Control arm replacement.

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D1dad
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Car: 2021 Nissan Altima SR
2018 Nissan Rogue Midnight
2009 Nissan Altima SL

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Today while doing some wrenching on my 09 I saw that my ball joint bushings are pretty bad on the front. Looks like 3 bolts and a pickle fork but nothings ever easy. Any tips would be helpful. I just had this thing aligned and you would think they would have said something, but nada a word. Also will I need another alignment? If so I’m gonna try and get that comped. The alignment shop is also a full service shop so I can’t believe they did anything more than align it and go and missed out on a chance to give me a $1k estimate.


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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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D1dad wrote:
Thu Jul 01, 2021 1:51 pm
I just had this thing aligned and you would think they would have said something, but nada a word. Also will I need another alignment? If so I’m gonna try and get that comped. The alignment shop is also a full service shop so I can’t believe they did anything more than align it and go and missed out on a chance to give me a $1k estimate.
It pretty much is 2 bolts and a fork, plus a bigazz prybar. But if they aligned it with bad joints or control arm bushings, it will definitely be misaligned after replacement.

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VStar650CL
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Come to think of it, one quick tip. Bust the ball joint first, but don't try to pop the stud out until after you remove the bushing bolts. Some slide in the bushings makes prying the stud free of the knuckle much easier.

D1dad
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Car: 2021 Nissan Altima SR
2018 Nissan Rogue Midnight
2009 Nissan Altima SL

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Removal looks easy, at least on the YouTube video I watched. Install looks to be a B. I’m gathering up the rears as well. The control arms all have 142k on them so it’s time. I just wish Nissan didn’t make you purchase the entire arm to replace some bushings. Kind of stupid engineering.

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VStar650CL
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D1dad wrote:
Fri Jul 02, 2021 6:14 am
Kind of stupid engineering.
Same old story. Designed to be built by robots and not serviced by people. CAD/CAM software did this to all of us, and now there's no going back. :facepalm2

D1dad
Posts: 281
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2018 Nissan Rogue Midnight
2009 Nissan Altima SL

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At least you get paid to do it lol. I’m doing it because
A=I’m tight
B= I don’t trust anyone to do it properly.
I’m really not looking forward to doing it without a lift. I’m 48 and changed a wheel bearing yesterday and feel like I boxed a kangaroo.

D1dad
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2018 Nissan Rogue Midnight
2009 Nissan Altima SL

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With my crazy travel for work schedule of late I called a local shop this morning who has a mechanic I really trust. I was quoted $800 for labor alone, 2hrs per corner. Yeah right! I’ll start on it tonight and report back whether it would have been easier to pay lol.

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VStar650CL
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D1dad wrote:
Mon Jul 12, 2021 8:45 am
With my crazy travel for work schedule of late I called a local shop this morning who has a mechanic I really trust. I was quoted $800 for labor alone, 2hrs per corner. Yeah right! I’ll start on it tonight and report back whether it would have been easier to pay lol.
Guess he isn't trustworthy anymore. That's awful. :mad:

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VStar650CL
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If you want to embarrass him straight, Motor quotes the fronts at 1.2 for one side, 1.7 for both. Rears are slightly more, 1.9 for one and 2.6 for both. So all 4 should be right about half of what he quoted.

D1dad
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2018 Nissan Rogue Midnight
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He just works there. The owner gave me the 8hr quote. This is the same guy who quoted 6 more hours than a Nissan dealer gave for a 2.5 motor swap. The mechanic in question did work for our family for years until his shop was bought and turned into a used car dealership. Sad because he’s dam good and as honest as they come. If I can knock these out in 5hrs or less using Jack stands I’m gonna call and let them know they need new quoting software.

D1dad
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What a total pita! Everything came apart with no issues, putting back was a different story. Luckily the rears are in perfect shape cause I didn’t wanna wrestle with them for another 3hrs which was how long the fronts took. I learned a few thing along the way just in case I ever have to do it again. First is drop the knuckle from the strut. I did that second and everything went back with no issues. I only did this after I couldn’t get the bolts on the subframe through. Also have a ratchet strap in case it’s close but just won’t go. Now for another alignment as the steering wheel is setting at 2 and seven. The passenger side was completely shot and the drivers probably didn’t need it, but it’s done and done right.

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VStar650CL
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:dblthumb:

D1dad
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It’s back to the drawing board. Although the control arms needed replaced it didn’t do anything to resolve the slight clunk I’m getting from the front going over bumps. Stab links are new and the tie rods seem tight. I used Gabriel ready struts and thats when it started. The only thing left is the inner and outer tie rods. Kinda stumped!

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Do you maybe have slipped locator rings on the front sway bar? If it's a 1-wheel bump and not 2-wheel, then that's a good candidate. The rings are press-fitted and it's very common for them to slip and let the whole bar start floating side-to-side in the bushings.

D1dad
Posts: 281
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2021 5:38 am
Car: 2021 Nissan Altima SR
2018 Nissan Rogue Midnight
2009 Nissan Altima SL

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I assumed I had a faulty link initially so went up to napa and got a new set with the same result. It’s definitely left side and not both.

D1dad
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2018 Nissan Rogue Midnight
2009 Nissan Altima SL

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Wound up being the outer tie rod, even though there was next to no play. I put after market rims on it and the inner and outer tie rods were literally the only suspension parts, front and rear, that weren’t new so I replaced them with moog yesterday and had it aligned. This thing now rides as smooth and as quiet as the 21 that replaced it…almost.
If I could figure out how to upload a pic I’d live to show off my work. The new rims showed the ugly of the 3 yr old rotors and calipers so I replaced those with raybestos element 3’s and Wagner thermoquiet ceramic pads then Bled and flushed the fluid with dot 4. The brakes would shoot the passenger through the windshield if your not used to them assuming they weren’t wearing a seatbelt. I can’t say enough about the element line as far as finish and bite goes. The old/original Ohio calipers saw better days but we’re still functioning fine.


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