Converting Halogen Headlamps to HID

[kmiles]

I've been through all of the threads and posts on lighting and can't find the exact answer that I'm looking for. I bought my 2007 M35x used three years ago and everything stated that I have HID headlamps. I've been upgrading some of my lights to LED, including VLED Tritons for the front and read turn signals, VLED backup, license plate and front parking lights. I purchased the Morimoto DS2 5k HID bulbs and went to install them last night and after pulling off the covers realized that I don't have HID headlights, but the H1 Halogen bulbs. For those of you who have converted, the questions that I have, that I can't find exact answers to are:

- If I want to convert my lights to HID, do I purchase an H1 kit or a DS2 kit?

- Do the 5k Morimotos produce too much heat for the low beam headlamp housing and could they cause the plastic to melt? If they do, should I go to 4.3k?

- What size ballasts should I purchase if I want the best performance and the longest life out of the HID lights?

- I know that I will need to modify the wiring and that I will need to put a hole in the plastic cover on the back of the headlamp fixture. Do I need any special wires or connectors in order to do the best installation possible?

- If you don't recommend moving to HID, what is the best H1 bulb out there giving the whitest light possible?

Thanks!

[Larz]

Depending on how much modification you are planning, remember this: Halogen bulbs disperse light differently than do Xenon bulbs size D2S (HID). The housing frame that the bulb sticks out of needs to be designed to reflect light to match the type and pattern of the bulb in it. If you stick HID bulbs inside the factory halogen bulb surrounds, even with ballasts - you will NOT get HID light patterns, just a different color light on the road surface. Your HIDs will be reflecting off the surrounds with a design made for halogens and therefor the HIDs will not be focused or reflected properly and that can cause trouble for oncoming drivers as well as yourself because you will lose the distance that your stock bulbs travel.
If you use an actual retro-fit designed [/i]to replace you factory bulb sockets, you should have no trouble.

Here is a video that probably makes more sense than what I just blathered:

http://youtu.be/-p9gQvzOLog

You asked about the best H1 bulbs. I would stick with a high-end brand like Phillips, etc and stay clear of the cheap Ebay bulbs from China. I would get the Phillips BlueVision Ultra H1's. I found a vid on You Tube:

http://youtu.be/QTlzF42n0VE
.

[audtatious]

HID in non-hid reflector headlights also create a whole lotta glare.

[finikM35]

I had halogen lights, switched to Morimoto 5K and had no problems. Light output is much better. Cutoff line is very sharp and at the right place.

[kmiles]

Thanks for the reply finikM35! Based on your success I decided to try doing this one. I purchased an H1 Morimoto Elite HID retrofit system – AMP Morimoto 5Five DSP Ballasts, Morimoto H1 XB35 5000k bulbs and an H1/H3 relay harness.

The installation yesterday took about 3 hours, I’m sure others can do it much faster, but since I hadn’t done something like this before, I took my time and did it right. The kit was very complete and the only thing I needed to add were some wire ties to secure all of the wiring. I also wanted to install it in a way that I could easily return to factory stock if it didn’t work out. The only vehicle modifications that I needed to make were to cut two 7/8” holes in the plastic covers for the low beams on the headlight housing. The bulbs include a rubber grommet to seal the hole and to get the wiring from the bulb to connect to the relay harness wiring.

I’m also always looking for a reason to buy a new tool. The one that I purchased for this project was a pair of Push Pin Pliers. They were only $8 and are great for removing all of the push pins in the fender wells.

The end results are great. My wife and I had to head out to a Saturday night church meeting and we were both amazed at what a difference the new lights make. The cutoff line is sharp and in exactly the right place as indicated by finikm35. The distance that the lights extend out in front is much better and it is interesting how well lit the road stripes are on the right hand side – it looked like the white lines had been painted yesterday they were so clear.

I think I’m done upgrading lights in this car and overall I’m very satisfied with the changes made. It looks like a new car now at night. I can’t thank those on this forum enough for their “how to’s” and suggestions. I’ve now installed the following lighting upgrades:

- Late November 2013 – installed the VLED 5K White Amber Switchback V3 Triton LED system and set them up as day time running lights, front turn signals and installed the dim control for when the headlights are on
- Early January 2013 – installed the VLED Amber V3 Triton LED system in the rear turn signals, VLED 5K White 15 LED High Power Bulbs in the backup lights, VLED 5K White 4 LED 2W High Power Bulbs in front as parking lights and the VLED FRS LED License Plate light bulbs
- Late January 2013 – installed the H1 Morimoto Elite HID retrofit system

All of the lights are a great match from a color perspective and because I didn’t do them all at once, I was able to see the incremental improvements in lighting as I added each type. I didn’t want a blue hue – just a pure brilliant white and now I have it with all of these.

[patmcd06]

Hi kmiles,

I'm about to do the Morimoto elite H1 install this week. Where did you find the directions for the install? Ive never done something like this before, but think I can pull it off. Did you have to solder any wires?

Thanks,

Pat

[Ilya]

Pat, please reference the FAQ thread for instructions.

As for anyone else reading this thread, please keep in mind that posts 2 and 3 (in terms of not installing HID lights in non-HID housings) doesn't apply to the 2006+ M as ALL M's have projector headlights. You will be fine installing ANY bulb in our headlight.

I myself have a 6k, 50w Morimoto H1 kit in mine.

[audtatious]

HID projector reflector bowls are usually wider than Halogen projectors. With more light they spread a wider beam.

[Ilya]

HID projector reflector bowls are usually wider than Halogen projectors. With more light they spread a wider beam.

This is true, however IMO, halogen projectors will still do the job just fine and limit the glare that most people complain about when installing HID bulbs in reflector style housings (ie Honda Civic ricers, etc.)

For example:

Installing HID's in M low beam? Cool. The projectors, although halogen, will have a decent enough cut off and not glare at upcoming drivers much more than standard HID projectors
Installing HID's in M high beam? GLLLLLLLLLARRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEE, lol

One can also improve the beam pattern by switching projector lenses (as I may do eventually since I need new lights anyway) to something like a ZKW Replica lense, etc...but that's overkill IMO for a low beam setup.

[kmiles]

Hi kmiles,

I'm about to do the Morimoto elite H1 install this week. Where did you find the directions for the install? Ive never done something like this before, but think I can pull it off. Did you have to solder any wires?

Thanks,

Pat

Hi Pat - I used the instructions on the TRS site. I purchased the bulbs, ballasts and the H1 harness from them. No need to solder anything. The thing that takes the longest is taking off the wheels, and taking out the front part of the wheel well liners and then taking out the air filter unit. I put the car on a couple of jack stands and then took my time. The only modification that I had to make was to cut the two wires that go through the grommet to connect the trigger wire connector (it connects to the two wire connectors connected to the right (driver's side bulb). I used a couple of inline 3M heat shrink butt connectors. I did not need to modify any other wires or connectors. For the battery connector, I just removed the right of the two bolts on the battery positive connector cable and put the harness connector on the bolt and tightened down nut. I also used the two grounds on top of the wheel wells to connect the ground wire on each side of the car. I tied everything down using wire ties to finish it off.

My one area of learning was placing the ballasts. I was one of the unlucky ones who purchased the new DSP ballasts that failed after about 30 days of use. I had found what I thought was the best place and very well concealed. That would have been fine if I didn't have to troubleshoot and replace a couple of them, so when I reinstalled them the 2nd time I put them in a location that protected them from water and made it easy to replace when they blow (basically on top of the wheel well near the ground points). My new ballasts seem to be much better and I haven't had one blow in about two months. I was very disappointed in the quality of the initial ballasts, but TRS was good about replacing them quickly.

I fully agree with IlayKol on how much better the lights are after making this change. The cutoff is sharp and I've never had anyone flash their high beams at me. My only wish was that they were as reliable as the VLEDS. The VLEDS have been rock solid with no problems.