Considering buying an SPL311 as a summer daily driver. Opinions?

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Ghetto Jack
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R

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I'm tired of having my Galant VR4 as a "toy". It gets 19MPG on premium, is impossible and expensive to find parts for (even compared to the 1970's era Datsuns and Toyotas I've owned), and as much as I adore driving it, it doesn't make sense to have a car that I can't afford to drive often.

I've always loved old-school Datsuns, Toyotas, Mazdas, etc. I've owned a 260Z, 280Z, 510 wagon, not to mention several rwd toyotas and FB RX7s. I like the idea of a car that's fun, economical, attractive, and reliable. I do have a few questions about SPL311 and SRL311 roadsters:

1. Realistically, can these cars function as a summer daily driver? Are they as reliable as an old Z or a 510?

2. How scarce and expensive are stock replacement parts for things that typically go wrong on older cars, or that need replacement over time? (Starters, alternators, brake parts, bulbs, fuses, clutches, radiators, hoses, batteries, belts, water pumps, filters, etc.)

3. If I buy one that has good compression, doesn't overheat, and doesn't burn or leak oil or coolant, and if I maintain it properly, can I reasonably expect to put 20,000-30,000 miles a year on it and only have to replace the above items as they fail? How susceptible are these cars to catastrophic engine or transmission failure?

4. How well do these cars fare on long trips? I'm a small guy, so the small size of the car isn't a factor.

5. Besides rust, what else should I look for before I buy one?


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AZhitman
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Posts: 71061
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
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Welcome aboard, Jack. I have several old Datsuns, including a 67.5 1600.
Ghetto Jack wrote:1. Realistically, can these cars function as a summer daily driver? Are they as reliable as an old Z or a 510?
They're the predecessor to the Z. They're incredibly simplistic, and anything that goes wrong is pretty non-technical to fix. I drive mine a ton during the winter here in AZ. The R16 (1600) is bulletproof.
Ghetto Jack wrote:2. How scarce and expensive are stock replacement parts for things that typically go wrong on older cars, or that need replacement over time? (Starters, alternators, brake parts, bulbs, fuses, clutches, radiators, hoses, batteries, belts, water pumps, filters, etc.)
Not too terrible. Lots of parts still available. Stuff that's NOT easily procured: Ball joints.
Ghetto Jack wrote:3. If I buy one that has good compression, doesn't overheat, and doesn't burn or leak oil or coolant, and if I maintain it properly, can I reasonably expect to put 20,000-30,000 miles a year on it and only have to replace the above items as they fail? How susceptible are these cars to catastrophic engine or transmission failure?
Absolutely. I've started up an R16 that had sat for nearly 10 years in a wrecked Roadster. Fuel and spark, man. Can't kill that engine. Transmissions are still pretty easy to find, but you shouldn't need one - They're not a hard rebuild IF yours goes south.

At present, I'm having a high-strung stroker motor built (.030 over, U20 crank, 2000 cc) out of my 1600 for less than a grand. Should be 140hp (up from 90 stock) and should SCREAM.
Ghetto Jack wrote:4. How well do these cars fare on long trips? I'm a small guy, so the small size of the car isn't a factor.
Drove mine non-stop from North LA to Phoenix. Not the most ergonomically comfy car ever built, but if you care about that, buy a Camry.
Ghetto Jack wrote:5. Besides rust, what else should I look for before I buy one?
That's the biggest part. Aside from that, BRAKES. The front calipers on the Roadster are a PITA of they haven't been maintained... if the brakes work (stop the car firmly and straight), you're good...

Buy the BEST one you can afford - Better than trying to salvage a turd. You can get a real good one in driver condition for $5-7K easily.

Steer clear of the SRL311 (2.0) as the U20 is notoriously temperamental and expensive to repair... The 2-liter is rarer and more expensive, without any real benefit (other than a 5-speed and more power).

1967.5 and prior is a "low-windshield car". Better-looking (IMO), but less plentiful. 68-70 are high-windshield... More safety features, more emissions crap, but plentiful and common for parts.

Ghetto Jack
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:38 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R

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Thank you very much for your answers, they've definitely helped a lot.

I've found one running for $2500 with just a couple little surface rust spots due to a very bad (and now chipping) paint job, and one small hole that looks to be from a clogged drain. But hey, it looks nice from ten feet away. Now I just gotta sell my GVR4.

It's not cosmetically perfect, but I don't want it to be. I plan to road trip all summer, every summer in it, so my plans for it are basically to stop the rust before it spreads, and drive the piss out of it.

Does it use 4x114.3 wheels like most older Datsuns? If I want to put some more aggressive tires on it, what's a good wheel size and offset to run? I was thinking 280ZX Turbo swazis or some random, cool, used old-school wheels.

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AZhitman
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Posts: 71061
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 S13, 92 SE-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

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Yep - 4x114.3, but a big center bore (73mm, I think).

Old Z wheels are great for a Roadster, as long as the offset is ok. I prefer my steelies and hubcaps...

My Roadster: http://www.nicoclub.com/ROTM/rotmsept08.shtml

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gboone
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:37 am
Car: 1970 Datsun 2000 Roadster

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You can find a ton of info on this website: http://www.311s.org which has its own forum for Datsun roadsters. It's THE most popular site for info and discussion. There's even a forum on it titled Wheels and Tires No A/C available for summer heat tho.
Modified by gboone at 12:19 PM 2/15/2010


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