Confirm bad MAF sensor

[ffmpr604]

I have been having trouble with my 2007 Versa's RPM' bouncing from 2,000 to 2,500 when put on a load. I wanted help from you guys to confirm a bad MAF sensor. I pulled the sensor out and one side is made of black plastic, the other side is what appears to be stainless steel. On the stainless side there is a lot of corrosion. Could this be the problem? It doesn’t look right to me, but wanted to confirm that and that it could cause my problem.

Thanks,

[BBISHOPPCM]

ignore this
Modified by BBISHOPPCM at 9:57 PM 1/18/2009

[BBISHOPPCM]

Alright, I apologize for the above post. I did some research, and I see that these kits really do exist. Their benefits are iffy... especially on a modern engine. I am curious, how did you alter the readings given off by the MAF to "trick" the computer to compensate for the additional air (hydrogen) introduced after the mass airflow sensor? Otherwise, this is really a "vacuum leak," and will definitely throw off the mixture. Also, how certain are you that your hydrogen generator is putting out a steady stream of hydrogen that is properly diffused in the intake air, and is properly metered in the proper ratio (in relation to the throttle position?) Also, how can you verify the purity of the hydrogen produced? There is a very simple device you can make using a pickle jar, water, two copper electrodes, and a 30vdc power supply that makes "hydrogen," however, this isn't pure hydrogen, and the flammability is totally unregulated (it can either explode, or just enhance the flame from a candle).

[fjwagner]

Alright, I apologize for the above post. I did some research, and I see that these kits really do exist. Their benefits are iffy... especially on a modern engine. I am curious, how did you alter the readings given off by the MAF to "trick" the computer to compensate for the additional air (hydrogen) introduced after the mass airflow sensor? Otherwise, this is really a "vacuum leak," and will definitely throw off the mixture. Also, how certain are you that your hydrogen generator is putting out a steady stream of hydrogen that is properly diffused in the intake air, and is properly metered in the proper ratio (in relation to the throttle position?) Also, how can you verify the purity of the hydrogen produced? There is a very simple device you can make using a pickle jar, water, two copper electrodes, and a 30vdc power supply that makes "hydrogen," however, this isn't pure hydrogen, and the flammability is totally unregulated (it can either explode, or just enhance the flame from a candle).

really confused. There must be a post missing as I do not think this reply applies to the OP.

[Moghedian]

really confused. There must be a post missing as I do not think this reply applies to the OP.

zer...-down

[BBISHOPPCM]

I erased that post after writing it... it was really mean...

[ffmpr604]

The device is called a MAP/MAF enhancer and allows you to regulate the voltage signal comming from the sensor. You make adjustments as you go, one for city and one for hwy. There is no way to 100% regulate the flow of hydrogen comming out, however, based on the generator you have they produce a fairly consistent amount. Also, the generator is just seperating the hydrogen and oxygen in water producing HHO gas. You add an electrolite in the water like KOH (potassium hydraxide) to accelerate the process. Not only do you get an increase in mpg, but eliminate almost all emmissions. It is a safe install for the most part, I made the mistake of putting the intake of the HHO gas right on the MAF sensor. I think some of the water from the generator bubbled over and got onto the sensor, or mist. Dumb install looking at it now. - The MAF should be nice and clean and the stainless side right? - and it could cause my problem? - I can't think of anything else.

Thanks

[shiryu0]

without the ECU knowing whats going on youre gonna be running into problems............

[BBISHOPPCM]

I do know that certain forms of hydrogen can cause corrosion of certain metals in certain conditions. Are you sure that's stainless, and not machined aluminum? Those components should NEVER corrode. Your best bet is to remove the entire intake assembly and examine all metal components (throttle body and intake ports on head) for corrosion. You'll need to drain some coolant first, about half the radiator to be semi-exact.