood. I noticed that one of the nuts on the CS tank was not tightened all the way and was leaking slightly. I could see the threads and white teflon. As I was tightening the nut, I could hear some gurgling sounds and then I saw the coolant level in the reservoir go down pretty fast.
Tomorrow I'm going put my car on ramps and try to get the air out of the system. I've seen so many different post regarding coolant bleeding methods, and I've read the guide in the article section. It's either leave the air bleeder valve closed or open, or leave radiator cap closed or open with engine on.