danm that sucks so what would i have to do for the wiringlocoluna825 wrote:Ive gone to the junk yard and found some 240s there, ive taken the guts outa soem automatic doors and put them in my manual doors and just wirred it through tthe jam and into the fuse boxes. and it worked pretty good. I used my manual door panels and jsut stuck switches in them (came out pretty nice) but you got the panels, so your better off just takin the panels and guts of both doors and switchin them. wish i coulda done that but some animal broke the panels in pickapart trying to get to the speakers...
go i would go give ten dollars to a nissan teck if it was lollocoluna825 wrote:I think though a better way to have it stock. like it would be to run through a relay in the engine compartment and hooked up through the fuse box in the car. I know that there is empty slots for relays and fuses in the boxes but i dont know if there already wired in between. Becuase if that were the fact and you jsut stuck the fuses and relays in and just pluggin in the doors that would be really cool.
thhad be swweet let me nolocoluna825 wrote:yea now im curious im ognna go look tomorrow in the morning
Or you could have just gotten the entire wire harness from the door and plugged it in to the connector inside the cabin. The main harness in the car is already wired with all the correct wires. It is cheaper to make one harness to fit all cars then to make one for each option.locoluna825 wrote:Ive gone to the junk yard and found some 240s there, ive taken the guts outa soem automatic doors and put them in my manual doors and just wirred it through tthe jam and into the fuse boxes. and it worked pretty good. I used my manual door panels and jsut stuck switches in them (came out pretty nice) but you got the panels, so your better off just takin the panels and guts of both doors and switchin them. wish i coulda done that but some animal broke the panels in pickapart trying to get to the speakers...
could u take pics or give me a step by stepp that woulde be great at least the plug in and stuffspank044 wrote:
Or you could have just gotten the entire wire harness from the door and plugged it in to the connector inside the cabin. The main harness in the car is already wired with all the correct wires. It is cheaper to make one harness to fit all cars then to make one for each option.
The definition of valve float is as follows-urbanskiben wrote:for ur information u can get ur certifacation of master tech in 9 months with a tech school and with the chain links 4 to 5 links is more degrees than that way more and the links can be streched jus enough and the floating vaulves that is not wht a floating valve is that is when the vaulve is not closed all the way even in jus one area and can be cuased by about 6 things or so and i am dont with this imature callin me out expecially on this other persons forum if u want to do it call me out on my own
dude i dont even give a **** n e more an for the vaulve thin it i basicaly what i was geting at the vaulve is lagingspank044 wrote:zerothread?id=391498
To anyone new at this debate, above is the original thread where it started. Please read then contribute your input.
The definition of valve float is as follows-
Definition: A high-rpm engine condition in which the valve lifters lose contact with the cam lobes because the valve springs are not strong enough to overcome the momentum of the various valve train components. The onset of valve float prevents higher-rpm operation. Extended periods of valve float will damage the valve train.
Valve float is an adverse condition which occurs when the poppet valves on an internal combustion engine valvetrain do not remain in contact with the camshaft lobe during the valve closure phase of the cam lobe profile. This reduces engine efficiency and performance and potentially increases engine emissions.
There are two definitions from different places that are the true definition of valve float. Also if you don't believe that 4 links is only ten crankshaft degrees then you need to call up JWT and explain to them how big of a mistake they made with their adjustable cam gears. The second one is so you can make a set of adjustable cam gears to help you learn about cam and crank timing. I have a set on my 11 sec KA-T and I would love to meet up and run you at Martin sometime.
http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...S.PDF
zerothread?id=199829
Next if you read my last post you would see that I stated "approved education such as UTI or a tech school" which is what you restated in the following post trying to prove me wrong with my own information. I know what it takes to get certified, I just don't believe you are since you are 17 and don't even know what valve float is or knew the proper name for what you claimed to be certified in. Load up a copy of your certificate and I will gladly admit your certification, but not your knowledge.
spank044 wrote:zerothread?id=391498
To anyone new at this debate, above is the original thread where it started. Please read then contribute your input.
The definition of valve float is as follows-
Definition: A high-rpm engine condition in which the valve lifters lose contact with the cam lobes because the valve springs are not strong enough to overcome the momentum of the various valve train components. The onset of valve float prevents higher-rpm operation. Extended periods of valve float will damage the valve train.
Valve float is an adverse condition which occurs when the poppet valves on an internal combustion engine valvetrain do not remain in contact with the camshaft lobe during the valve closure phase of the cam lobe profile. This reduces engine efficiency and performance and potentially increases engine emissions.
There are two definitions from different places that are the true definition of valve float. Also if you don't believe that 4 links is only ten crankshaft degrees then you need to call up JWT and explain to them how big of a mistake they made with their adjustable cam gears. The second one is so you can make a set of adjustable cam gears to help you learn about cam and crank timing. I have a set on my 11 sec KA-T and I would love to meet up and run you at Martin sometime.
http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...S.PDF
zerothread?id=199829
Next if you read my last post you would see that I stated "approved education such as UTI or a tech school" which is what you restated in the following post trying to prove me wrong with my own information. I know what it takes to get certified, I just don't believe you are since you are 17 and don't even know what valve float is or knew the proper name for what you claimed to be certified in. Load up a copy of your certificate and I will gladly admit your certification, but not your knowledge.
no i am not sayin that or admiting it now put a t in front of hat thats what i ment and buy lagging the springs r not strong enough which means that they wont close fast enough whithc the piston can hit them but wont dammage them if they are bad enough whish intern u have a floting vaulvespank044 wrote:So your admitting you are not an ASE certified Engine Machinist and you don't know what your talking about. After fighting this long, your wrong and you lied, just admit it.
And by valve hat, do you mean the valve seat or the head of the valve? Why is it lagging? What is lagging?