Considering the CA

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
Thoughtful_One
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

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I've been considering doing the CA swap for some time now as opposed to KA-t and SR. I had a few questions/comments/concerns to see if the motor is for me or not. The potential car is a 1992 240SX. I've never swapped motors before, but would like to and don't really have any help. Also, since these motors are relatively inexpensive, it would save some money.

I don't plan to exceed the stock boost on the motor. What kind of power can I expect with stock tuning and components?This car will be my daily and since these motors are generally fairly old, are rebuilds necessary? I've never rebuilt a motor, and will not really have the time. Then again, I'll have the KA to play with once it's out. What else is recommended when swapping motors besides clutch, timing belt, waterpump and other smaller things? I wouldn't want to buy a motor then end up having to sink a large sum of money into it to get it running. What do you think?


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mbmbmb23
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Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:39 pm

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175 hp. If you get lucky and get a nice condition motor you can get it running for cheap....but you need the OEM extras like side mount intercooler, igniter chip, ECU, etc. If the motor is in sucky condition you will need to freshen it up which will cost a bit more.

The last thing I would make certain of is the compression of the motor and the condition of the turbo. Anyhow...

-m

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rotorific
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You don't necessarily need to replace the clutch unless you just don't want to touch the motor/transmission after you install it. I would recommend changing all rubber hoses. You can get away with it at first but regardless of mileage its been 15 years since these motors were new and the rubber is not so "rubbery" anymore which will lead to cracking.

You know its funny how I see everyone talking about the cost to install these motors... I think I may have spent 200 dollars total. That was replacement items and fluids with install done by myself and my good friend Alan

Anyways I rambled. -Gabe

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mrzabala
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Car: 93 Nissan 240SX SE Hatch

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First off, the ca is a pretty straight forward swap. I think the only difficulty you will have is extending the harness due to lack of extra harnesses to cut from (unless its your ka but you should sell it rather than hack it up). I recently finished my ca swapped for someone pretty much all my self (had a friend help me remove it from a front clip), and even taking out the stock ka was easy with an engine hoist, and lowering the ca down with many attempts and maneuvering. As for replacing parts. Its alway a good idea to change the basics, like your valve cover gasket, spark plugs, rear and front seal. Others suchs as water pump and oil pump isnt mandatory, but will help you sleep better at night. If your running basic set-ups, its best to just go with a front clip, that way you will hopefully get all te stock parts for a bolt. Good luck wish I could give more advice but Im tired.

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iliketocrash
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it really is an old old motor. and back in their prime they've taken a beating. just do yourself a favor and rebuild the motor. its really is worth it.

Thoughtful_One
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

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That's what I figured. It's just that i don't know how to rebuild a motor and I don't want to, and can't afford to, have it professionally rebuilt.

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Fenvy
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Car: 2005 350Z Base 6MT

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Thoughtful_One wrote:That's what I figured. It's just that i don't know how to rebuild a motor and I don't want to, and can't afford to, have it professionally rebuilt.
which is why you should go with a sr20det or rb series. most of them have much lower milage

BACARDI_DWB
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you should beable to rebuild a motor for right about a grand if you shop right, but then the extra's for hoses and stuff that you still need

Thoughtful_One
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

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Loveless wrote:
which is why you should go with a sr20det or rb series. most of them have much lower milage
Yes, but everyone (almost) does the SR. Also, it's not guaranteed that the motor I purchase will be in great condition. I will initally be spending more with the SR, then will have to spend even more to get it to run if there are problems.

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r34 gtr
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rebuilding an engine isnt very hard, and the CA is small so you can do it on a work bench or something (i did). before i rebuilt mine the largest engine i had rebuilt was a 100cc honda. the CA wasnt any trouble at all. i think all the rebuild parts cost me a few hundred (rings, bearings, gasket kit) so it didnt exactly break the bank. the reason my rebuild cost me a fortune was that i threw down on a gt28 turbo, metal HG, arp bolts/studs, etc. so i could really beat on it. if you have the tools for the swap, you have the tools to rebuild it (and autozone rents the stuff you wont have).

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tyrannix
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old engine builder trick from old engine building hippies=a soda can and some hose clamps can double as a piston ring compressor

(cut corners without cutting corners)

print out the engine mech part of the FSM (at least)follow torque specs, and ring spacingsplastigage your bearings to verify you have the correct size bearingsyou really cant mess it up

CJ

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c-rad
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I had never rebuilt a motor before when I did mine. The only thing that I didn't do myself was clean the head and block, bottom end assembly, and valve job on the head. All in all cost me about $300 at the machine shop. From there I did the rest and 5k miles later it still runs good so I must have done something right.

But in all seriousness, not to sound like a d!ck, but it doesn't sound like you can afford to do a swap right now. I would wait until you had enough money to cover anything that might pop up along the way. I probably spent close to $1000 more than I had initially expected when I picked up the motorset. Things add up FAST.

Oh, and to the person who suggested leaving the motor and transmission attached and not replacing the clutch. That's not a very good idea. If the clutch IS worn out (or at the leasted, rusted to hell) you don't want to find out when you start the car up and try and take it on its maiden voyage. That or having a cracked flywheel come apart and annihilate everything in the engine bay (and possibly your legs). Even if its a stock replacement clutch for $100 from the auto parts store, its better than taking a risk.

Thoughtful_One
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:22 am
Car: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE
2000 Honda Insight

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c-rad wrote:But in all seriousness, not to sound like a d!ck, but it doesn't sound like you can afford to do a swap right now. I would wait until you had enough money to cover anything that might pop up along the way. I probably spent close to $1000 more than I had initially expected when I picked up the motorset. Things add up FAST.
Not at all, you're 100% dead-on. I want to do something this summer where I can work longer hours. This is for all of the guys with functional CA's out there: Is the motor worth it? I've searched and found facts about the engine, but i haven't really found how everyone likes it. Since I will be doing basic things to it first, leaving it mostly stock since I don't know how to tune yet, have you regretted purchasing it? How is power in stock-ish form? I'm still on the fence between KA-t and CA. I've never seen a CA or even a good KA-T in person and it would be pretty cool to do something different.

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tyrannix
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wouldnt trade it for nearly any other 4 cylinder (and i paid a total of $100 for 2 CA engines...... one came with my silvia, the other i scavenged from a wrecked 180sx for $100)

and rebuilding an engine is the best way to learn how to rebuild an engine.

the way i saw it (before i had ever taken an engine or most of a car apart)

if anyone else can rebuild a car/engine/whatever, so can i. never pay somone else to do labor you can do yourself, and learn in the process

do it

(unless you want to match JZx83s with me, then youre still cool )

-CJ

PS> engines that i might trade a built CA for:built AG frankenstein, smallport 4ag head on 7ag (1.8) block with ~8:1 comp forgies (got me hummin from the CA hatin thread... my toyota side is thriving now)

maybe a couple of others (*cough*FJ*cough*)


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float_6969
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In all honesty though the fully counterweighted crank isn't going to be that much of an issue until you get up into the extreme revs.


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