Welcome aboard, Jack. I have several old Datsuns, including a 67.5 1600.
Ghetto Jack wrote:1. Realistically, can these cars function as a summer daily driver? Are they as reliable as an old Z or a 510?
They're the predecessor to the Z. They're incredibly simplistic, and anything that goes wrong is pretty non-technical to fix. I drive mine a ton during the winter here in AZ. The R16 (1600) is bulletproof.
Ghetto Jack wrote:2. How scarce and expensive are stock replacement parts for things that typically go wrong on older cars, or that need replacement over time? (Starters, alternators, brake parts, bulbs, fuses, clutches, radiators, hoses, batteries, belts, water pumps, filters, etc.)
Not too terrible. Lots of parts still available. Stuff that's NOT easily procured: Ball joints.
Ghetto Jack wrote:3. If I buy one that has good compression, doesn't overheat, and doesn't burn or leak oil or coolant, and if I maintain it properly, can I reasonably expect to put 20,000-30,000 miles a year on it and only have to replace the above items as they fail? How susceptible are these cars to catastrophic engine or transmission failure?
Absolutely. I've started up an R16 that had sat for nearly 10 years in a wrecked Roadster. Fuel and spark, man. Can't kill that engine. Transmissions are still pretty easy to find, but you shouldn't need one - They're not a hard rebuild IF yours goes south.
At present, I'm having a high-strung stroker motor built (.030 over, U20 crank, 2000 cc) out of my 1600 for less than a grand. Should be 140hp (up from 90 stock) and should SCREAM.
Ghetto Jack wrote:4. How well do these cars fare on long trips? I'm a small guy, so the small size of the car isn't a factor.
Drove mine non-stop from North LA to Phoenix. Not the most ergonomically comfy car ever built, but if you care about that, buy a Camry.
Ghetto Jack wrote:5. Besides rust, what else should I look for before I buy one?
That's the biggest part. Aside from that, BRAKES. The front calipers on the Roadster are a PITA of they haven't been maintained... if the brakes work (stop the car firmly and straight), you're good...
Buy the BEST one you can afford - Better than trying to salvage a turd. You can get a real good one in driver condition for $5-7K easily.
Steer clear of the SRL311 (2.0) as the U20 is notoriously temperamental and expensive to repair... The 2-liter is rarer and more expensive, without any real benefit (other than a 5-speed and more power).
1967.5 and prior is a "low-windshield car". Better-looking (IMO), but less plentiful. 68-70 are high-windshield... More safety features, more emissions crap, but plentiful and common for parts.