Cone filter vs. drop-in replacement filter

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#1 Sailor Scout
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It looks like there are 2 different opinions on what kind of air filters to use for the J30.

The intake design is unique (it reminds me of an elephant's trunk *lol*), but good. I think it's far away enough to not catch engine heat.

So with this in mind, what's the difference between using a cone filter & a drop-in filter with the airbox? I thought about a cone filter for the J30 I may get (K&N, of course), but now I'm not so sure. I don't expect big performance gains, just enough to make my money's worth. & what about a heat shield for those who use cone filters on their J30s?


Ebbtide
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Go with the drop in. The K and N seems to gunk up the MAF after 30 days or so and I get poor performance. The cone might work better on some cars, but not the J30. Lots of time and money was spent trying to get the most out of that engine and car design. If you do a search I think you will find that most members agree.

kbflip02
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#1 Sailor Scout wrote:It looks like there are 2 different opinions on what kind of air filters to use for the J30.

The intake design is unique (it reminds me of an elephant's trunk *lol*), but good. I think it's far away enough to not catch engine heat.

So with this in mind, what's the difference between using a cone filter & a drop-in filter with the airbox? I thought about a cone filter for the J30 I may get (K&N, of course), but now I'm not so sure. I don't expect big performance gains, just enough to make my money's worth. & what about a heat shield for those who use cone filters on their J30s?
personally ive used both and have switched from my K&N drop in filter to a Jim Wolf Technology Popcharger which is basically an oversized cone filter...the performance gains of the drop in VS the cone are very close...if you dont plan on doing too much @ the moment go with the drop in...with my cone i have a section cut out underneath where the airbox went w/ a scoop running out the bottom of the car....

as far as a heat shield is concerened w/ the section cut out i have no need for a heat shield as it allows more air to circulate freely and the filter itself is so far from the engine that its hardly noticeable

Victor
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If anyone wants to ruin their engine and live in Southern California I have a K&N reverse conical filter and a cast aluminum adapter to mount it on a J30 you could have for $20. I took it off my J30T and replaced it with the original filter and air filter box. I threw this in the garbage but retrieved it when someone posted it was worth something, even though I think its a waste. For one thing you have to buy a kit for $15 to clean it and reoil it. Plus its supposed to let 3 times as much dust into your engine until it clogs up. My engine oil was pitch black when I was using it.Plus some K&N filters will not pass smog so if you use one keep the old parts for the smog inspection.

driverdriver
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I have a K&N drop in filter I've used for many years. I've always gone easy on the K&N solution and have never had a problem. Originally I thought I had a placebo effect, when I noticed a bit better fuel economy and better pick up off the line, so for a couple of weeks I dropped back in a new paper filter just to be sure and re did my calculations. It was no placebo effect. My J runs better on the K&N.

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An engineer or scientist would measure the restriction from Earth's supercharger [the 14.7 psi pressure] thru filter to the front of MAF at torque peak rpm and HP peak [WOT shift rpm].

Designers use to use no more than 1.7% restriction [Q and J] or a max of 7.0 inches water column. On newer engines [G35 and M45] they have limited themselves to 1.0%.

All a balancing act between losing 1% per 11F in hotter air injestion and losing pressure from convoluted air restriction.

Choice of filter media is usually miniscule since the air flow into even a 4.5 liter engine is tiny.

A MANOMETER and an electronic temperature probe with data log storage are your 2 best friends.

Victor
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I read a report where I think it was consumers reports was trying to simulate a clogged air filter and covered up half the filter with duct tape and couldn't detect any noticible change in performance or gas mileage. So you already have enough air flow unless you were doing some major mods, and would be wasting your money to put anything better in than you already have.

gr8scott72
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#1 Sailor Scout wrote:What's the difference between using a cone filter & a drop-in filter with the airbox?
Noise.

naladude911
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not meaning to jack your thread, but i think the filter is ruining my MPG. See, thursday i had a full tank, and i drove about what, like 4 miles and the gauge went down to the next nautch before F. Now its Friday, and I have only driven last Sunday (3 miles), and this Thursday (3 miles), and i have about just over half a tank. I use up so much gas, its like getting 10 mpg. How long does it take you for your lever to move? Takes me like 15 mins

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naladude911 wrote:not meaning to jack your thread, but i think the filter is ruining my MPG. See, thursday i had a full tank, and i drove about what, like 4 miles and the gauge went down to the next nautch before F. Now its Friday, and I have only driven last Sunday (3 miles), and this Thursday (3 miles), and i have about just over half a tank. I use up so much gas, its like getting 10 mpg. How long does it take you for your lever to move? Takes me like 15 mins
You aren't jacking the thread, so no worries. =)

I'm not sure how your filter is decreasing your mileage on your J. Usually, the MPG doesn't change much when you have an aftermarket filter, cone or drop-in. That problem sounds like either a fuel pump or a heavy right foot. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those are my 2 guesses.

I've been using drop-ins from K&N for my last 2 cars (1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 & 2007 Honda Civic LX). It didn't help the Cougar any, mainly because of the weight of the car itself (3600+ lbs, including the subwoofers & amps) & because it was being pushed by a weak V6. However, it did help my Civic a lot. No HP or torque gains, but the throttle response is much better. I was just curious on what the benefits would be if I used one on a J, because I know people that use both methods; cone & drop-in.

naladude911
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heavy foot = bad gas, and ya i have a heavy foot. Next time im at full, il take a pic what happens after 3 miles, and see if its what u guys get.

gr8scott72
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naladude911 wrote:heavy foot = bad gas, and ya i have a heavy foot. Next time im at full, il take a pic what happens after 3 miles, and see if its what u guys get.
You will not be able to tell what your car is doing by looking at the fuel gauge while you are driving. It's not accurate enough to tell on small incraments.

The only way is to keep track of how much fuel it takes to fill it up and how far you went on that tank.

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naladude911 wrote:not meaning to jack your thread, but i think the filter is ruining my MPG. See, thursday i had a full tank, and i drove about what, like 4 miles and the gauge went down to the next nautch before F. Now its Friday, and I have only driven last Sunday (3 miles), and this Thursday (3 miles), and i have about just over half a tank. I use up so much gas, its like getting 10 mpg. How long does it take you for your lever to move? Takes me like 15 mins
Oh, & check your fuel injectors. If you have dirty injectors, your MPG will decrease. Once again, I had that to occur in my '94 Mercury Cougar. Not only will dirty injectors kill your gas mileage, it will kill your performance, too.


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